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To check the float level you have to remove the carb and turn it upside down.
The float has a hinge pin, which allows the float to rise and fall. On the float there is a tab that rests against the bottom end of the float needle. This tab pushes the needle up (closes off the flow) as the float rises.
What you have to do is to bend this tab so that the float is at the specified distance when the float needle is completely shut off (raised all the way up).
The tab is bent to adjust the float level a specified distance above the float bowl surface face. This distance will be measured directly opposite the side with the hinge pin and use a drill bit of the diameter equal to the specified distance to measure this, by laying the drill bit between the carb body and the top of the float. Most of us use needle nose pliers to bend the tab.............pg
Awesome. I might have it now. I adjusted (bent the tab) the float. It doesn't leak at idle or after shutdown anymore. I'll have to test ride it to see if I adjusted it too far though. It's running just fine at idle.
Thanks for the help.
Good progress! There is a specified distance for the float to come up to, but the bike does not leak now so that means the float needle is shutting off the fuel flow before the bowl fills and overflows.
If the bike seems starved for fuel at high speed (or going around long sweeping curves with the bike leaned over to the left or right), then you will need to raise the float level just a bit.......pg
I just finished the high speed test and everything seems perfect. It didn't seem starved for fuel at all and didn't leak at all.
I tried to get the "high speed performance weirdness" to happen again (the reason for this topic in the first place), but it didn't happen. So maybe it was related to the float needing adjustment.
Thanks for the help pg, strickrodt70
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