Hi Wolf,
First of all, congrats on the sucessful points install. It ran for 25 seconds? That is forward progress! I am almost certain that the problems are with the carburetor. It must be way over rich, causing the plugs to foul up. I never thought it was possible to wet foul plugs while running at 60 mph, but it happened to me when my carb started to run rich all of a sudden as I have previously described.
I once had a Quadrajet 4 barrel on a chevy 350 engine that did the same thing. The Quad had developed leaks internally where Rochester factory(while building the carb) had drilled through to provide a jet passage(s) and then plugged up the part of the passage that was there only to be able to get to the area needing drilling for the jet installation. Well, these plugs (4 places) leaked after time, dropping raw fuel right into the intake. I think you may have a similar condition,albeit on a smaller scale.
Another issue that we have not discussed much is the ignition timing. Do you know how to time the ignition? It requires a plastic plug to screw into the leftside crankcase just below the cylinder bases and a timing light.
First, remove the large bolt located just below the cylinder bases on the left crankcase. Install the plastic plug in place of the bolt. The purpose of this plug is to keep oil from blowing out while allowing you to observe the timing marks on the flywheel using the timing light with the engine running. (And yes, I know, the engine needs to be able to start and keep itself running before you can do this timing exercise. Get that carb problem taken care of first.)
Connect a timing light to the front spark wire and run the engine at 2000 rpm. The front cylinder timing mark is a vertical slash on the flywheel that will show up when the timing light flashes on. If you connect the light to the rear spark wire the rear cylinder timing mark is 2 dots, one above the other, on the flywheel. Getting either of these marks centered in the hole (plastic plug) will be perfect timing. If the mark is a bit off center, timing will still be OK, as long as you can see the mark in the hole it will be fine. The timing is advanced or retarded by loosening the base plate that the points sit on and using a screwdriver placed in the slots, move the baseplate in either direction. This can be done alone but two people make it easier.
Sorry for the long explanation. If you want me to send you the instructions, email me at wb_perry@yahoo.com and I will gladly send you a PDF from the factory manual..............................piniongear

 

Hey Wolf,
I forgot to ask this: You said you took it to 'Doc's' shop, and there must be a Docs in every town? I do not think so, so I looked up your profile and see that you are in Janesville WI? I happen to live in Houston TX but have a buddy who lives in Sobeski WI. Bill had a tool route a few years ago and one of his stops was at Doc's HD somewhere south of Sobeski as I recall. I always made the tool run when I was up there and we went by this shop that had a 'desert layout' inside. I remember all of the lizards on the floor and the place was full of very beautiful women. I wonder if this is the same place? If so, it's a small world.........piniongear

 

Hey,

Thanks for the suggestion on the pushrods, I'll have the tech look at 'em while he's got it in the shop.

Any ideas where I can pick up one of those clear plugs? Is it a common part needed (i.e. pick it up at the HD shop or JP Cycles?)

I'll have to let you know on Doc's shop, I haven't been in there yet, but, if it's anything like the other mech shops in this town it'll be dark, dirty, and dingy<g>. You want to talk about pictures of women tho, stop in to a place called the Hog Barn in Edgerton (about 6 miles from Janesville)...WOW. Not to mention it's more like a constant swap meet for parts and the prices are generally good. They've got a set of saddlebags I'm drooling over for about $35, just haven't had the time to get up there and pick 'em up...not to mention I want the bike running before I throw extras at it<g>

Altho, when you say Bill...he didn't drive for Mac Tools did he? If it's him I used to track him down and buy all sorts of tools from him (gotta love the warranty on good tools...hate having to hunt down the trucks tho<g&gt.

Soon as I get this beast up and running I'll throw some pics up, it's nothing fancy like some I've seen on here, but, I like it. (And yes Pococj, it's got a ton of chrome, but, it came to me that way<g&gt

Thanks again, it's nice to actually talk to people who have the same generation bikes and have gone thru some of the same issues<g>

Edit:: Just looked up where Sobeski is, I doubt he's the same guy...about 3.5 hours north of me.

