Lotsa pressure
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Aah I see the elbow . Thanks, and something I hadnt thought of is by putting theadapter in, it spaces the carb out a little , gaining a little more room for the carb body and the petcock. Thanks! And after reading the info on that "plug" I REALLY feel lucky! Won't do that again!
Good thing..... Carb is moved out away from engine.
Bad thing....... This puts the air cleaner sticking way out in the wind, unless you have the proper air cleaner backing plate. The proper backing plate is something like a Jerry Branch Flometrics pictured below.
Some guys like Sepixlh have made their own. You can see my homemade backing plate was made out of aluminum plate and flat on the backside. This sticks way out!
The Branch has a deep recess on the backside that brings the air cleaner in very close to the engine........
pg
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: Siler City,North Carolina
I just bought a mikuni vm 38 last week from dennis kirk. It comes with the rubber adaptor, an air breather and a throttle cable that allready the 90 elbow on it. $243.99. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...uId=H17007&mmy=
Last edited by jtbredneck351; Oct 3, 2009 at 08:44 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Summerville,SC
I just bought a mikuni vm 38 last week from dennis kirk. It comes with the rubber adaptor, an air breather and a throttle cable that allready the 90 elbow on it. $243.99. http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/produc...uId=H17007&mmy=
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Summerville,SC
Oh ya. Forgot to mention. I have encountered my next possible dilemma. When changing the primary oil, I re-filled to the wrong hole. Rather than the 1/4-20 hole down near the cover bolts, I filled it til it ran out of the lower large plug. (The one with the plus sign shaped slots) do you think I submerged and burnt up my stator? I know that by having the crank case way overfull,I soaked my points. New ones are on the way.I believe the crank side of things ended up so full because while the bike sat( for 10 years) the oil in the tank drained past the pump, then I ,being a bit unfamiliar with what I was doing, topped off the tank. Now I got roughly twice as much oil in there as I'm supposed to. Geez. Simple maintainence and preventative measures sure have caused some set backs. So what is the proper method for fluid changing in thi old girl? The HD manual is a bit vague and none of the local shops seem to have a direct answer. THANK YOU guys soooo much! I am so glad I found this forum!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Oh ya. Forgot to mention. I have encountered my next possible dilemma. When changing the primary oil, I re-filled to the wrong hole. Rather than the 1/4-20 hole down near the cover bolts, I filled it til it ran out of the lower large plug. (The one with the plus sign shaped slots) do you think I submerged and burnt up my stator? I know that by having the crank case way overfull,I soaked my points. New ones are on the way.I believe the crank side of things ended up so full because while the bike sat( for 10 years) the oil in the tank drained past the pump, then I ,being a bit unfamiliar with what I was doing, topped off the tank. Now I got roughly twice as much oil in there as I'm supposed to. Geez. Simple maintainence and preventative measures sure have caused some set backs. So what is the proper method for fluid changing in thi old girl? The HD manual is a bit vague and none of the local shops seem to have a direct answer. THANK YOU guys soooo much! I am so glad I found this forum!
If I recall correctly, another member recently did the same thing (overfilled the primary)..... so you are not the first.
Your machine has a wet clutch, so oil overfilling is not going to have any affect on it.
The bike sat for a long time without being started.
This allowed oil to leak past the ball check in the oil pump and accumulate in the bottom end.
The oil then leaked into the primary (and transmission) through the transfer valve in the left half crankcase.
In short, no damage done.
To fill properly, first drain the transmission and primary case of all oil. The drain plugs are shown in the pics.
Reinstall the drain plugs and pour 1-1/2 pints of oil (the same oil you use in the engine) into the top hole in the primary cover. You can remove the oil level plug screw in font of the left footrest if you want to, but it really is not necessary, since you know the trans and primary are empty at this point.
pg
PS: There is no way that the ignition points could get filled with oil, even if the timing cover was completely full of oil. There is an oil seal behind the advance unit seated in the timing cover and sealing around the camshaft shaft (which drives the points). If you have oil in the points compartment, it is because this seal is bad, not from overfilling the primary. Hope that makes some sense.
