framing
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6th Gear
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framing
Alright can some explain how much i should stretch a frame for my prodject bike i am 6'6' so its gonan coem from a 1948 harley hardtail how much should i stretch it to make it comfortbale andi going with a 200 tire instead of a 150
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From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
RE: framing
I'm about 6'1" due to old age shrinkage, with about a 36" inseam, and a stock Big Twin frame fits well. I did move the floorboards forward about 4 inches, but the frame itself - seating position relative to handlebar position - is good, depending upon the chosen seat.
So, a 6'6" clodhopper like you would fit on a stock frame, but it would definitely be more comfortable with some stretch. How much and in what direction is dependent upon what "look" you are aiming for, and what kind of riding you want to do. Since you mentioned a '48 Pan frame, I'm assuming we ain't talkin' about a Iron Butt bike, but either a chopper-type, or maybe a bobber-type. And if this is gonna be an exercise in an all-out custom bike, like those seen in shows and on certain TV not-so-reality shows, it doesn't matter, 'cause it ain't a ridin' bike, but a "look at me" bike.
Personally, I think too much stretch "up" looks stoopit! That's just my opinion, and it ain't a necessarily humble one. When I see one with a lot of "up" to it, the lines of the bike don't "flow", but seem to be a series of awkward angles. Same thing with a bike that has too much stretch "out". Once again, these are my not-so-humble opinions. Your opinions may differ. They'll be wrong, of course, but it's a free country, and you're quite welcome to keep your wrong opinions!
What kind of front end are you contemplating? Some work better than others, depending upon the final rake angle. With a lot of rake, a springer or girder front end work better than a tube. The tubes tend to start flexing instead of working the hydraulics around +8 degrees and more.
Side note: A 200 series rear and a little skinny front ain't for playin' Rodney Roadracer. The fat rear will start "pushing" and be the dominant handling piece, instead of being neutral. No big deal, 'cause you're talkin' rigid frame and that ain't no racin' bike anyway. Just remember it when you are followin' someone on a close to stock bike through some turns.
6'6", huh? I'd say no more than 4" up and 4" out in the front, coupled with some stretch in the rear (behind the seat post) to give a straight line along the top tube from the neck to the rear axle plates. The stretch in the rear will move your seat back and that will do more for your comfort than anything you do on the front stretch. The straight line concept keeps the angles to the minimum, and that adds to the overall smoothness of the design. Less clutter, so to say.
Ok, after blathering all this stuff in here, here's what I suggest: Stretch the rear 4 inches, stretch the front no more than 4" up and 4" out. That will give you the most in the way of comfort, and some pretty classic lines. And remember the KISS principle.
So, a 6'6" clodhopper like you would fit on a stock frame, but it would definitely be more comfortable with some stretch. How much and in what direction is dependent upon what "look" you are aiming for, and what kind of riding you want to do. Since you mentioned a '48 Pan frame, I'm assuming we ain't talkin' about a Iron Butt bike, but either a chopper-type, or maybe a bobber-type. And if this is gonna be an exercise in an all-out custom bike, like those seen in shows and on certain TV not-so-reality shows, it doesn't matter, 'cause it ain't a ridin' bike, but a "look at me" bike.
Personally, I think too much stretch "up" looks stoopit! That's just my opinion, and it ain't a necessarily humble one. When I see one with a lot of "up" to it, the lines of the bike don't "flow", but seem to be a series of awkward angles. Same thing with a bike that has too much stretch "out". Once again, these are my not-so-humble opinions. Your opinions may differ. They'll be wrong, of course, but it's a free country, and you're quite welcome to keep your wrong opinions!
What kind of front end are you contemplating? Some work better than others, depending upon the final rake angle. With a lot of rake, a springer or girder front end work better than a tube. The tubes tend to start flexing instead of working the hydraulics around +8 degrees and more.
Side note: A 200 series rear and a little skinny front ain't for playin' Rodney Roadracer. The fat rear will start "pushing" and be the dominant handling piece, instead of being neutral. No big deal, 'cause you're talkin' rigid frame and that ain't no racin' bike anyway. Just remember it when you are followin' someone on a close to stock bike through some turns.
6'6", huh? I'd say no more than 4" up and 4" out in the front, coupled with some stretch in the rear (behind the seat post) to give a straight line along the top tube from the neck to the rear axle plates. The stretch in the rear will move your seat back and that will do more for your comfort than anything you do on the front stretch. The straight line concept keeps the angles to the minimum, and that adds to the overall smoothness of the design. Less clutter, so to say.
Ok, after blathering all this stuff in here, here's what I suggest: Stretch the rear 4 inches, stretch the front no more than 4" up and 4" out. That will give you the most in the way of comfort, and some pretty classic lines. And remember the KISS principle.
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