Valve question
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Valve question
I'm considering oversized valves on my build. I was wondering how to choose valve guides, I assume larger valves need larger guides. I was also wondering about the seals.
THe valves I'm considering are 2.00 head diameter for the intake and
1.63 for the exhaust.
Oh, and springs I assume i'll need higher lift for the valves.
THe valves I'm considering are 2.00 head diameter for the intake and
1.63 for the exhaust.
Oh, and springs I assume i'll need higher lift for the valves.
Last edited by EvilWayz; Sep 11, 2017 at 01:38 PM.
I am not expert on internal engine characteristics, but I have heard many times from experts on these forums that IronHead engine valves are large to start with and that there is no gain from oversize valves on a relatively stock engine.
IronHead engines have no valve seals fromm the factory. It is a bad idea to install them on the exhaust sides as that area needs some oil for cooling. They are not needed on the intakes but do not do any harm there.
My own experience is that when floating/umbrella valve seals were installed in mine by the machine shop [against my wishes] the exhaust valve[s] would stick when riding hiway at a steady 70+ MPH for a few miles. Heck of a racket with the pushrod[s] bouncing up and down in there. I would pull off to the side of the road, let it cool down for a few minutes, then all was OK again. Most disconcerting when my IronHead buddy wanted to do 3rd gear roll-ons
I am not familiar with the tech details of valve springs either but I would buy high end brand name springs like Manly or whatever. Might need to consider lift of springs if installing special purpose cams.
IronHead engines have no valve seals fromm the factory. It is a bad idea to install them on the exhaust sides as that area needs some oil for cooling. They are not needed on the intakes but do not do any harm there.
My own experience is that when floating/umbrella valve seals were installed in mine by the machine shop [against my wishes] the exhaust valve[s] would stick when riding hiway at a steady 70+ MPH for a few miles. Heck of a racket with the pushrod[s] bouncing up and down in there. I would pull off to the side of the road, let it cool down for a few minutes, then all was OK again. Most disconcerting when my IronHead buddy wanted to do 3rd gear roll-ons
I am not familiar with the tech details of valve springs either but I would buy high end brand name springs like Manly or whatever. Might need to consider lift of springs if installing special purpose cams.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
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I am not expert on internal engine characteristics, but I have heard many times from experts on these forums that IronHead engine valves are large to start with and that there is no gain from oversize valves on a relatively stock engine.
IronHead engines have no valve seals fromm the factory. It is a bad idea to install them on the exhaust sides as that area needs some oil for cooling. They are not needed on the intakes but do not do any harm there.
My own experience is that when floating/umbrella valve seals were installed in mine by the machine shop [against my wishes] the exhaust valve[s] would stick when riding hiway at a steady 70+ MPH for a few miles. Heck of a racket with the pushrod[s] bouncing up and down in there. I would pull off to the side of the road, let it cool down for a few minutes, then all was OK again. Most disconcerting when my IronHead buddy wanted to do 3rd gear roll-ons
I am not familiar with the tech details of valve springs either but I would buy high end brand name springs like Manly or whatever. Might need to consider lift of springs if installing special purpose cams.
IronHead engines have no valve seals fromm the factory. It is a bad idea to install them on the exhaust sides as that area needs some oil for cooling. They are not needed on the intakes but do not do any harm there.
My own experience is that when floating/umbrella valve seals were installed in mine by the machine shop [against my wishes] the exhaust valve[s] would stick when riding hiway at a steady 70+ MPH for a few miles. Heck of a racket with the pushrod[s] bouncing up and down in there. I would pull off to the side of the road, let it cool down for a few minutes, then all was OK again. Most disconcerting when my IronHead buddy wanted to do 3rd gear roll-ons
I am not familiar with the tech details of valve springs either but I would buy high end brand name springs like Manly or whatever. Might need to consider lift of springs if installing special purpose cams.
THe engine will not be stock, it's going to be stroked out to 74 inches. Not sure if that makes a difference but Im inclined to stick with stock as stroker engines have shorter lives than stock.
Last edited by EvilWayz; Sep 12, 2017 at 01:29 PM. Reason: additional info
I have read that there are advantages and disadvantages to guides of different materials. I do not recall the details but that it is important to be aware of them when choosing. Bronze is a softer metal than other choices so I suppose they would wear faster.
Rowe is a high end product so I suppose that the black valves are especially good.
But I am talking from some reading and no direct experience on these matters. The best info would be from the guys at the other IronHead forum...
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7
Rowe is a high end product so I suppose that the black valves are especially good.
But I am talking from some reading and no direct experience on these matters. The best info would be from the guys at the other IronHead forum...
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7
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Tourer
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I have kibblewhite cast iron guides. I thunk i might take everything i got down to the shop and see what they have to say in addition to what xlforum has to say.
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You weren't kiddin, those boys have forgot more about bikes than I will ever know prolly.