Electronic ignition?
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Electronic ignition?
So my bike has had a problem with stalling lately. When I ride it for more than 20 minutes and stop completely, it will die. Not a big problem because I live pretty far out and can keep moving on these back roads, but I would like to be able to no have to restart my bike at a stop sign or something.
A guy at work also has an ironhead (his is an '84, as opposed to mine being an '82) and he said my problem was the Dyna Spark ignition. He said he ran the same ignition and had the same problem, then switched from centrifugal to electronic and has no problems.
The catch, of course, is that he runs a Crane ignition! Yeah, since that obviously is no longer available, what would you guys suggest as far as an electronic ignition goes? I know Dynatek makes a couple, but after I am left less-than-impressed with my current setup I am wary of using another Dyna.
A guy at work also has an ironhead (his is an '84, as opposed to mine being an '82) and he said my problem was the Dyna Spark ignition. He said he ran the same ignition and had the same problem, then switched from centrifugal to electronic and has no problems.
The catch, of course, is that he runs a Crane ignition! Yeah, since that obviously is no longer available, what would you guys suggest as far as an electronic ignition goes? I know Dynatek makes a couple, but after I am left less-than-impressed with my current setup I am wary of using another Dyna.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 751
Likes: 6
From: 500 miles south from Artic Circle
Have you checked that your centrifugal is working ok ? springs are good ? you have lubricated weights = shafts where weights are moving. It might be smart move to buy new centrifugal advance unit with needle bearings... at least J&P sells them.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
Check the advance unit. You should do that at regular intervals anyway. It also may be a bad coil that shuts down once it gets hot. Try the simplest, cheapest things first before you spring for a new ignition.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
Get a set of points Check the adv unit for proper maintenance The set of pts plus adv unit cost less than $40 If this system works than the Dyna system is probably defunct I always carry a set of points as a back up at least I did on my 79 shovel which paid for itself on day going to work
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Well, my something in my transmission also spontaneously combusted.
I have added all of problems up to be clutch dragging, something blew up, something wrong with the ignition, and of course it HAS to leak oil!
At what point do I sell this bike and use the money to purchase weapons to destroy the original owner and all he loves?
I have added all of problems up to be clutch dragging, something blew up, something wrong with the ignition, and of course it HAS to leak oil!
At what point do I sell this bike and use the money to purchase weapons to destroy the original owner and all he loves?
6th Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: texas
My '82 had the mechanical advance unit/points ignition system when I got it 7 years ago. I had the same problem. It is not so much the points, but the mechanical advance and the way it sits in the cover. I bought a Dynatek (spelled different than Dyna spark and others) ignition system and never regretted it. Idle is great, and their are several ignition curves to choose from. Be sure to get the one that goes under the point cover and replaces both the mechanical advance and the points. There are some out their that just replace the points and that leaves you still battling the advance. The only other thing you need is the correct coil. NO module is required.
As far as the transmission goes. Running the drive chain too tight causes the main shaft needle bearings to crater. Even if the chain is not too tight, this is a weak point with these ironheads. Alot of times the main shaft bearing failure cracks or may be even destroys the case. Most ironhead cases I have seen have been repaired in this area.
As far as the transmission goes. Running the drive chain too tight causes the main shaft needle bearings to crater. Even if the chain is not too tight, this is a weak point with these ironheads. Alot of times the main shaft bearing failure cracks or may be even destroys the case. Most ironhead cases I have seen have been repaired in this area.
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 751
Likes: 6
From: 500 miles south from Artic Circle
Remove backplate where points and condensator are attached, advance unit is under that. Check that springs are ok and lubricate weights and shafts with vaseline. Easier this can be done by removing unit, carefull with that center bolt. Notice that there is only one correct way to put it back ...and at least 2 wrongly
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