Dyna S ignition module problems
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Novice
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 18
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From: Stanley, NC
Dyna S ignition module problems
My '82 FLT 1340 started cutting off going down the road. I would see the tach drop to zero, and figured out if I reached down and cut the ignition switch off and back on, it would come back to life (with the cool associated backfire occasionally!). I pulled out the ignition switch and cleaned / rewired all the contacts but still had the problem. It's gotten more frequent and I actually have no spark at all right now - at least that happened in the garage, since my last ride. Something told me it wasn't the ignition switch, but I'm still not sure. What I found was that the ignition module is a Dyna S, and I went through their test procedures and there is no change in voltage on the negative side of the coil as the engine is rotated like there should be. I pulled the sparkplugs out to make rotating the engine easier and found the electrode is burnt almost to a point! They were fine a few months ago.
Any comments, ideas, suggestion? Kind of a weird situation, just wondering if anybody else has seen anything like this. A new module is about an HD (Hundred Dollars, lol - I guess they earn their name).
Any comments, ideas, suggestion? Kind of a weird situation, just wondering if anybody else has seen anything like this. A new module is about an HD (Hundred Dollars, lol - I guess they earn their name).
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 18
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From: Stanley, NC
I should have added that there IS voltage to the coil and ignition module, so the ignition switch is not at fault - at least as I'm testing it in the garage - not sure what happens going down the road. Dynatek's procedure for testing the module is to attach a voltmeter to the negative side of the coil, and ground it to the chassis, then rotate the engine with the ignition switch on, and observe a voltage change - mine is staying at 12.4V all the time, barely varies at all.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,626
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From: Cental, MI
Not uncommon for the Dyna-S to fail...especially if you are running a low ohm Coil!
The S seems to prefer a Points coil.
Or maybe that is a coincidental experience for me...
But, I'll continue to use My Dyna-S with a points coil.
The S seems to prefer a Points coil.
Or maybe that is a coincidental experience for me...
But, I'll continue to use My Dyna-S with a points coil.
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Novice
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Stanley, NC
Do you think that would account for my burnt up plugs? I haven't had the bike that long, or put that many miles on it, so I don't really know how fast it burned up the plugs. They seemed fine just a few hundred miles ago. (???)
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Oxford, Nc
I checked the Dyna S instruction sheet just now and it specifies 3 ohm for race application and minimum 4 ohm to 5 ohm for street. So there you go!
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Mar 2015
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From: Stanley, NC
Well, I ain't racin'! So, I guess I'm looking for a coil or two now as well....HD!!
I'm a little confused on the coils too....does it matter whether the coil says it is to be used with points/condenser? Will those coils work just as well with the electronic module?
I'm a little confused on the coils too....does it matter whether the coil says it is to be used with points/condenser? Will those coils work just as well with the electronic module?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,548
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From: Oxford, Nc
Consider yours a contactless points system. And since Dyna S are dual fire (you only have one half moon contact in your nose cone?) you can run just one coil if you choose.