Last edited by piniongear; Oct 6, 2009 at 01:30 PM. Reason: Added PS
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,569
Likes: 624
From: deland,florida
ide just use the primary drain to drain primary & trans,the plug under the trans can strip very easily,use sportlube,the clutches dont like engine oil(on a earley XL with a dry clutch it dosnt matter),as far as your point cover having oil in it,its most likley the bushing more than the seal,the seal wont seal properly if the bushing is worn,and if the bushing is ok,it wouldnt pass very much oil,try a seal first,but if it starts leaking again after a little while,replace the bushing
kirby
vee twin racing
kirby
vee twin racing
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
ide just use the primary drain to drain primary & trans,the plug under the trans can strip very easily,use sportlube,the clutches dont like engine oil(on a earley XL with a dry clutch it dosnt matter),as far as your point cover having oil in it,its most likley the bushing more than the seal,the seal wont seal properly if the bushing is worn,and if the bushing is ok,it wouldnt pass very much oil,try a seal first,but if it starts leaking again after a little while,replace the bushing
kirby
vee twin racing
kirby
vee twin racing
1) This is a 1973 machine. It has a transfer valve that allows some engine oil to mix with the primary/trans oil. The factory specs state to use the same oil for both locations as a result.
2) Worn bushing? I disagree here also.
The seal is mounted inside the timing cover, as is the bushing.
I am aware that you must know this, but for the benefit of the OP........
If the bushing was to wear to any degree, it is not a matter of removing the timing cover, popping out the old bushing and installing a new one.
To replace a cam bushing requires the dis-assembly of the engine and line reaming the new bushing through the right side crankcase using a special which none of have, nor do most shops today. Not a minor thing!
Additionally, if the bushing were to wear to that degree the ignition assembly will not rotate concentrically, the timing will be affected, yada, yada, yada.
Actually what happens is this seal will wear out (as all seals do) and need replacing. The OP has not to my knowledge said he has any oil in the ignition compartment, unless I missed something here. He seemed to think overfilling the primary would soak the points, which that will not do............
( I know that by having the crank case way overfull,I soaked my points.)
pg
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,569
Likes: 624
From: deland,florida
the valve is a one way valve,it breathes crankcase pressure,not oil(mist if anything)as far as the bushing goes,weve seen ALOT of XL`s with worn bushings that simply replacing the seal isnt going to cure.replacing the bushing dosnt require engine dissassembly,when we`re doing a total rebuild,we line hone the cam cover bushings(we do have the equipment),but in a case where just the bushing needs to be replace,its fine to install the bushing and hone it to size.done it a million times over 30 years,everyone has been fine,if it was out of line up to .002,youd never have a prob (use a good american made bushing,and sunnen hone,and it should be .0006 to .0015),(if you replace the cam cover,do you dissassemble motor to line hone the new cover?) kinda doubt it,
kirby
vee twin racing
kirby
vee twin racing
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Summerville,SC
thank you both for your replys. This is so cool! No one knows anything about this around here. Everyone basically says uh? well you see, that was an older bike and they have come a long way. What ya aughta do is look into something with an evo. Evos are nice and all, but these old things have character! I love it, and I'm GONNA get it figgered out! Sorry for the overzealousness. :-)
Glad you guys are here!
Anyway, no damage from the gross overfilling? Aah!(Sigh of relief!) I've been a little nauseous since I discovered what I did.
After reading both of your replies, I guess I was a bit unclear in my questions. What it looks like is probably mist from case pressure. Oil didn't run out. There was a bit in the bottom of the recess in the case and the gasket behind the cover was saturated. Sound like the seal? I am assuming that if the bushing were worn, I would have more oil. I do have access to a hone(Sunnen) at work if it is necessary to replace the seal, but that will require pulling the motor and a complete bottom end tear down ... right? Not a good idea to try and get a brake cylinder hone in there because I'll never get the residue out . Correct? I think that where I'm at is I wont need to replace the bushing. I'll see if I can get a picture downloaded so you can see the degree of oily condition that I have.
