new welder
If you can afford the welder, getting power f/ use is the easy part.
My brother wants me to get a multi process machine to tig with.
The truth of the matter is that 110v welders will leave you wanting. For steel, you can get away with a 110v machine if you're TIG welding or stick welding up to about 1/4" material, but beyond that it won't have the horsepower to perform. And if you want to weld aluminum, 220v is absolutely necessary, I don't care what the brochures say.
If all you've run so far is self shielded flux core (FCAW-S) then you should be pleasantly surprised with a MIG welder. Self shielded wire is used by pretty much nobody outside the pile drivers union, it's not well suited to a fabrication environment, which I assume is what you're trying to do.
As for manufacturers, you can't go wrong with either Lincoln or Miller. I would stay away from the lesser known brands. The market is dominated by these two, for good reason. You'll have to decide what type of work you want to do, and that will dictate which processes you need, which will in turn determine which welder would be the best choice. I'll tell you right now, you won't be able to find one that does everything. You can find multiprocess machines that will do a lot, but they aren't a one stop shop.
If you want to weld anything substantial forget the 110VAC machines -- these are very limited. And if you're teaching yourself to weld by watching YouTube videos, a cheap welder is not helping. If you do get good at it you'll outgrow them in no time. As Ak dyna said, Lincoln & Miller are top of the line machines (I own a few of each) and I'll add Hobart to that list. I had one Hobart multi-process I welded with for 40 years before selling it to make room for a square wave TIG -- buy quality equipment and it will last a lifetime. Stay away from the off brands and China crap -- waste of $$. If this is a hobby you love, spend the $$ and get good equipment.
110 or 220 really does not matter energy wise, tit-for-tat. 220 will see less fluctuations on the line current which sometimes feeds through into the arc. a real issue for cheap units and notorious on cracker boxes. not to say it will not happen on a 220 as my lincoln 180t blew the circuit board but then again, the 220 is split off so 110 feeds the control and 220 the transformer.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
110 or 220 really does not matter energy wise, tit-for-tat. 220 will see less fluctuations on the line current which sometimes feeds through into the arc. a real issue for cheap units and notorious on cracker boxes. not to say it will not happen on a 220 as my lincoln 180t blew the circuit board but then again, the 220 is split off so 110 feeds the control and 220 the transformer.
since the two legs are out of phase, return currents are inter-twined.
to answer the ?, no!
the 110 is taped off the 220 connection and sent to the control board where it is converted to 12vdc to control things like relay,spool feed and gun trigger.
i would post the schematic but my junkified epson printer is clogged up again so i cannot make a post-able jpeg image from the pdf.
lincoln has great support but their lower end migs work when they work but have issues. just like hd, they engineer to operate at cheapest cost. you can rebuild the boards with higher capacity components. for what it does, should have lasted a life time, never more that a minute at a time if that as it only takes seconds to attach a bell crank to a shaft. small whip beats the huge spool gun for the miller, which i will use if i decide to make welded frames, cheaper and quicker but leaves the frame as not repairable like a fastened frame and i had one come through the shop that was used as a weapon in a bar fight, never say never, alcohol, men and women do not mix very well, i guess the guitar was better than a gun, gone the days of just duking it out!?!










