Cold Start Issue 2003 FLHTCI
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Update - Installed a new ThunderMax program and went through several tuning sessions to get to a bike that runs great above 1200 RPM. My cold start problem has now grown into any start cold or warm and difficulty maintaining idle setpoint when pulling to a stop. It seems my problem is only at throttle closed so I am looking at the Idle Air Control Solenoid. Purchased a new IAC which should be here tomorrow. and plan to replace original unit having 64,000 miles on it. While I'm in it I will clean the throttle body and the IAC port to ensure the IAC circuit has everything it needs to start cold with throttle cold and maintain idle setpoint after it warms up.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Removed and replaced IAC valve, cleaned throttle body and it seems I have resolved most of cold start issues but am left with another problem.
Bike starts now and runs high idle and I can pull away anytime no issues but, if I run it hard then pull up to a stop the tach falls to 500 RPM, flutters and dies if I dont maintain 1000RPM with throttle. As long as I ride easy it will maintain idle at stop, but if I ride hard I can guarantee it will not idle at the next stop sign. I should mention this bake has sat around alot and I have taken a new interest in getting it back in running order. Maybe only 4k miles in the last 6 years.
I think the fuel filter and regulator were plugged by sitting with old gas.
I think the new filter and regulator have increased pressure to the injectors and prompted me to look at the program.
Reviewing the program and after several riding sessions to accept Autotune Changes I have a good running motor that seems rich idle after riding hard.
64k miles on 20 year old injectors that sit with old gas more than run the last few years..... Maybe I have a dripping 1 or 2 fuel injector now. Tried a tan of Seafoam that didnt solve the drip so I ordered a new set of Fueling injectors.
Bike starts now and runs high idle and I can pull away anytime no issues but, if I run it hard then pull up to a stop the tach falls to 500 RPM, flutters and dies if I dont maintain 1000RPM with throttle. As long as I ride easy it will maintain idle at stop, but if I ride hard I can guarantee it will not idle at the next stop sign. I should mention this bake has sat around alot and I have taken a new interest in getting it back in running order. Maybe only 4k miles in the last 6 years.
I think the fuel filter and regulator were plugged by sitting with old gas.
I think the new filter and regulator have increased pressure to the injectors and prompted me to look at the program.
Reviewing the program and after several riding sessions to accept Autotune Changes I have a good running motor that seems rich idle after riding hard.
64k miles on 20 year old injectors that sit with old gas more than run the last few years..... Maybe I have a dripping 1 or 2 fuel injector now. Tried a tan of Seafoam that didnt solve the drip so I ordered a new set of Fueling injectors.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 18,486
Likes: 3,723
From: backwoods
Mine dies when coasting down from speed when Iac port dirty. But you said you cleaned that
Did the problem exist before you changed maps?
If not running alot, I would use seafoam every time. Maybe now run a couple tank through let it sit, and repeat.
Did the problem exist before you changed maps?
If not running alot, I would use seafoam every time. Maybe now run a couple tank through let it sit, and repeat.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
I had multiple problems at 1st, started with hard cold start with weather change, then the fuel pump regulator crapped out so regulator and filter changed. After that the old program didnt seem right and I guess it was also dying at stops. Changed program and autotuned finding I didnt have high idle, replaced IAC and cleaned throttle body and IAC passage now everything good but it dies at a stop after a hard pull, and smells rich.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Im thinking I have more fuel pressure than I had for a long time and now my old injectors are dripping which doesnt seem to be a problem running but idle is too rich. Guess when I replace the injectors I will need to revisit the fuel map since I changed everything for those dripping injectors....
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
Yes, motor completely rebuilt with 103 stroker wheels, forged pistons rings performance heads and cams. less than 10k miles including all new gaskets seals and bearings. (Motor Only) Also when I cleaned the IAC port and changed the IAC valve I checked the seals on intake. All looked good. . Shop mgr made it a point to tell me the fuel filter and regulator were in very bad shape. Im thinking whatever they shook loose is now between the QD fuel line and the injectors.... I am on 2nd tank of seafoam fuel after filter and regulator changed the only changes I make to fuel map are at or near 0% throttle when I accept the ThunderMax AutoTune Offsets. I want to think it is getting better but if it doesnt in the next tank or 2 I have the new injectors, MAP Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, and Air Temperature Sensors as well as 2 new manifoled to head rubber seals.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,940
Likes: 8,037
From: poway
Set injector timing to 368 degrees in basic settings if the current numbers is higher.
Make sure that the throttle is always returned all the way closed each time before you start the bike. If the cable hangs up at all and does not return to stop on the throttle body,
List the whole build and when the problem started.
If you can post the map.
Make sure that the throttle is always returned all the way closed each time before you start the bike. If the cable hangs up at all and does not return to stop on the throttle body,
List the whole build and when the problem started.
If you can post the map.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
BuildOrdered July 2002 Delivered April 2003 Rebuilt @ 55k miles, Currently has 64k miles
Options-Fuel Injection (FLHTCI) Added Cruise Control, Oil Cooler and Parade Fan
S&S Stealth Air Cleaner and Back Plate
Vance & Hines True Duals with Welded 18mm bungs & Vance & Hines Monster Oval Slip Ons
Screamin Eagle Performance Clutch Kit Part No. 37969-03A =Spring - 37951-98A, Clutch - 37980-03A
Screamin Eagle Performance Heads Part No. 16953-99C
Doherty Mist Free Breathers & Drilled Rocker Boxes
Screamin Eagle 4-3/8 Stroker Part No. 23728-07A
Screamin Eagle HD Lefty Bearing Part No. 24004-03B
Screamin Eagle Big Bore Cylinders and Forged Piston Kit (10.5:1) Part No 22868-00 (22862-00?)