As far as my crank case being overfull, can I drain a quart or so from the tank, pull the plugs , put it into 4th gear and spin the back wheel to manually run the pump and get the excess oil pumped into the tank, and repeat as necessary?
B.T.W. Pinion, The pics have been great. A HUGE help! I didn't even realize there was a plug there. (Kinda feelin' stupid again :-/ )
Anyway, thank you ALL! I'm goin out to the garage.
Glad you guys are here!
Anyway, no damage from the gross overfilling? Aah!(Sigh of relief!) I've been a little nauseous since I discovered what I did.
After reading both of your replies, I guess I was a bit unclear in my questions. What it looks like is probably mist from case pressure. Oil didn't run out. There was a bit in the bottom of the recess in the case and the gasket behind the cover was saturated. Sound like the seal? I am assuming that if the bushing were worn, I would have more oil. I do have access to a hone(Sunnen) at work if it is necessary to replace the seal, but that will require pulling the motor and a complete bottom end tear down ... right? Not a good idea to try and get a brake cylinder hone in there because I'll never get the residue out . Correct? I think that where I'm at is I wont need to replace the bushing. I'll see if I can get a picture downloaded so you can see the degree of oily condition that I have.
As far as my crank case being overfull, can I drain a quart or so from the tank, pull the plugs , put it into 4th gear and spin the back wheel to manually run the pump and get the excess oil pumped into the tank, and repeat as necessary?
B.T.W. Pinion, The pics have been great. A HUGE help! I didn't even realize there was a plug there. (Kinda feelin' stupid again :-/ )
Anyway, thank you ALL! I'm goin out to the garage.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
I guess I was a bit unclear in my questions. What it looks like is probably mist from case pressure. Oil didn't run out. There was a bit in the bottom of the recess in the case and the gasket behind the cover was saturated. Sound like the seal? I am assuming that if the bushing were worn, I would have more oil. I do have access to a hone(Sunnen) at work if it is necessary to replace the seal, but that will require pulling the motor and a complete bottom end tear down ... right? Not a good idea to try and get a brake cylinder hone in there because I'll never get the residue out . Correct?
No on the Sunnen hone. The other member mentioned using a Sunnen hone to use to hone out a newly installed bushing.
This is not used to install an oil seal. Forget everything you ever heard about honing anything. You have no need for that.
Regarding the seal in the ignition.......
If there is a great deal of oil in there consider replacing the seal. If it is only a small amount, or a light oily covering put off installing the seal until later.
Here is a pic of the ignition parts and the seal, which is item 21........
You will have to remove the timing cover to install the seal, so hold off unless there is really a lot of oil inside.
When the cover is removed, there are a number of other things you need to do first before the cover comes off.
When the cover is removed, some of the cams are going to fall out, along with shims and other parts. Cam timing will be required to put it all back together again. There is a procedure to follow.
So if you have to do the seal, ask for direction from a member before doing so.
pg
No on the Sunnen hone. The other member mentioned using a Sunnen hone to use to hone out a newly installed bushing.
This is not used to install an oil seal. Forget everything you ever heard about honing anything. You have no need for that.
Regarding the seal in the ignition.......
If there is a great deal of oil in there consider replacing the seal. If it is only a small amount, or a light oily covering put off installing the seal until later.
Here is a pic of the ignition parts and the seal, which is item 21........
You will have to remove the timing cover to install the seal, so hold off unless there is really a lot of oil inside.
When the cover is removed, there are a number of other things you need to do first before the cover comes off.
When the cover is removed, some of the cams are going to fall out, along with shims and other parts. Cam timing will be required to put it all back together again. There is a procedure to follow.
So if you have to do the seal, ask for direction from a member before doing so.
pg