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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
little bump. i am having the same problem. is this a starter relay? i have tried all the fuses. my problem is exact same its got to be a common problem, easy fix?
starter relay
system relay
bad ground (check for looseness or corrosion at battery and frame)
bad + (check for looseness or corrosion at battery and starter relay)
Hey guys I just had a similar issue with my wife's 09 Nightster after replacing 3 batteries and taking it to the Harley shop 3 different times I logged onto this forum and got the answer which was checking the voltage regulator and the stator,in my case I replaced the voltage regulator and problem solved, I will try and forward the steps to check both in a bit, hope this helps.
OK - as requested here's the steps to test: (-ve = negative and +ve = positive).
First check that the battery is indeed not charging. Put the +ve lead from the meter on the battery +ve terminal and the -ve on a good earth. Run the bike. The meter will read around 13.5 --> 14.5V if you're charging and 12+/- if not. Essentially the charging system will put out around 14V if it's charging but if it's not you're only testing what voltage the battery is putting out.
If you're showing that you're not charging at the battery then the next step is to test the regulator. The regulartor is located at the front of the bike between the down-tubes. on the left side is the wiring out to the battery and on the right is the wiring from the stator. Disconnect the regulator on the left side to the battery. There's a little clip with a fold over clamp. Flick the clamp back and pull the clip apart. Put a probe in each of the sockets on the plug coming from the regulator. With the bike running the regulator should put out around 13.5 --> 14.5V like the test at the battery.
If you're getting a good reading at the regulator and a bad reading at the battery you have a bad connection somewhere. A usual place is where the -ve wire connects to the engine. Make sure your connections are all good.
If you're getting a bad reading from the regulator you need to check the stator. Pull the plug from the right side of the regulator. It's the same type as the previous one and it's located low down on the frame around the position of the right foot peg. This time you need to check the plug from the stator, not the regulator so it's the connection coming from under the bike not the one that goes to the regulator. Put a probe on either terminal and change the meter to read "AC". This is important as the stator put's out voltage in AC not DC. With the bike running the stator should put out around 20V AC for every 1000 rpm. As you rev the engine the output should increase.
If you get a good reading from the stator and a bad reading from the regulator the fault is at the regulator not the stator. If you get a bad reading from the stator then it's likely it's burnt out.
Hopefully that should get you some results. Let us know how you get on.
Here is the post that helped me resolve my issue, hope it helps some one else out there.
checked all the grounds. replaced the starter relay and the system relay. it wont bump start. would the neutral, oil, and head light not come on if the kill switch went bad or stuck in "kill" ?
I had to leave to bike at a friends house in the town it crapped out on me in. I think It does Have a CPS at least J&P has one that fits a 1997 1200. For some reason I feel for no good reason it's the ignition switch does that make any Sense. Odometer back light will go on but nothing else. no headlight, neutral, or oil light will turn on and bike does nothing
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