Wolf

 

Any shop should sell that plastic plug. I don't think Bill Willner drove for Mac, but then I forget what outfit he was with but I know it was not SnapOn because that was his competion. Bill had been badly burned over his face, arms and whole body many years ago while driving a butane truck. If the Bill you bought tools from was badly burned, then we know the same guy. That would really shrink the world if it were him..............piniongear

 

Pinion's timing post was good stuff. As a starter, you can set the points plate in the middle of the slot. It won't be exactly right, but it will be close enough to start the bike easily.

 

After reading through these posts, I can feel your pain. I have a '73 Sporty and went through the same ordeal with the point system, including the broken bolt that holds the stuff in place. Finally got tired of dealing with it and bought an electronic ignition and threw the points away. It is the magnetic sensor type, not computer or anything, the bike has been running better than I ever was able to get it running with the points. It cost around $150 several years ago, I can probably find the receipt if you need more info.


-fernando

'73 Sporty
new custom in process

 

Hey Fernando,

Yeah, if you could send some info my way on the replacement equip it'd be appreciated. Right now I've got an appt to get the poor ol gal into the shop Tuesday night and have 'er back on Wednesday afternoon (no rain no rain no rain), run 'er for the season the way it is, and then yeah, my winter plans are going to be to rip the tank and fenders off, throw a custom paint job on and possibly replace the points with an electronic system.

Best estimate I've gotten so far is from JPCycles, and it's going to be in the neighborhood of 4 hundred after the conversion and new coil...I guess the electronic timing can't run with the original coil, so it's slated for the downseason.

Thanks again to everyone and I'll throw an update out as soon as I get it back,

Wolf

 

Well Piniongear, as an update, the bike's in the shop and I found out the carb with no name ended up being a Bendix, mechanic says they're a PITA to actually get dialed in, guess we'll see. He (for some reason) seems to think the return spring on my advance return may be shot. Makes no sense to me, but, if it did...I wouldn't be paying this guy to fix it!<g> Seems the front cylinder is running great, rear is popping and backfiring...which is about 50% better than it was when it left my driveway.

Thanks again man, sounds like you nailed it on the head with the carb and now it's time to see if I can afford a S&S carb <sigh>

Wolf

 

On a stock bike, or one with only a few modifications, the Bendix is one of the easiest to dial in. What I have seen happen is leaking intake o-rings, leaking o-rings on the main jet, accelearator pump set incorrectly, and one of the hardest to diagnose - worn bushings where the choke or throttle plate shafts pass through the carb. That last one crops up on old Bendix and Keihin butterfly carbs that have seen a lot of miles. The rebuild kits use to have new bushings, but the last one I bought for a Keihin didn't have 'em.

 

Thanks for the update Wolf. Earlier you had told us that you looked behind the base plate where the points sit and found that the advance springs looked OK and that they snapped back. That makes me question your mechanic thinking a spring is broken. See what he determines I guess.
Now, to the carb: I thought it must have been a Bendix. Pococj is absolutely correct (see his latest post) when he says the Bendix is easy to dial in. I agree with that and find it a bit difficult to accept the mechanic saying they are a pain to get right. Most things are a pain if someone does not understand what they are doing. I don't mean to cast doubt on the guy, just for you to take nothing for granted and keep asking questions. Thats how we all learn.
All of this talk about Bendix and other carb issues lately prompted me to pull my Bendix out of the attic this week and pull it apart. I want that enclosed throttle cable that I had to give up when I put the Mikuni back on. Well, I solved my Bendix problem! The brass bolt head on the float bowl bottom is the metering jet and threads up into the carb body. At the top of the tube is a rubber 'O' ring that seals the float chamber from the venturi. The 'O' ring on mine had become hard and had broken in half. This let fuel be sucked up past the 'O' ring into the venturi and then the raw fuel was dumped directly into the cylinders. The ol' Sportster must have been saying, "Wheeee, who needs a main jet anyway!!!?"
This is what caused my soot fouling. I found two sources for a carb kit. The kit includes gaskets, 'O' ring, fiber washers, shaft packing, new float needle, low speed needle and a new accelerator pump assembly. I bought my kit from www.cycleweareables.com for $26 (American made). The other place is J&P Cycles and the price for the same kit (but imported) was $38. So, although he deems it a PITA, have your mechanic have a look inside that Bendix. I still think that is where your problem lies...........piniongear

ps. The link to cyclewareables may not work from this post, so just type it in manually to get there.