Yup, just one "pickup", making it a dual fire setup. I'm pricing a new module w/coil(s) that match...looks like around $140 will be the best I can do...then I'll find out if I have an issue with the ignition switch, but I'm thinking, if there is, I can wire up a simple toggle switch to bypass the faulty circuit - if there is one. Can't handle too many more "HD" moments, if you know what I mean!! But I can wire up a $3 switch with no problem...reminds me of an old Ford I used to have, lol! I appreciate all the help.

 

A multi meter is way cheaper than a new switch. That will tell you if you've got power to the module. Wal-Mart $10.

 

It's in the literature when you buy one MUST USE 5 OHM COIL, of course the average buyer hasn't a clue what that means and whatever is on hand is what gets used.


OP Dyna or for that matter most any aftermarket ign. system either works or not , only time they get intermittant is with a wiring issue and that's usually a ground or loose taped up connection.

Another thing you may look at is the main circuit breaker those get weak with age will drop out when hot and then kick back in. Will drive you nuts chasing the whole electrical system looking for a fault or bad part over this issue

 

Good suggestion about the circuit breakers. At least those aren't a hundred dollars.

I wonder if the cutting out (possibly caused by wiring, ignition switch, or breakers) could have caused the module to go bad - with all the surges in power?

I did find a small wire rub on the white lead of the module, but taping it now had no effect - too late I guess. That may have caused the cutting out, I guess - it's just funny how flipping the ignition switch off and on would "fix" it.

At first it would happen only once or twice, early on in a ride - about the time it would warm up, later, it got to doing it all the time, but, till now, it never did it cold - the engine would always start right off.

 

The white wire [if stock] is the 12v to the coil and Ignition unit. Either one grounding will cause the circuit breaker to "break" or disconnect power momentarily, until condition is removed and breaker resets.
A break in that wire will interrupt the power to the coil and or power to ignition unit, effectively shutting it off.
And all of the instructions for the Dyna S type that I have read call foe 3 ohm for racing, and 5 ohm for Non racing...Hell Some folks are always racing...maybe the thought it was specifically for them...Also, most any vendor will tell you that the coil don't matter...wether that is true or not!

 

in time the dyna s will over heat from the different ohms and burn out

kind of like a ballast resistor for points in the old cars if you did not use one the points burnt right up in short order

GM used a S terminal on the starter / when engaged it send 12 volts to the points with out a ballast / then back to the ballast after starting

 

And....This makes the white wire problem, pointed out by the OP, irrelevant???

Maybe I need to only relate one thought at a Time??

 

No i think he had / has more then one issue that came along at the same time or it was caused by him inadvertently moving stuff around and seeing a white wire with a brake in it -- then it did not have spark - and that was not the original issue it was cutting out maybe kicking a braker YEA maybe not -- as its all a guess who really knows what is was going on - but he seems to be pointed in the right direction now

 

instead of getting another dyna-s and a coil, why not get an ultima kit that comes with a coil and no advance weights needed?

 

For the simplcity of the Dyna S, (not a circuit board to be found anywhere.)