wiring to spare on fuse block??
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 331
Likes: 1
From:
RE: wiring to spare on fuse block??
ORIGINAL: ronyd
rjrivero,
Sweeeeet!!!
So I can either spliceor purchase the Accessory connector to plug into B+ connector? Is it Ok to splice a connection?
rjrivero,
Sweeeeet!!!
So I can either spliceor purchase the Accessory connector to plug into B+ connector? Is it Ok to splice a connection?
I use the 3m Posilock Connectors (available at any Wal Mart in the car stereo area) and can tap into any wire in the distribution area.
Good Luck.
RJ
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
RE: wiring to spare on fuse block??
rjrivero,
As long as the IGN switch is in "off" position and B+ is NOT HOT, I'm good. Knowng me, I'll forget to turn off the Heaters at 6am at work, go inside for the rest of the day. at least I know if the bike is off, the Heaters are off. Sound like a plan??
This was a great exercise to look at different options. Gets you into the electrical a little, and learn what's really going on. Hopefully this thread will be observed and used by others.
I know the "relay" strategy is probably overkill, but that's OK. Even if I wanted to just quick-blow fuse (5amp) the B+ and connect Heaters, I doubt very much anything else will be taken out, since the circuit breaker is 30amp.
I wonder if HD stealers or local bike shops would go to this trouble. Probably would just do installation as instructed using Orange/White wire for head light accessory power and be done with it. If the accessory fuse blows, well you got no power to speedmeter , rear lights, adn whatever else is tied to it. Not sure is these heaters would even get to the point of blowing out the 15amp accessory fuse.
Anyways, to you and NCCopBikeRider thankx. I'll keep you posted on my progress...
As long as the IGN switch is in "off" position and B+ is NOT HOT, I'm good. Knowng me, I'll forget to turn off the Heaters at 6am at work, go inside for the rest of the day. at least I know if the bike is off, the Heaters are off. Sound like a plan??
This was a great exercise to look at different options. Gets you into the electrical a little, and learn what's really going on. Hopefully this thread will be observed and used by others.
I know the "relay" strategy is probably overkill, but that's OK. Even if I wanted to just quick-blow fuse (5amp) the B+ and connect Heaters, I doubt very much anything else will be taken out, since the circuit breaker is 30amp.
I wonder if HD stealers or local bike shops would go to this trouble. Probably would just do installation as instructed using Orange/White wire for head light accessory power and be done with it. If the accessory fuse blows, well you got no power to speedmeter , rear lights, adn whatever else is tied to it. Not sure is these heaters would even get to the point of blowing out the 15amp accessory fuse.
Anyways, to you and NCCopBikeRider thankx. I'll keep you posted on my progress...
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
RE: wiring to spare on fuse block??
Well, here's the Accessory cable. I have an inline fuse holder attached with male spade, inserted into the supplied Terminal Housing. didn;t realize it , but accessory cable has 3 accessory taps. Pretty sweet...
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/9C8A575229994619BDF90215AD08A32D.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/9C8A575229994619BDF90215AD08A32D.jpg[/IMG]
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 8
From:
RE: wiring to spare on fuse block??
I wouldn't run the heated circuits through the ignition switch, that's why they have relays in the bike now to eliminate the excess draw through the switch.
Heated equipment should be run through a relay that is either ignition switch activated or wired directly. Only problem directly is that you have to remember to disconnect when not running to avoid battery rundown.
Wiring thorigh a relay is very easy to do. Here's a diagram that you should be able to figure out the trigger circuit (ignition) and the main circuit.
[IMG]local://upfiles/8308/0200E997EAD84535902DFFA466808BA6.jpg[/IMG]
Heated equipment should be run through a relay that is either ignition switch activated or wired directly. Only problem directly is that you have to remember to disconnect when not running to avoid battery rundown.
Wiring thorigh a relay is very easy to do. Here's a diagram that you should be able to figure out the trigger circuit (ignition) and the main circuit.
[IMG]local://upfiles/8308/0200E997EAD84535902DFFA466808BA6.jpg[/IMG]
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
RE: wiring to spare on fuse block??
Glide and rjrivero, the B+ is rated at 10amp, so why would I have a problem if I'm using a 5 amp fuse, and the heaters are rated at 3 amp. What accessories are meant for the B+? Is HD assumming you will be using only devices with relay circuits.
