Bad stator=engine heat?
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 253
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From: Terrace, British Columbia
Bad stator=engine heat?
TC88 with charging problems. new regulator and stator on order-system is still maintaining batterey @ 12.2 v so still riding it while waiting for parts-changed primary oil and it stunk to high heaven and kind of had a dark purplish color.
Question is, Im not embarking on any long trips but need my bike for trips to work and back-this morning, maybe i'm a bit sensitive but the engine seemed to be putting off some extra heat, especially on the primary side.
Am i paranoid or can a bad stator or regulator cause an engine overheat?
Seems to be a whirring noise inside the front of the primary case.
cheers
Question is, Im not embarking on any long trips but need my bike for trips to work and back-this morning, maybe i'm a bit sensitive but the engine seemed to be putting off some extra heat, especially on the primary side.
Am i paranoid or can a bad stator or regulator cause an engine overheat?
Seems to be a whirring noise inside the front of the primary case.
cheers
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,625
Likes: 6,442
From: Honah Lee
My pat answer below but it's going to leave you setting from not cranking. Be sure before your replace alternator stator and regulator I would do battery and also make sure none of the leads are going to ground. Guess your stator could have just worn out but something put a lot of load on it to burn it up. Could be regulator only if you checked stator leads before regulator for correct AC voltage. Not sure about your old one but mine is 3 phase 32-40volts AC from the 3 leads. have you checked that?
For the battery
After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 2 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%
With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.7 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below 9.6 volts or so and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read 14.8 or so volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 or so shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the battery is recharged from starting, the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test but really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it.
For the battery
After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 2 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%
With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.7 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below 9.6 volts or so and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read 14.8 or so volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 or so shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the battery is recharged from starting, the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test but really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
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From: Out on Deranged
TC88 with charging problems. new regulator and stator on order-system is still maintaining batterey @ 12.2 v so still riding it while waiting for parts-changed primary oil and it stunk to high heaven and kind of had a dark purplish color.
Question is, Im not embarking on any long trips but need my bike for trips to work and back-this morning, maybe i'm a bit sensitive but the engine seemed to be putting off some extra heat, especially on the primary side.
Am i paranoid or can a bad stator or regulator cause an engine overheat?
Seems to be a whirring noise inside the front of the primary case.
cheers
Question is, Im not embarking on any long trips but need my bike for trips to work and back-this morning, maybe i'm a bit sensitive but the engine seemed to be putting off some extra heat, especially on the primary side.
Am i paranoid or can a bad stator or regulator cause an engine overheat?
Seems to be a whirring noise inside the front of the primary case.
cheers
At full temp your primary should be too hot to keep your hand on, yet not burn you. I doubt that would cause your cyls.or heads to overheat if that is any comfort. If you see the engine + batt. light while running your no longer charging the battery and will eventually get stuck somewhere. compression start it at that point, but pull the fuse marked lights to save power and get her home!
IMO a fully charged batt. with EFI bike should be good to get you a couple hundi miles. Much more if your carbed!
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