P01118 Code won't clear after replacing ECT
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2018
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From: Blacklick, Ohio
P01118 Code won't clear after replacing ECT
Hi all,
I have searched high and low for an answer to my question but have had no luck so I am asking here. I have a 13 Road Glide that started having all the typical symptoms of a bad ECT. I pulled the codes and got the P01118 code. So far I have replaced the ECT and checked the ECT wiring for any issues. Unfortunately it will not let me clear the code. I know the process for clearing codes but for whatever reason it will not clear. The bike is still on the jack in my garage and I have not had an opportunity to get it hot enough to see if the issue reoccurs. The bike starts right up and seems to actually run a little better than before but again I have not been able to get it hot yet to see if it starts running badly again while at temp. From what I have been able to find, the P01118 code is only for the ECT issue. Does anyone have any recommendations or advice?
I have searched high and low for an answer to my question but have had no luck so I am asking here. I have a 13 Road Glide that started having all the typical symptoms of a bad ECT. I pulled the codes and got the P01118 code. So far I have replaced the ECT and checked the ECT wiring for any issues. Unfortunately it will not let me clear the code. I know the process for clearing codes but for whatever reason it will not clear. The bike is still on the jack in my garage and I have not had an opportunity to get it hot enough to see if the issue reoccurs. The bike starts right up and seems to actually run a little better than before but again I have not been able to get it hot yet to see if it starts running badly again while at temp. From what I have been able to find, the P01118 code is only for the ECT issue. Does anyone have any recommendations or advice?
It's the Engine Temp Sensor not a coolant temp sensor.
P0118 means open/high which means the circuit is either open (a wire is broken) or the sensor is bad - and in the most rarest of cases an internal ECM problem. The sensor can be checked with an ohmmeter (buy the factory manual) and the wires and connections should all be checked. Common wire breakage points are where the wire enters the sensor connector right at the rubber grommet (breaks inside the insulation) and damaged pins or sockets from careless work. Pull on the wires where they enter the sensor connector - if the wire is broken inside the insulation, the wire will feel soft or rubbery.
It says High/Open because when the circuit is open the Analog to Digital Convertor inside the ECM sees the 5V reference signal which exceeds the high end of the threshold the sensor should return (off hand probably 4.6V but that's just off hand)
If you cannot clear the code, the problem is current and you have not yet found the fault.
Troubleshooting this circuit is also in the factory electrical diagnostics manual as well.
P0118 means open/high which means the circuit is either open (a wire is broken) or the sensor is bad - and in the most rarest of cases an internal ECM problem. The sensor can be checked with an ohmmeter (buy the factory manual) and the wires and connections should all be checked. Common wire breakage points are where the wire enters the sensor connector right at the rubber grommet (breaks inside the insulation) and damaged pins or sockets from careless work. Pull on the wires where they enter the sensor connector - if the wire is broken inside the insulation, the wire will feel soft or rubbery.
It says High/Open because when the circuit is open the Analog to Digital Convertor inside the ECM sees the 5V reference signal which exceeds the high end of the threshold the sensor should return (off hand probably 4.6V but that's just off hand)
If you cannot clear the code, the problem is current and you have not yet found the fault.
Troubleshooting this circuit is also in the factory electrical diagnostics manual as well.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Jun 6, 2018 at 07:37 AM.
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 20
Likes: 3
From: Blacklick, Ohio
Hi all,
I have searched high and low for an answer to my question but have had no luck so I am asking here. I have a 13 Road Glide that started having all the typical symptoms of a bad ECT. I pulled the codes and got the P01118 code. So far I have replaced the ECT and checked the ECT wiring for any issues. Unfortunately it will not let me clear the code. I know the process for clearing codes but for whatever reason it will not clear. The bike is still on the jack in my garage and I have not had an opportunity to get it hot enough to see if the issue reoccurs. The bike starts right up and seems to actually run a little better than before but again I have not been able to get it hot yet to see if it starts running badly again while at temp. From what I have been able to find, the P01118 code is only for the ECT issue. Does anyone have any recommendations or advice?
I have searched high and low for an answer to my question but have had no luck so I am asking here. I have a 13 Road Glide that started having all the typical symptoms of a bad ECT. I pulled the codes and got the P01118 code. So far I have replaced the ECT and checked the ECT wiring for any issues. Unfortunately it will not let me clear the code. I know the process for clearing codes but for whatever reason it will not clear. The bike is still on the jack in my garage and I have not had an opportunity to get it hot enough to see if the issue reoccurs. The bike starts right up and seems to actually run a little better than before but again I have not been able to get it hot yet to see if it starts running badly again while at temp. From what I have been able to find, the P01118 code is only for the ECT issue. Does anyone have any recommendations or advice?
It's the Engine Temp Sensor not a coolant temp sensor.
P0118 means open/high which means the circuit is either open (a wire is broken) or the sensor is bad - and in the most rarest of cases an internal ECM problem. The sensor can be checked with an ohmmeter (buy the factory manual) and the wires and connections should all be checked. Common wire breakage points are where the wire enters the sensor connector right at the rubber grommet (breaks inside the insulation) and damaged pins or sockets from careless work. Pull on the wires where they enter the sensor connector - if the wire is broken inside the insulation, the wire will feel soft or rubbery.
It says High/Open because when the circuit is open the Analog to Digital Convertor inside the ECM sees the 5V reference signal which exceeds the high end of the threshold the sensor should return (off hand probably 4.6V but that's just off hand)
If you cannot clear the code, the problem is current and you have not yet found the fault.
Troubleshooting this circuit is also in the factory electrical diagnostics manual as well.
P0118 means open/high which means the circuit is either open (a wire is broken) or the sensor is bad - and in the most rarest of cases an internal ECM problem. The sensor can be checked with an ohmmeter (buy the factory manual) and the wires and connections should all be checked. Common wire breakage points are where the wire enters the sensor connector right at the rubber grommet (breaks inside the insulation) and damaged pins or sockets from careless work. Pull on the wires where they enter the sensor connector - if the wire is broken inside the insulation, the wire will feel soft or rubbery.
It says High/Open because when the circuit is open the Analog to Digital Convertor inside the ECM sees the 5V reference signal which exceeds the high end of the threshold the sensor should return (off hand probably 4.6V but that's just off hand)
If you cannot clear the code, the problem is current and you have not yet found the fault.
Troubleshooting this circuit is also in the factory electrical diagnostics manual as well.
I already replaced the sensor. I checked all the wiring and did not find any issues. I check the wiring again and see if I can find anything.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 14,261
Likes: 15,495
From: Tulsa
How are you checking the circuit? Visually, or are you using a DVOM and testing the circuit from the sensor to the module connector? Can you string a temp/dummy wire and see if the dtc resets when you do that?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,786
Likes: 7,941
From: poway
Ed's suggestion of tugging on the wires going to the connector is a good one.. I've found a lot of busted wires that way. You have to love the statement, " I checked all the wiring and could not find anything" Did you ohm out the wires between the sensor and the ecm? Pull the main fuse and give that a shot. A simple check would be to measure the voltage across the sensor with the power on. IIRC it should be about a 1-2 volt drop. If it's 0 volts you got a problem.
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