Fatcat exhaust installed & dyno SERT question
Max Power 61.3 hp @ 5546 rpm/98.9mph
with WCF 61.8
Max Torque 66.5 @ 3008 rpm/53.2mph
with WCF 66.9
Do these results sound about right? While typing these figures I just noticed that they mistakenly listed the exhaust as a D&D Boarzilla could that make a difference on how they did the tuning? Is it a different SERT map & what is the one I should use? Not quite sure how this hi-tech gadgetry works and this is my first time at this shop as well so I'm a little concerned.
But there's already a problem. The exhaust sits higher than the stock did and now the rear heatshield is situated so that my boot is close to it and on the first day I've already scratched the black with the metal on my boot while riding home. I'm worried that I'll continue to inadvertantly scratch it or worse scrape the metal despite my best efforts not too. Any ideas on what I can do to try to do to help prevent scratching it more? I thought about putting tape or something over the metal parts on my boot but then it would end up eventually melting on the pipe. I don't think that I can switch to forward controls because I'm only 5'2" and I'm doubtful that I'll be able to reach them or at least comfortably reach them and then I might have the same issue with the other heat shield. Is there a way to move the rear brake and footpeg further out & away from the body so my boot wouldn't rest quite so close to the pipe? I'm not particularly keen on the look of wrapped pipes either. Any other options or am I stuck with it and a sharpie for touch ups? I did think about just using chrome heatshields, but wouldn't that look odd atop a black pipe? And I would still be worried about damaging the pipe with my evil boots. I like these boots alot (they actually fit!) and have a few pair of them so getting rid of the evil boots is not an option.
Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide!
There are no SERT mapsmade for your exhaust system....unless the tuner made one from a close canned map .To make a custom map (which you need for the 2-1 pipe your running) it would intell at least 4.5 to 5 hours of dyno time. If the tuner didn't take that kind of time with your bike I'd venture to say you have a big problem at 2% to 20% throttle position....this is where we find extream rich and lean spikes in the fuel line from the 2-1 pipe.
[IMG]local://upfiles/15784/3B002EB8F8154635952D18A7716551DD.jpg[/IMG]
Figures at the bottom are:
Eng Torgue T WC (ft-lb blue Min 52 Max 66 Avg 60
Eng Power T WC (Hp) red Min 29 Max 61 Average 51
AFR 2 (ratio) green Min 11.1 Max 12.9 Avg 11.7
Thanks for the link to the pegs....now I just need to figure out how to extend the foot brake lever since that is the main thing drawing my boot closer to the pipe. Shop charged me an hour for the dyno. Paperwork says there were 4 cycles. I am a total novice to the this world of dyno and know almost nothing about it.....so any advice on how to deal with these results and how to approach the shop if this was a bad tune would be greatly appreciated.
I found another thread with the same setup on an 06 lowrider. https://www.hdforums.com/m_555196/tm.htm Should I ask the shop which map they used and tell them they should've used SERT #32 141NX002?




