Drag pipe install questions
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 5
From: Florida
Thanks for your input, but…
I appreciate everyone’s insight. But I’ve done my research and I’m aware of the result of drag pipes. I’d just like a little insight into the preferred hardware for mounting the pipes to the crossover. I’d rather not use cheap hardware store nuts and bolts. Is there a particular set of hardware you guys and gals like?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 8,001
Likes: 6,905
From: NC
I appreciate everyone’s insight. But I’ve done my research and I’m aware of the result of drag pipes. I’d just like a little insight into the preferred hardware for mounting the pipes to the crossover. I’d rather not use cheap hardware store nuts and bolts. Is there a particular set of hardware you guys and gals like?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,064
Likes: 1,003
what you got is a seat of the pants install, i cannot do it from the key board. i mounted a rubber mount highwayman to a rigid and had to make all the brackets custom, i plugged off the O2 ports with stainless plugs. as far as fasteners go, i like stainless.
BUT be fore warned, when it comes to exhaust and high heat, stainless can gall and thread lock, NOT GOOD. make sure you use a GOOD thread lube, i use desco 220, goes from flame bucket of launch to cold of space. if you burn it it turns to graphite. i learned to use brass for headers since it does not rust, easy to drill out if needed and even if you thread lock it by galling, it will usually still separate but destroyed. a lot easier when forced to use a nut splitter to boot.
BUT be fore warned, when it comes to exhaust and high heat, stainless can gall and thread lock, NOT GOOD. make sure you use a GOOD thread lube, i use desco 220, goes from flame bucket of launch to cold of space. if you burn it it turns to graphite. i learned to use brass for headers since it does not rust, easy to drill out if needed and even if you thread lock it by galling, it will usually still separate but destroyed. a lot easier when forced to use a nut splitter to boot.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 5
From: Florida
oh, I’ll be using the kit. Sorry I may have worded it weird.
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 14
Likes: 5
From: Florida
what you got is a seat of the pants install, i cannot do it from the key board. i mounted a rubber mount highwayman to a rigid and had to make all the brackets custom, i plugged off the O2 ports with stainless plugs. as far as fasteners go, i like stainless.
BUT be fore warned, when it comes to exhaust and high heat, stainless can gall and thread lock, NOT GOOD. make sure you use a GOOD thread lube, i use desco 220, goes from flame bucket of launch to cold of space. if you burn it it turns to graphite. i learned to use brass for headers since it does not rust, easy to drill out if needed and even if you thread lock it by galling, it will usually still separate but destroyed. a lot easier when forced to use a nut splitter to boot.
BUT be fore warned, when it comes to exhaust and high heat, stainless can gall and thread lock, NOT GOOD. make sure you use a GOOD thread lube, i use desco 220, goes from flame bucket of launch to cold of space. if you burn it it turns to graphite. i learned to use brass for headers since it does not rust, easy to drill out if needed and even if you thread lock it by galling, it will usually still separate but destroyed. a lot easier when forced to use a nut splitter to boot.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,064
Likes: 1,003
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Joined: Aug 2008
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https://socousa.com/product/chemola-...m-o-plate-220/
split lock washers are just spacers. just like double nutting just takes up thread space.
split lock washers are just spacers. just like double nutting just takes up thread space.