Charging system still
Any suggestions? Am I missing something?
Recently replaced the regulator but honestly had something not right prior.
 \\;
Now wait a minute here......
Are you saying that you have disconnected the negative cable at the battery post, put one lead of a test light on the (-) battery post and the other lead on the disconnected battery ground cable and the light lights up when you turn on the key?
I do not think this is much of a legit test myself. When you turn on the key the electrical circuit is seeking to find a ground. It does this by going through the test light? I do not think so. You would be better off to test the ground cable for continuity.
I think your problem lies elsewhere myself.................pg
I picked this bike up late last year. Ran her a few times and never had trouble starting. She sat for a bit over the winter. When I began working on it I had starting problems, I figured a tired battery. Battery seemed OK but I picked up a new one so I would know for sure I was staring with a good unit. She starts fine with a full charge, say 12.3 to 12.6 volts. Less than that needs a jump.
Batterty is not charging. I opened the generator and found a brush spring jammed. Thought I had it, but no luck. Still the same. Is there a way to test the genarator other than the set up with the in line amp meter.
If that wire has been cut back somewhere and is hitting a ground, the generator will not charge.
The original wire on a 1974 XLH was tan in color. This wire ran from the 'GEN' terminal on the voltage regulator to the generator signal light. You can see where should the wire be grounded somewhere, then the generator would charge to ground, or better said.....would not put out a charge.
Is there a way to test the genarator other than the set up with the in line amp meter.
Not that I know of.The trouble is in the charging circuit which consists of the generator, regulator, the associated wiring, and the battery. Your battery is not the problem, so that leaves the generator, regulator and the wiring.
I would look for that missing gen signal light first and make sure it is not there touching ground somewhere. The easy way is to look at the GEN terminal on the regulator. Is the wire there?
This terminal should have 2 tan wires connected to it. One goes to the generator 'A' terminal. Leave that one connected. The other tan wire will be going to that signal light you do not have installed. Remove this wire. Now start it up and see if it charges.
If not, then the generator is the next place you need to check. The regulator is the last thing to check........pg
If so, did you then flash the field before running the bike again?
A light connected to the neg battery terminal as you did should come on when the switch is turned on.
Turning the switch on can possibly complete several circuits - if points are closed, or if condenser is going bad, \\; a circuit \\; to ground can be made.
I've seen a bad regulator drain a battery, but that does not need the switch to be on.
Enough carbon buildup in the generator, or grounded field and/or armature windings can cause a ground also.
Here's a generator test procedure that will usually help isolate the problem, but it's not perfect.
GENERATOR TESTING
Ideal volts to battery - kick is 13-13.5vdc while electric is 14-14.5vdc.
Always polarize generator - Do not forget to flash the field whenever you unhook any leads on the generator.
Touch the positive battery terminal to the A terminal on the generator by briefly shorting the BAT to GEN terminals on a Delco regulator or B+ to D+ terminal on a Bosch regulator.
Never touch the F or DF terminals!
If you have the solid state regulator, flash the field by touching the positive battery terminal directly to the generator A terminal.
If generator is mounted with terminals on top, the A terminal is the front one.
Normal running - If you get above 15vdc to battery, the regulator is bad.
Gen output test - disconnect wires A and F at gen.
Meter negative lead to ground, positive lead to A terminal.
Should read 2-2.5vdc @ 2000rpm.
If not - repair generator.
Full field test - disconnect wires A and F and connect meter as above.
Ground F term to frame for 10 seconds maximum.
Should read 25-30vdc @ 2000rpm.
If not - repair generator.
If both above tests ok - regulator is bad, or the wiring to it.
Remember, battery must be fully charged for checking volts to it.
If in doubt - polarize again!
I look at the schematic and see only 6 wires in the charging system. I figure its got to be easy, but my struggle continues.
I will run generator tests tomorrow and see how it goes. its getting the best of me right now. Every time I find something to fix and think I have it it leads me to something else.
Thanks.
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I did \\;the system test. Where I should have 10 DC amps I have 2.5.
Sounds like the generator, Yes?
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If the brushes look like they are good, inspect how they ride on the commutator. Both brushes have to be in full solid contact.
The other possibility of course is an either open or shorted armature, or the field coils are bad.
The manual tells you how to do all the test on the generator parts and you should be able to do all of these except those that require you have a growler (I am sure you do not)
I am hoping you find a problem with the brushes as this is the easiest to fix.........pg
I will get at the other tests and let you know how I make out.
Thanks for your help.







