exhaust back pressure, or lack of.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: se ohio
those look like daniel boon controls,i bought a set of them ended up completely cutting them apart building something that worked then having them re-chromed, they just didnt work right, shifter was to close to the peg(couldnt get your foot between the shifter and the peg)looks like your master cyl. needs to be on the inside of your bracket, maybe it would line up with your pedal?
When i had them on my 1980 i spent a lot of time getting them to work, then like everyone else i scrapped them and went with something else.
Anyway, on the brake side mount the master cylinder in the stock position and connect it to the lever with a piece of 5/16" threaded rod and rod-ends [also called hiem joints]. 1/4" is not strong enough. The 5/16" never bent out of shape for me.
On the shifter side reverse the C-shaped piece so it faces the other way. Note that the end of the shift lever [that is attached to the shift shaft that comes out of the primary cover] moves in a circle. As it is pulled by the rod you want it to be pulled into the circle not out of it. Usually this means that the end of the lever should be approximately above [or below in some installations] the shift shaft. Yours looks correct in that regard.
It took me at least a few hours and much trial and error to get exactly the best rod length so that it would shift well. 1/4" longer or shorter makes a difference. I bought a few 3' lengths and i always cut each piece a little longer than what i thought was best and shortened to suit.
Cover the threaded rod with a piece of 3/8" ID chrome plumbing line from Home Depot or whereever.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 11,068
Likes: 1,473
From: Texas! Ya mean there's someplace else?
Daniel Boone was the name of the company that made 'em. I had a set made by someone else back in the mid '70s. They mounted to the front engine mounts rather than that cross-bar set-up. They were for a right-side shift, and were well made, but I had added a disc brake to my '72 CH and had some work to do to get everything like I needed. I also cut them up and moved them in closer to the bike, and set the shifter to be 1-up, 3-down as it worked better that way.
Use these as a starting point, and you can make them work. But check the welds! And see if yours uses bushings, too - makes a world of difference in smooth operations.
Use these as a starting point, and you can make them work. But check the welds! And see if yours uses bushings, too - makes a world of difference in smooth operations.
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: West Central Indiana
Ah wonderful, Daniel Boone huh? I ordered these through a cycle shop, but they are made by Custom Chrome. I didn't think I was gonna have to completely revamp them to use them though. The brake side is what is gonna be the problem. The master cylinder can't be mounted inside of the mount because it won't clear the pipe (even if I had the 1 3/4" pipes on it) and the lever won't line up with the plunger. It's too long and off to one side. If I use the master cylinder in the stock location it's gonna take a long rod with a lot of creative bending and probably a couple of support brackets or guides for the rod. It's gonna be a PITA either way it looks like.
I still have the not running right problem to boot. I'm gonna have to put off other things like cutting the grass and fighting with the neighbors and get my bike squared away. First things first right?
I still have the not running right problem to boot. I'm gonna have to put off other things like cutting the grass and fighting with the neighbors and get my bike squared away. First things first right?
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: West Central Indiana
That's a nice, clean looking setup that you fabbed up. I wish mine could be that easy.
I'm a long legged 6'3" so I can really use the extra reach and still not be out there too far for me. My controls will be mounted in front of the exhaust pipe and looks like they will stick out a little further from the bike than yours. At this point I'm about ready to reinstall the stock brake pedal and use that until I can come up with a better idea. I've also looked at using the stock brake pedal on the new controls instead of the lever and peg that comes with the kit. Any thoughts on that?
pococj, yes these use bushings on the brake and shift levers. They're kinda sloppy and have some play in them but at least they do have the bushings in them.
I'm a long legged 6'3" so I can really use the extra reach and still not be out there too far for me. My controls will be mounted in front of the exhaust pipe and looks like they will stick out a little further from the bike than yours. At this point I'm about ready to reinstall the stock brake pedal and use that until I can come up with a better idea. I've also looked at using the stock brake pedal on the new controls instead of the lever and peg that comes with the kit. Any thoughts on that?
pococj, yes these use bushings on the brake and shift levers. They're kinda sloppy and have some play in them but at least they do have the bushings in them.
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Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
From: West Central Indiana
Can you tell me how to change the pump setting? Other than the slow and fast idle speeds, I don't see any adjustments on this carb. I'm gonna have to remover the plugs for the other screws I guess.
So there is the idle speed, fast idle, and pilot screw adjustments. If no one has yet removed the plug for the pilot screw then you will have to do that.
I have not ever had to do it myself - all my bikes have had it done by a PO. I believe the technique is to carefully drill a small hole then twist a screw into the hole and withdraw the cap. The cap is very thin so not much drilling is required - going too far will wreck the pilot screw.
It would be better to hear from someone who has done it.