I was thinking that the relay was more overkill than needed. But, I certainly wouldn't have a problem installing one. I want too do the right thing here, time is on my side and not in a hurry to to hack something in!!
If we are all in agreement, the pics are what I'll purchase and I'll use the B+ for the trigger. I'll just for the input 12v from battery with my inline 15 amp. It's gonna get tight under the seat for the Accessory connector and the relay/connector eahhhhh...
In the mean time, I have internally routed the Heaters, along with my switch assembly wiring. I'll temporarily hook up the battery to the Heaters and check everything out before I button things up. The Heaters can be switched off, along with 4 levels of temp control.
This certainly has been a great discussion.
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/10283D6297E64405BB6EB290FBB6E2C4.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/D20258C67A124608B28B5DD02AFA0DE1.gif[/IMG]
I was thinking that the relay was more overkill than needed. But, I certainly wouldn't have a problem installing one. I want too do the right thing here, time is on my side and not in a hurry to to hack something in!!
If we are all in agreement, the pics are what I'll purchase and I'll use the B+ for the trigger. I'll just for the input 12v from battery with my inline 15 amp. It's gonna get tight under the seat for the Accessory connector and the relay/connector eahhhhh...
In the mean time, I have internally routed the Heaters, along with my switch assembly wiring. I'll temporarily hook up the battery to the Heaters and check everything out before I button things up. The Heaters can be switched off, along with 4 levels of temp control.
This certainly has been a great discussion.
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/10283D6297E64405BB6EB290FBB6E2C4.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/D20258C67A124608B28B5DD02AFA0DE1.gif[/IMG]
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Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,281
Likes: 8
From:
RE: wiring to spare on fuse block??
Use your B+ for the feed to the relay (term 86) so it's a controlled lead from the ignition switch drawing less amps, use an additional fused feed from the battery (12v) connect to term 30/51. Term 87 (12v out) goes to the heaters , term 85 to ground.
This way you have less draw through the ignition switch which is a good thing. Much better to use a relay for heated items or high draw lighting. Your choice for the relay (bosch type) is perfect.
This way you have less draw through the ignition switch which is a good thing. Much better to use a relay for heated items or high draw lighting. Your choice for the relay (bosch type) is perfect.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 852
Likes: 3
RE: wiring to spare on fuse block??
Glide/rjrivero,
any ideas on location for the relay/connector? It's gonna be real tight under seat. I ready have my battery tender connector, and also my Gerbing heated gloves connector.
I was thinking maybe somewhere behind the nacelle.
I mentioned that I purchased the Gerbing heated gloves back in September. I was thinking maybe of also putting these on a relay circuit also. Could purchase a double relay connector. Which means I'll definitely need some space..
anyways, let me know if any ideas pop out.
Heres the a few pics of Heat Demons wired up. Temporarily tested the Heaters attached to battery. Works great, 4 levels of heat. Never used delectric silicon grease filled pigtails that they supplied. Pretty neat stuff.
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/B3CA145BC0434FF2921F7B7B0A7218AC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/1A308DC9CB55485DB30F85B8E3C9C015.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/5510E157CF624C6F891C14D32D4EB2C2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/6C442A5A7EFA405CA8B5C98EF40E59AC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/4DAF88B17DC04FEDBB2C51114F2C3A3E.jpg[/IMG]
any ideas on location for the relay/connector? It's gonna be real tight under seat. I ready have my battery tender connector, and also my Gerbing heated gloves connector.
I was thinking maybe somewhere behind the nacelle.
I mentioned that I purchased the Gerbing heated gloves back in September. I was thinking maybe of also putting these on a relay circuit also. Could purchase a double relay connector. Which means I'll definitely need some space..
anyways, let me know if any ideas pop out.
Heres the a few pics of Heat Demons wired up. Temporarily tested the Heaters attached to battery. Works great, 4 levels of heat. Never used delectric silicon grease filled pigtails that they supplied. Pretty neat stuff.
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/B3CA145BC0434FF2921F7B7B0A7218AC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/1A308DC9CB55485DB30F85B8E3C9C015.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/5510E157CF624C6F891C14D32D4EB2C2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/6C442A5A7EFA405CA8B5C98EF40E59AC.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/34488/4DAF88B17DC04FEDBB2C51114F2C3A3E.jpg[/IMG]