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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
Once removed, replace it with a torx. Standard on newer models and much less prone to stripping. If others find themselves in the same predicament, use a small sharp chisel and try to move the bolt head in the direction of loosen as rh8234 mentioned above, or if you are unwilling to try that, I will hammer a torx into the hex bore and try that.
In my opinion Torx heads are worse. I had problems with Torx head screws. Thats why I switched to hex. I even ruined the Torx socket. No matter what kind of screws you use, I recommend replacing them with new ones everytime you remove the derby cover to change the gear oil.
In my opinion Torx heads are worse. I had problems with Torx head screws. Thats why I switched to hex. I even ruined the Torx socket. No matter what kind of screws you use, I recommend replacing them with new ones everytime you remove the derby cover to change the gear oil.
Just a heads up here, those torx bolts that most people end up messing up are a #27 and most kits do not have that size in it and only have a #25 which will fit but a little bit sloppy making you think you have the right torx for the job in any event. Without realizing this some may go ahead and use the #25 and end up stripping out the head without realizing what they did wrong and cuss at the bike, the bolts, the torx and everything else too when in fact they used the wrong torx socket to begin with.
The dirby cover, hand controlls and a lot of other servicable torx bolts are #27. Get the right size and your life will be much easier/
It's all in the DIY in the proper area under transmission/clutch and primary related
When you break a tap off in a bolt, you then have to deal with the rockwell hardness of tool steel. The best way to remove the problem bolt at this point is to use a tiny carbide bit (1/8") shaft, with a small round head. It's best if you have an air die grinder, but a dremel tool will work, just slower. Just grind the head of the bolt completely off, remove the cover, and remove the headless bolt with vise grip pliers.
Bob53.... Try this when you put in the new hardware...
Anti-sieze the threads on the screws before you install them.
5k later, when you are servicing the primary, take a T-27 socket and rap it with a hammer (Just not hard enough to break the cover or primary), then unscrew it. Works like a champ.
Any one else that has a hard time getting them out, use a little heat and a hand impact to break them loose....
It always helps to use a little prevention when replacing any screws or bolts. After removing run a bottom tap in the hole to clean it up. This is a must after you remove the factory stock screws with the sealer on the threads and are replacing them with new.
I might have been a little hasty in recommending a tap for cleaning threads. Use only if no other tool is available. The best method is to use a restorer or a chaser if you have them available. These are configured to only remove nick, burrs and restore threads without removing metal and making the hole loose. I'm glad that I corrected myself before I got beat up by the sharpies.
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