Yeah, it is lean but it could be the 2-1 he is trying to tune. Little to no exhaust resistance.
---Yeah, that came from the previous owner, I like them ok - but I've been told I could get more out of a pair of shorties with torque cones


The bike with those cams can produce more HP and TQ with the right exhaust but that 2-1 is too open. Again it could be the lean condition.

could be a little lean - this is just my first tune attempt, I set the bias table to 680 for these passes. anywhere from 680-720 seems to be the sweet spot that everyone has recommended on various threads...at least what I seemed to see.

Notice the inherent dip in TQ the 255's are famous for just before and after 2500 RPM's? This can be tuned out but not completely. Again the lean condition.

Is that a clutch slip I see at 3500 RPM's? i just services the bike the night before this run including fluids, and clutch adjust - hope not :/

I'm sure it's much better than stock. Since your TQ starts to fall off at 3700 RPM's then you should shift no higher than 5300 RPM's to get back to your peak TQ or your bike will fall off in the higher gears. Figure shift = loss of 1500 RPM's. When you grab a handful of throttle and shift you want to be back in your peak TQ curve.

Sorry if I seem harsh and all matter of fact.[/QUOTE]

i really appreciate the input - this was my first attempt and i'm happy to see some power in it, but no doubt I have more to go.
I had to pull out the laptop to reference what I set my CLB tables to (681) and just noticed that I didn't set them both - this whole tune needs to be redone - the front was set, the back wasn't (still stock at 622) **** would that be the lean condition ...yep, ima n00b

 

why would tuning in 4 passes be a challange
granted I had a lot of open cells, but they aren't in my normal driving range, so i didn't worry about it. The others, once there were little to no changes after the fourth run, should have been done...no?

I just posted a problem so I need to retune anyway (didn't have both CLB tables set properly - rookie mistake, but I am so I'll just adjust and pay closer attention) but if there is something esle I should know or be doing about the tune process please let me know - hardest part is its pretty flat around here.

 

You need to have as many cells as possible filled because areas that are all around cells that are not filled end up being effected. One thing when you go back make sure that the sniffer is shoved at least 10 inches past the junction where the front and rear headers come together, the closer to the exhaust ports the better. if the sniffer is too close to the junction you will get a false lean reading. try and get both front and rear readings.

 

will do thanks! guess I should have gone with my gut last time and added 2up runs if I had to in order to fill more cells - now that I have to do it all over again anyway, and knowing that my build should be able to do much better than that, I will put more into the tunning runs - add the wife and see what I can find for hills...then bring up your sniffer comments when I go back

thanks again

 

If you notice in the picture you can see the sniffer. It's not long enough to get past the muffler so there is no real way to tune one cylinder at a time. Sniffer tube must be longer to do what mt is asking.

There may not be anything wrong with the clutch. All the waffling on the TQ line could mean something else. You may not like the answer to this but it could be that your rear tire is out of round. It could be delaminated internally (belts separating) causing the tire to be out of round. Next time you get it in the air you may want to check that.

When you change the bias tables you must start your tune from scratch. ouch.. I'm also hope you guys did a cam tune and worked with your EGR's?

I'm assuming you have a 96" motor and you can get more out of that cam especially if you clean up the heads.. anyway... I'm getting way out there.

 

BTW.... TTS had a new software update just hit last night.

There's the new Dyno or Street Tune selection when VTuning and a newer GUI interface on the Histogram that will allow you to see where you are in between kPa or TPS. There is a USB com port fix for the HP Pavilions.. and on and on... new firmware for the TTS2 setting up for the version 3 software...


Time to update.

 

don't like the idea of the tire but I'll have a look at it, that tire is not that old, but they are the cheapest I could find (perelli night dragons)

yeah, figured that would trash the tune, i just ran updates anyway, so new firmware, etc. to go along with the do-over.

had a friend of a friend help do the CAM install, not sure about cam timing, but he does most of the work for the lead club around here and is highly regarded so I will trust that was done well for now - the tune he left to me.

its a 96 - not sure i can afford to do much more with the heads right now - its actually got brand new calendars, heads and pistons as of the CAM install, thats going to be probably next year if it can wait.

based on what I'd seen out there, I was surprised by my numbers - 80 HP was a bit below the 90's i've seen people pulling with the same build. so I'm hoping this retune, more passes, add 2up, and whatever else i need to do in order to hit more cells helps. then I'll try the local dyno one more time and see how the numbers look.

 

Go to the manual. Look up Cam TUNE. This too will need to be done before you retune.

 

guess I thought this was covered when I started with a base map designed for 255cam - I still need to run through this?

 

MT and Wiz are correct in all they say. I just wish to add something. You feel that hitting cells you normally don't hit doesn't matter. Yes they do. Trying to 'green up' as many cells as possible is always the best way to go. Actually, right after doing the cam tune stuff, you should lower your RPMs and get green in a few 750 rpm cells. Sitting in the garage, have the laptop open and the histogram showing. Simply using the clutch and brake, you can get a couple columns at 750 rpm.

The go get you some 1000 rpm greenies.

Think that the 750 row doesn't matter? What happens when you release your clutch! See?

DIYer tuning is hard if you have no hills to speak of, for sure. To make for a GREAT riding bike, you really will want to try to make the histogram as green as possible at 1750 and 1500 rpms. Also, if you have a hill or two, decel tuning really helps too. Rev up, in 5th, or even 4th, to like 3k rpms , then let off and coast down the hill. You should repeat this a bunch and also sometimes slightly hold the throttle open a smidge.

Tuning decel will help transitions from coasting to twisting the throttle.

This is NOT rocket science. But it IS hard to do and get it right. Takes some work and dedication and when done... feel really GOOD that you did it yourself.

You should do the cam tune. EVEN if the base map covers this. Cam tune WILL help the 2500 and under manners of the bike quite a bit, actually. You have it, it's free, so use it.

It's all about dialing in YOUR components that are on YOUR bike, as opposed to generic settings. If it comes out the same, well.... then you checked and all is OK. Sometimes things are NOT OK, see?

I talked to Steve today. He told me, like always, I am a dumbass. HAHA! But what I DID learn was the cam tools, etc are for low speed engine tuning. Like 2500 rpms stuff. Think about THAT! Those are the areas we all mainly ride in. Higher RPMs? WOT? etc... the injector is basically open the whole time anyways.