Screamin Eagle Big Bore High Performance Head Gaskets Part No. 16101-01
Screamin Eagle High Tensile Cylinder Stud Kit Part No. 16505-01
Screamin Eagle Premium Tapered Quick Install Adjustable Pushrods Part No. 18404-08
Screamin Eagle SE High Capacity Tappets Part No. 18527-13
Screamin Eagle 211 Cams Part No. 25152-00
Screamin Eagle High Performance Inner Cam Bearings Part No. 24017-10
Screamin Eagle Hydraulic Cam Chain Tensioner & Hi Flo Oil Pump Part No. 25284-11
All of this was running fine with Dynojet Power Commander - Son removed and replaced with ThunderMax roughly 2kmi ago. It seemed to be running OK until I started riding again. When I started riding I noticed it was having cold start issues. Then at work it seemed to run out of fuel with a full tank. Called dealership who picked it up finding fuel filter very dirty and fuel regulator gummed up. Filter and regulator were replaced then I noticed idle issues. I have cleaned IAC port and replaced IAC valve finding startup high idle returned and normal operation most times OK until warm riding thru town, Mostly after hard riding the idle would fall below 1k RPM and bobble between 700 and 1k. If it dropped to 600 RPM it would die and be very hard to restart.
I assumed after extended sit time the bad fuel had gummed up filter and regulator and after filter change with more fuel pressure my injectors were leaking. Ran 1 tank Seafoam finding no change in operation, decided to ride it 215 miles from lake house to my shop finding it died unless I maintain idle RPM above 1k RPM in town stoplights. Went thru a 2nd tank of Seafoam and the 3rd tank was clean 93 octane. By the time I got to the shop it was still struggling to maintain idle but seemed to be better.
SItting at the shop I plugged in and changed Idle RPM setpoint from 992 to 1058. (trying to emulate what I was doing with my hand on throttle) Next day rode to hardware and back maybe 20 miles and 1st time it did not die. It did bobble a little around 700 a couple times in stpped traffic but did not die.
I'll post program when I get home from work tonite.
Options-Fuel Injection (FLHTCI) Added Cruise Control, Oil Cooler and Parade Fan
S&S Stealth Air Cleaner and Back Plate
Vance & Hines True Duals with Welded 18mm bungs & Vance & Hines Monster Oval Slip Ons
Screamin Eagle Performance Clutch Kit Part No. 37969-03A =Spring - 37951-98A, Clutch - 37980-03A
Screamin Eagle Performance Heads Part No. 16953-99C
Doherty Mist Free Breathers & Drilled Rocker Boxes
Screamin Eagle 4-3/8 Stroker Part No. 23728-07A
Screamin Eagle HD Lefty Bearing Part No. 24004-03B
Screamin Eagle Big Bore Cylinders and Forged Piston Kit (10.5:1) Part No 22868-00 (22862-00?)
Screamin Eagle Big Bore High Performance Head Gaskets Part No. 16101-01
Screamin Eagle High Tensile Cylinder Stud Kit Part No. 16505-01
Screamin Eagle Premium Tapered Quick Install Adjustable Pushrods Part No. 18404-08
Screamin Eagle SE High Capacity Tappets Part No. 18527-13
Screamin Eagle 211 Cams Part No. 25152-00
Screamin Eagle High Performance Inner Cam Bearings Part No. 24017-10
Screamin Eagle Hydraulic Cam Chain Tensioner & Hi Flo Oil Pump Part No. 25284-11
All of this was running fine with Dynojet Power Commander - Son removed and replaced with ThunderMax roughly 2kmi ago. It seemed to be running OK until I started riding again. When I started riding I noticed it was having cold start issues. Then at work it seemed to run out of fuel with a full tank. Called dealership who picked it up finding fuel filter very dirty and fuel regulator gummed up. Filter and regulator were replaced then I noticed idle issues. I have cleaned IAC port and replaced IAC valve finding startup high idle returned and normal operation most times OK until warm riding thru town, Mostly after hard riding the idle would fall below 1k RPM and bobble between 700 and 1k. If it dropped to 600 RPM it would die and be very hard to restart.
I assumed after extended sit time the bad fuel had gummed up filter and regulator and after filter change with more fuel pressure my injectors were leaking. Ran 1 tank Seafoam finding no change in operation, decided to ride it 215 miles from lake house to my shop finding it died unless I maintain idle RPM above 1k RPM in town stoplights. Went thru a 2nd tank of Seafoam and the 3rd tank was clean 93 octane. By the time I got to the shop it was still struggling to maintain idle but seemed to be better.
SItting at the shop I plugged in and changed Idle RPM setpoint from 992 to 1058. (trying to emulate what I was doing with my hand on throttle) Next day rode to hardware and back maybe 20 miles and 1st time it did not die. It did bobble a little around 700 a couple times in stpped traffic but did not die.
I'll post program when I get home from work tonite.
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
Likes: 184
From: Indiana, USA
This was the last saved before the 215 mile trip and does not include fueling offsets accepted or the increase Idle RPM setpoint from 992 to 1058
Could not upload program with standard file extension. Change .txt the attached to .slk
Could not upload program with standard file extension. Change .txt the attached to .slk