I thought i heard a different sound last week. Went on a 1200 mile 3 day ride. Around 800 miles in it was worse. By the time i got home it was really noisy. 2009 ultra all stock. 42000 miles. I change all oils every 3-4k miles. I have never done this job before. Finished tonight 5 hrs total. Had access to jims puller snd installer. Pic of inner race below

 

Both the compensator bolt and clutch pak nut were tight but not overly difficult

i had a really good look at the compensator and clutch pak. No signs of wear at all it looked good. I cleaned the springs inside the compensator all okay nothing broken

I fabricated a spacer with two washers prior to pushing new race on. I think on the 2009 there is a step on the shaft. It felt like it. After is i was up against my spacers i remived them and tried to give a little more was not going to move

once i reinstalled the inner primary you can see in the picture the race oiling oil for the inner race. I filled that cavity a couple of times to see how quickly the oil drains. If you are getting oil here and the passage is clear i am pretty sure the race is well lubed. That passage is a good size i think it would take a lot to plug it

i struggled a bit getting the drivetrain reinstalled as one piece. It has to be pretty square in order to slide on

took it for a ride got up to temperature and it sounds brand new. Whew

 

Did you check the splines that the sliding cam runs on? They ware and that is where you get the rattle.

I also open up the oil passage with a center drill or countersink. I suspect that the oil that hits the rib misses the hole.

 

BTW When installing the new roller bearing, it's good to make sure that the snap-ring is installed properly with the gap at the hole.

 

I like the idea of a in dent for that oil hole. Good idea. I did have a real good look at all the parts of that comp and shaft and springs. I fully expected to find something. I opened the primary two years ago just to have a look. I am thinking about putting in a hayden tensioner this winter. That chain feels tight i just feel its to tight. 2009 does have hydraulic cam tensioners and last winter i did open the cam chest and changed the shies and cam bearings. The outer shoe was 50% worn and the inner looked brand new

 

I want to add a couple more comments. Its just been now where i have been able to put some miles on since the change. There was a slight vibration before the bearing change that i was starting to think it was old age creeping up on the bike. Nope. It is friggin amazing how it has smoothed out. It is literally as tight as brand new.

Also in case you are wondering all in it cost me about 140.00 to do the change.

 

My comment would be to toss the stock auto-slacker adjuster away and replace it with Baker's attitude adjuster or something like it. My 09 ultra auto-adjuster got my chain so tight I had to replace all primary bearings, trans mainshaft and that bearing plus had to do a complete trans rebuild. Baker's item was the best 120.00 spent. Tell them you are a member of HD forums and get a 10% discount.

 

Yep, I mounted a new bearing yesterday, and saw the snapring would block the oil channel, not placing the snapring gap over the hole. I believe also it is good to not to block the oil channel like this. Somewhat puzzling that this is mentioned neither in the Harley manual nor in the Jim's Tools instructions. But perhaps I missed it.

 

I just did the same to my Dyna 2006 with 12000 miles on it. Also installed the Hayden tensioner. The race was close to the gear and I had to cut it with a dremel. Now the bad IPB noice is gone and changing gear is easy and smooth. Hopefully the Hayden will be easier to the bearing than the Harley tensioner. And hopefully the sound will not come back. In that case all credits to Hayden.

 

My Harley factory service manual mentions the following:
See Figure 5-20. Retaining ring (1) must be oriented as shown to prevent blocking of oil passage (2). Install retaining ring to lock position of bearing in bore. Verify that the ring is fully seated in the groove and is in proper orientation.



Why would the instructions included with the Jim's tool mention how to orient a snap ring, especially when the tool had nothing to do with installation of the snap ring?