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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 04:42 PM
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Default New electrical problem

Finally got to ride my beast today when she stop running mid stride and now she won't start. She turns over just fine but shes not getting any spark and i'm not sure why any advice would be helpful, thanks.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 07:16 AM
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When you say not getting any spark, did you test by looking for spark? or is this your impression by the way it is not starting?

I check for spark in the shop with the lights off. Remove plugs and wires, install plugs in back in wires, set on cylinder heads, crank engine and look.

If no spark check the wires to the coil - the white wire [usually wrapped in a black sheath] should be 12 volts with the key on.

The other wire to the coil comes from the ignition. I don't know off hand any tests except to check it for looseness etc.

There are resistance tests in the manual for the coil, but the best test is to replace it with a known good one. It is useful to have a spare coil on hand for this purpose. Other useful spares are regulator, plug wires, new plugs, generator.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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I got a spark plug tester. No spark. It's this thing with an adjustable gap and a ground wire.

When I checked connections the rear jug plug was not tight. tightening didn't help.
 

Last edited by EvilWayz; Sep 4, 2010 at 12:02 PM. Reason: add picture
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Do you have 12 volts [or same as battery volts] at the coil/white wire?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 02:22 PM
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yes, i do.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 03:08 PM
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Electronic ignition or points?

For EI the resistance across the coil electrical terminals should be about 3 ohms; for points about 5 ohms. The resistance across the plug wire terminal connections should be between 16000 and 20000 ohms.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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ok the ignition works and i did those tests. its within the values you posted. what now?
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 09:12 PM
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No spark but the coil tests good and it is getting 12 volts. Could replace the spark plugs with new - but would both go bad at the same time?

What ignition is in there? Points or electronic? I do not know how to troubleshoot points; EI you really need to replace with a known good unit to know.
 
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Old Sep 4, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by EvilWayz
I got a spark plug tester. No spark. It's this thing with an adjustable gap and a ground wire.

When I checked connections the rear jug plug was not tight. tightening didn't help.
Those spark testers will give a false reading alotta times. your should use a plug in my opinion mr evil. Do as Mick said with the lights out trick. have someone assist you.

As far as points situation, (IF YOU HAVE POINTS..) the little round canister thing thats inside with your points setup, known as the condensor, is known to go bad alotta times. this little canister is only a few bucks and will cause you alot of grief! I think it does something to the signal wire that fires the coil. My buddy that helped with fixing my bike up stopped at auto parts on the way to my house that evening and bought one. he said HERE, put this in before the current one gives you problems. ALSO, another note on the points thing, the gentleman who was helping me said that the points are the same as the old chevy 6 cylinder motors? he didnt say what particular motor though?..

ALso, points gap oughta be around .018 to .020. TYPICALLY, the cover of a matchbook is roughly the same thickness as the 18-20 thousandths feeler guages. (thats for at the gas station type repairs..lol, on the fly in other words..)

Dunno if any of this did any good, but hopefully someone will get ya slicked up!
 
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Old Sep 5, 2010 | 02:22 AM
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i've got a electronic ignition, and i can confirm its working because timing led works. plugs are gapped at .35. well i guess i'm going to have to make me a friend and do the dark test. but there was oil i there when i opened up the cover would that confuse the electronic ignition?
 
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