Recurring problems 2009 Low RIder
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: Central Indiana for now
Recurring problems 2009 Low RIder
Posted this last August 2019 and have the same problem again. Maybe I had it in wrong forum then because I got no responses. Hopefully I can get some help this time:
"My 2009 Low Rider fxdl has been acting up, kinda bogging down/stuttering, power fluctuating whenever I try to speed up from steady cruise. Whenever I need to give it some throttle to speed up or climb a hill, it seems like its being pushed and pulled if that makes sense. The power sort of flattens out or dies off instead of building like it should. But if I crank the throttle, it seemed to get past the problem. After a couple days like that, it got worse and now it doesnt get the power youd expect when you crank the throttle and still bogs when trying to gently increase speed.
I checked the codes and the speedometer module and tach module (not my descriptions, its what comes up when searching for how to check diagnostic codes), those two modules show codes b1006 and b1007 which are described as Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments and Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments.
Can anyone tell me what to check next? It seems like an electrical problem but Im no expert and would appreciate all the useful information and help anyone can give. I dont have the money to take it to a shop yet and the local shops are backed up for at least another 5 weeks. Id like a chance to fix it myself and not lose most of the remaining ridingseason.
Thanks in advance."
"My 2009 Low Rider fxdl has been acting up, kinda bogging down/stuttering, power fluctuating whenever I try to speed up from steady cruise. Whenever I need to give it some throttle to speed up or climb a hill, it seems like its being pushed and pulled if that makes sense. The power sort of flattens out or dies off instead of building like it should. But if I crank the throttle, it seemed to get past the problem. After a couple days like that, it got worse and now it doesnt get the power youd expect when you crank the throttle and still bogs when trying to gently increase speed.
I checked the codes and the speedometer module and tach module (not my descriptions, its what comes up when searching for how to check diagnostic codes), those two modules show codes b1006 and b1007 which are described as Accessory Line Overvoltage Instruments and Ignition Line Overvoltage Instruments.
Can anyone tell me what to check next? It seems like an electrical problem but Im no expert and would appreciate all the useful information and help anyone can give. I dont have the money to take it to a shop yet and the local shops are backed up for at least another 5 weeks. Id like a chance to fix it myself and not lose most of the remaining ridingseason.
Thanks in advance."
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: Central Indiana for now
marcodarq and max headflow, I forgot to mention I also have new O2 sensors and on the FP3 app on my phone, the rear cylinder is showing 1.5 to 4.3 voltage and I have heard tht is really high and might indicate a bad exhaust gasket and causing all sorts f problems like 20mpg fuel consumption and the bike wants to stall/buck/bog/puke/choke/spit/backfire/etc. What does that info do to your suggested checks? Would you recommend I check somethnig different or same checks of fuel pressure and plugs and wires plus other checks? By the way, Screamin Eagle plug wires have only been on for about 4000 miles and the plugs are Harley OEM recommended about 300 miles on them and gapped a loose .038.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 444
Likes: 166
From reading your other posts it sounds like you need to pull exhaust and do port gaskets.
you have said you already have them
a leaking exhaust at the head will do all the things you describe if letting oxygen downstream to o2 sensor.
you have said you already have them
a leaking exhaust at the head will do all the things you describe if letting oxygen downstream to o2 sensor.
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: Central Indiana for now
blackjeep, I'm leaning towards doing the exhaust manifold gaskets, I was just hoping I'd find out that IS the problem before starting that fun. I used to love to wrench all the time but now it hurts just to change oil and do other simple sh*t. Getting old makes sitting on a mechanics stool painful after a few minutes. But I will deal with it. I need to win the lottery so I can ride all the time and pay a 24/7 personal mechanic to follow me everywhere with a rolling repair shop.
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: Central Indiana for now
marcodarq, fuel pressure 20. Never varied. Twisted throttle a few times and it never moved from 20.
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2014
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From: florida
You found your problem! If I'm mot mistaken your fuel pressure should be in the neighborhood of 45 psi, maybe a tad more, the spec is in the manual, but i know it's more than 20 psi. Next step is yo go into the fuel tank and see why the pressure is down. Could be a hole in a fuel line or some other kind of line issue, could be fuel pressure regulator housing or oring could be be clogged pickup sock or a bad pump.
get the fuel pressure up yo spec, and then see how it is.
m
get the fuel pressure up yo spec, and then see how it is.
m
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 613
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From: Central Indiana for now
marcodarq, I just paid the mechanic $455 to install new fuel injectors, MAP, change engineoil and filter, AND replace the fuel sock, fuel pressure regulator, and fuel line with quick connector. I supplied the parts. I thought he would put a new fuel filter in too, I just didn't have one. And I had him flush the tank in case there had been bad fuel with debris!. I don't get why he wouldn't put new filter in (at least he didn't say so on printed receipt) and if he didn't check pump I don't understand wh?! Wouldnt that be standard procedure if you are cleaning the gas tank and pulling the guts out?
As for what to do now, I hear the pump cycle when I turn the key and push the run button so it works but I have no idea if it sounds right. I kinda thoought it sounded different than usual but that could be because I am listening for it to be wrong.
Damn it! I'm gonna have to take the tank apart unless I want to wait until Saturday when he MIGHT look at the problem and MIGHT work on it as long as I get there around 8am and he is leaving no matter what by 11am.
Could I have done serious damage to my engine running it like this for maybe a 1,000 miles?
As for what to do now, I hear the pump cycle when I turn the key and push the run button so it works but I have no idea if it sounds right. I kinda thoought it sounded different than usual but that could be because I am listening for it to be wrong.
Damn it! I'm gonna have to take the tank apart unless I want to wait until Saturday when he MIGHT look at the problem and MIGHT work on it as long as I get there around 8am and he is leaving no matter what by 11am.
Could I have done serious damage to my engine running it like this for maybe a 1,000 miles?
Last edited by TerryMcQ; Jun 2, 2020 at 08:21 PM. Reason: edit
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 613
Likes: 33
From: Central Indiana for now
Sh*t! I just realized I'm almost sure he used the same tank guts gasket they say to ALWAYS replace when you pull the guts out. Have you ever reused one? I suppose it could have been good but got screwed up on the re-instal. Or something else roke after he closed it all back up.