74 hardtail project bike
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
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It's lookig like the bike has front and rear brakes already, drum. I'll take pics tommorrow, but it's got two discs, one on either side of the front wheel abut 11 inches tall, smooth chrome, i assume they are covers, because i know what disc brakes look like. . She also threw in the entire rear brake assembly and.....
the service manual. I'm going thru the rest of the parts when its light out.
the service manual. I'm going thru the rest of the parts when its light out.
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 426
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Yeah, I figure if nothing else I can clean it up and resell it. I was talking to my mechanic and he seems to be of the opinion that since 70% or so of your braking is done with the front wheel maybe it would be ok to leave the rear wheel drum as long as i had good stopping power on the front.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
All right! You did good on getting that.
Well worth the money indeed.
That is going to give you some good brakes on the front end.... where you need them.
I would just keep the rear drum brake myself........ pg
Well worth the money indeed.
That is going to give you some good brakes on the front end.... where you need them.
I would just keep the rear drum brake myself........ pg
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
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So here's what i've acquired so far parts wise.
ignition coil
forward controls
hand controls with brake light switch
mechanical brake cable
So far I've spent less than 150 bucks not counting the front end i just bought.
Going to purchase a digital camera since I don't have my own so I can chart progress.
EDIT: 175. Got a good deal on three foot drag bars and 7 inch risers.
Does anyone have an opinion on aftermarket parts for inside the engine while I'm in there replacing piston rings and gaskets?
ignition coil
forward controls
hand controls with brake light switch
mechanical brake cable
So far I've spent less than 150 bucks not counting the front end i just bought.
Going to purchase a digital camera since I don't have my own so I can chart progress.
EDIT: 175. Got a good deal on three foot drag bars and 7 inch risers.
Does anyone have an opinion on aftermarket parts for inside the engine while I'm in there replacing piston rings and gaskets?
Last edited by EvilWayz; Oct 19, 2009 at 12:15 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
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Evil,
if you plan on using the triple trees check with the seller to see if he knows what the front end came off of. I recently had to fit a narrowglide from a big twin bike onto my '73 XLCH. What I did was purchase a timken bearing conversion kit then turn the inside diameter of the cups out to just over an inch. (1.015 to be exact) .They were 15/16 to start. After I turned them out on a lathe, the part that presses into the frame was still as thick as a wide glide cup in that area so I didn't worry about losing any strength. Then use the bearings from a wide glide kit. This will allow for the 1" Diameter stem to fit through the sportster cups and neck. The stem is also a bit longer on the big twin narrow glides. You will need a 5/8 " spacer between your dust cover and the top clamp.
In the picture, you can see I just used a couple of 1" washers from the local hardware store as a spacer.
Attachment 73253
If you check around, someone may already make a kit to do just this, but I couldn't find anything. If you don't have access to a lathe, let me know. If the front end has a 7/8 inch stem, please disregard my message!
if you plan on using the triple trees check with the seller to see if he knows what the front end came off of. I recently had to fit a narrowglide from a big twin bike onto my '73 XLCH. What I did was purchase a timken bearing conversion kit then turn the inside diameter of the cups out to just over an inch. (1.015 to be exact) .They were 15/16 to start. After I turned them out on a lathe, the part that presses into the frame was still as thick as a wide glide cup in that area so I didn't worry about losing any strength. Then use the bearings from a wide glide kit. This will allow for the 1" Diameter stem to fit through the sportster cups and neck. The stem is also a bit longer on the big twin narrow glides. You will need a 5/8 " spacer between your dust cover and the top clamp.
In the picture, you can see I just used a couple of 1" washers from the local hardware store as a spacer.
Attachment 73253
If you check around, someone may already make a kit to do just this, but I couldn't find anything. If you don't have access to a lathe, let me know. If the front end has a 7/8 inch stem, please disregard my message!
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: Summerville,SC
What I did was:
1. Place small diameter of cup in a 3 jaw chuck, butting the shoulder of the large diameter against the chuck to hold the cup square.
2.Using an indicator and a magnetic base, spin the chuck by hand and indicate the tapered surface of the cup, to be sure it is running true. Less than .005 in. would be close enough.
3. using a boring bar, turn inside diameter out to 1.015 in.
4. If a boring bar is not available, an endmill can be used in a pinch. held on its side with the flutes parallel to the cross ways and the endmill turned slightly so only the corner is contacting the inside diameter of the part.
It's not a big deal to do. I did it on my lunch break one day.
Let me know if you need some more pics and let me know how ya make out finding someone to do it.