75 XLCH teardown
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Athens, GA
http://www.irfanview.com/
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 271
Likes: 13
From: OKC
Thanks for the diagram PG.
What would be helpful is the center to center distance of the bracket holes on the seat mounting bracket. I looked in the OEM manual and yours is a different bracket from mine on the 75. I can fab up new sides and recreate the bracket, but I need the distance between the holes.
Next... was tearing down the wheels. The rear hub is chromed so I don't want to lose it, but the brake hub is rough inside. I can't find a maximum hub diameter in the shop manual. Probably not looking in the right place, but didn't see it in Section 2 anywhere.
Anyone got any ideas?
danged tough to do this on grandson's 10" laptop. Still dealing with 3rd hd crash on my dell laptop since August... grrrrr.
What would be helpful is the center to center distance of the bracket holes on the seat mounting bracket. I looked in the OEM manual and yours is a different bracket from mine on the 75. I can fab up new sides and recreate the bracket, but I need the distance between the holes.
Next... was tearing down the wheels. The rear hub is chromed so I don't want to lose it, but the brake hub is rough inside. I can't find a maximum hub diameter in the shop manual. Probably not looking in the right place, but didn't see it in Section 2 anywhere.
Anyone got any ideas?
danged tough to do this on grandson's 10" laptop. Still dealing with 3rd hd crash on my dell laptop since August... grrrrr.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Thanks for the diagram PG.
What would be helpful is the center to center distance of the bracket holes on the seat mounting bracket. I looked in the OEM manual and yours is a different bracket from mine on the 75. I can fab up new sides and recreate the bracket, but I need the distance between the holes. I do not quite understand what you are needing here. Are you needing the side to side distance of the seat mounting holes? Center to center...... I don't understand that part?
Next... was tearing down the wheels. The rear hub is chromed so I don't want to lose it, but the brake hub is rough inside. I can't find a maximum hub diameter in the shop manual. Probably not looking in the right place, but didn't see it in Section 2 anywhere.
Anyone got any ideas? See below.
danged tough to do this on grandson's 10" laptop. Still dealing with 3rd hd crash on my dell laptop since August... grrrrr.
I know the feeling of a crashed hard drive well. Mine went early last year and resulted in my teaching myself how to build a new computer (nothing more than an assembly process really) and how to replace the motherboard and other parts in the old Dell that had crashed. Now have both working and have no fear of a computer any longer. Let it crash and I will fix it.
What would be helpful is the center to center distance of the bracket holes on the seat mounting bracket. I looked in the OEM manual and yours is a different bracket from mine on the 75. I can fab up new sides and recreate the bracket, but I need the distance between the holes. I do not quite understand what you are needing here. Are you needing the side to side distance of the seat mounting holes? Center to center...... I don't understand that part?
Next... was tearing down the wheels. The rear hub is chromed so I don't want to lose it, but the brake hub is rough inside. I can't find a maximum hub diameter in the shop manual. Probably not looking in the right place, but didn't see it in Section 2 anywhere.
Anyone got any ideas? See below.
danged tough to do this on grandson's 10" laptop. Still dealing with 3rd hd crash on my dell laptop since August... grrrrr.
I know the feeling of a crashed hard drive well. Mine went early last year and resulted in my teaching myself how to build a new computer (nothing more than an assembly process really) and how to replace the motherboard and other parts in the old Dell that had crashed. Now have both working and have no fear of a computer any longer. Let it crash and I will fix it.
There are no specs for this that I have ever seen. I assume you are referring to how much it can be turned down?
I had my front wheel apart and the drum was rough inside. I was just able to mount the hub in my 10 inch South Bend lathe (with 1/8 inch clear of the ways) and turn it down. I turned it until it cleaned up. I had no idea of what limits there might be. It works well..........
Give me some better idea of the dimensions you need and I will see if I can get those to you.
pg
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 271
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From: OKC
Okay PG... back and going. Oh, I've built well over a hundred PC's in my day... piece of cake as you said. Its the software/hardware interface that can cause one to lose hair.. 8^)
Attached is a pic from page 2-20 of the OEM service manual. You'll recognize it. From the other pics of my bike frame I've posted, you can see the seat mount bracket (I presume) has been hacked off on top. The service manual page shows the bracket, but not the dimensions. I can refab the bracket with the pieces I have left, but the hole to hole dimensions are unknown. That's the problem.
On the brake hub... I'm jealous; you have a lathe. Wish I had one but I'm just building up my trade in shop tools after having pursued other interests for the middle part of my life. Your setup looks pretty much the same as the brake drum lathe we used to use in the automotive shop. I need and can do the same thing, but the issue comes when the drum is too wide and the brake pads cannot push out far enough to effectively create enough stopping power. On any car I have had drums on, there was always a maximum drum inner diameter that told you when the drum was ground beyond tolerance. It could be compensated for with thicker brake pads I suppose... did they do it that way for Ironheads?
Attached is a pic from page 2-20 of the OEM service manual. You'll recognize it. From the other pics of my bike frame I've posted, you can see the seat mount bracket (I presume) has been hacked off on top. The service manual page shows the bracket, but not the dimensions. I can refab the bracket with the pieces I have left, but the hole to hole dimensions are unknown. That's the problem.
On the brake hub... I'm jealous; you have a lathe. Wish I had one but I'm just building up my trade in shop tools after having pursued other interests for the middle part of my life. Your setup looks pretty much the same as the brake drum lathe we used to use in the automotive shop. I need and can do the same thing, but the issue comes when the drum is too wide and the brake pads cannot push out far enough to effectively create enough stopping power. On any car I have had drums on, there was always a maximum drum inner diameter that told you when the drum was ground beyond tolerance. It could be compensated for with thicker brake pads I suppose... did they do it that way for Ironheads?
