any one got any tricks on how to remove the 10/32x1/2 long button head bolt that holds the clutch control switch housing together? when I was trying to remove it >the allen head got stripped out > now the allen wrench just spins around in the hole>>>this is on an 89 electraglide thanks to all for a reply

 

Drill it and use either an E-Z Out or a Drill-Out. Sucks to be you right now. Small diameter fasteners are the worst.

 

just had a similar problem on one of my fork pinch bolts. broke an EZ out in and thoght i was screwed. snap-on has a really nice extractor set. it too mine right out, twice. (thats a long story). they are well worth the money..

scott

 

ANother trick I have used in the past. Take and allen wrench that is a little larger, alot of time you can get a metric or standard that is larger but maybe not the next size. Gently file the end so that you can tap it into the buttonhead with a small hammer, it takes a little trial and error. Then you cn back it out. If that dont work, then you pretty much got to drill and EZ-OUT it. Might want to spray it with some Aero-Kroil and let it soak before you start.

 

this just happened to me last week with my primary drain plug. I tried everything short of jb welding a smaller bolt to it.

A $4 screw extractor from the local hardware store pulled the bolt out in 2 minutes.

 

along those same lines SoF....

My favorite is to tack weld the stripped wrench to the stripped bolt. They are both ruined anyway. Plus, the heat from the weld frees up any rust/lock tight that is seizing the fastener. They usually can be turned out by hand.

10/32 is awful tiny to try this method though. you could drill a 10/32 hole in a piece of metal and plug weld it to the head. then turn the larger piece of metal. I have done this with success too on smaller fasteners

 

Sears sell a kit that has what looks like a countersink and a matching extractor. You need a reversible drill, but they work like a charm. Hope this helps.
P.S. Buy four new screws and change all of them.

 

xxxxx

 

Get a number 40 (.098") cobalt bit and drill strait down the center of the screw about 3/8's deep. then use an easy-out #2 to remove the screw. Tap it in with your vice grips before attempting to turn the screw. This will allow the easy-out to grab the screw. I do this almost everyday at work. We use fairly soft steel screws for temp hardware (HD controls hardware kinda sucks) installation, and after sealing panels down to form gaskets they often strip.

Hope you already fixed it by now.

P.S. Yes, definitely replace all the hardware (w/stainless).

 

thanks everyone for your help>>heres how I finally got the 10/32 out>>I soaked the screw with penetrating sray> then I cut (2) opposing grooves with my trusty Dremel with a cut off wheel >>then I used a small chisel to try & tap it around>>I saw the screw move so then I used a flat blade screw driver to back it all the way out>>>I replaced ALL the button head screws that hold the switch housings together (8)>>and I put a small dab of antisieze on them just for good measure>>Now LETS RIDE