Last edited by Yosemite; Jan 6, 2010 at 03:45 PM.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
Okay PG... back and going. Oh, I've built well over a hundred PC's in my day... piece of cake as you said. Its the software/hardware interface that can cause one to lose hair.. 8^)
Attached is a pic from page 2-20 of the OEM service manual. You'll recognize it. From the other pics of my bike frame I've posted, you can see the seat mount bracket (I presume) has been hacked off on top. The service manual page shows the bracket, but not the dimensions. I can refab the bracket with the pieces I have left, but the hole to hole dimensions are unknown. That's the problem.
On the brake hub... I'm jealous; you have a lathe. Wish I had one but I'm just building up my trade in shop tools after having pursued other interests for the middle part of my life. Your setup looks pretty much the same as the brake drum lathe we used to use in the automotive shop. I need and can do the same thing, but the issue comes when the drum is too wide and the brake pads cannot push out far enough to effectively create enough stopping power. On any car I have had drums on, there was always a maximum drum inner diameter that told you when the drum was ground beyond tolerance. It could be compensated for with thicker brake pads I suppose... did they do it that way for Ironheads?
Attached is a pic from page 2-20 of the OEM service manual. You'll recognize it. From the other pics of my bike frame I've posted, you can see the seat mount bracket (I presume) has been hacked off on top. The service manual page shows the bracket, but not the dimensions. I can refab the bracket with the pieces I have left, but the hole to hole dimensions are unknown. That's the problem.
On the brake hub... I'm jealous; you have a lathe. Wish I had one but I'm just building up my trade in shop tools after having pursued other interests for the middle part of my life. Your setup looks pretty much the same as the brake drum lathe we used to use in the automotive shop. I need and can do the same thing, but the issue comes when the drum is too wide and the brake pads cannot push out far enough to effectively create enough stopping power. On any car I have had drums on, there was always a maximum drum inner diameter that told you when the drum was ground beyond tolerance. It could be compensated for with thicker brake pads I suppose... did they do it that way for Ironheads?
This is how I measured the center to center of the holes on my frame......
The distance is 2-15/16 inch. Note that the seat hole is just about an inch behind (to the left) of the lower tank mount hole.
Speaking of lathes and shop tools.......... I sure wish I had this big guy when I rebuilt my Sportster.
I had the lathe then but did not get the Bridgeport until about 3 years back. So now there is not a lot that cannot be done around here between the two of them..........
Regarding the brake drums..........
OK, it is my understanding that the automotive brake drums have a maximum refacing specification because of the danger of the brake drum bursting if turned to to thin a wall thickness. Maybe I am wrong about that, but it has always been my belief for the turning limit stamped on each drum.
On the bike, the brakes are purely mechanical and use a cam to rotate and expand the shoes. So I do not think the turning of a motorcycle brake drum has any importance at all. I turned my front drum the minimum, because I want all the meat possible to remain.
I do not consider there is a limit of how much I can turn them (like exists on a car drum) as long as I have some metal left.
As with a cylinder boring..... I only do enough to clean up the drum. That saves more metal to allow future turnings.
pg
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 271
Likes: 13
From: OKC
Thanks PG.
If you look at the facing page in the service manual, you'll see your seat bracket and this one are different. That said, for all intents I would guess the seat mount hole to be about in the same place. In the newer bracket on mine, they just seem to have made one piece and laid it back instead of making two separate brackets like yours.
The page says 73' and later so if anyone with that year wants to take the time to verify for us, it would be cool.
Love that mill. Wish I had one... used to use one to do valve jobs and case boring, among other cool thing. Looks like it has NC as well... nice. Now I'm really jealous. ;^)
If you look at the facing page in the service manual, you'll see your seat bracket and this one are different. That said, for all intents I would guess the seat mount hole to be about in the same place. In the newer bracket on mine, they just seem to have made one piece and laid it back instead of making two separate brackets like yours.
The page says 73' and later so if anyone with that year wants to take the time to verify for us, it would be cool.
Love that mill. Wish I had one... used to use one to do valve jobs and case boring, among other cool thing. Looks like it has NC as well... nice. Now I'm really jealous. ;^)
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
In 1973 the frame changed quite a bit, This casting disappeared and what replaced it was a lighter section in this area and of course the seat attachment was changed to what yours looks like. No question about that.
pg
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
Likes: 17
From: Houston Texas
I pulled up that pic and added a couple of notes to it to better describe the frame casting. This looks to be a separate casting before the frame was built. It's demise in 1973 is no doubt an effort to reduce costs................
pg
pg
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 271
Likes: 13
From: OKC
yeah, you can see how it looks like a couple of seperate castings that the backbone tube fits into and is heat pressed or welded.
Take a look at this backbone pic of mine from the first post in this thread. You can see that I have a bolt tube welded under the frame and two supports rising vertically from that. I figure I can measure the angle before I cut the old ones off and then build a new set of side brackets with mounting holes the right distance apart and weld them back on with another tube in-between for the top.
Still, would be nice if someone with a 73 and later would take a pic of their mount and measure the distance between hole centerlines just to confirm. (hint, hint, 8^) )
Take a look at this backbone pic of mine from the first post in this thread. You can see that I have a bolt tube welded under the frame and two supports rising vertically from that. I figure I can measure the angle before I cut the old ones off and then build a new set of side brackets with mounting holes the right distance apart and weld them back on with another tube in-between for the top.
Still, would be nice if someone with a 73 and later would take a pic of their mount and measure the distance between hole centerlines just to confirm. (hint, hint, 8^) )