Snapped Case Bolts?
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Snapped Case Bolts?
I discovered last year I had not one, but two Rear case bolts (farthest in the rear) that had broken off. in turn causing my case to leak from the bottom, Small compression leak. (only leaked when running) So my wonderful brother took it upon him self to (fix it) for me while I was away. (10 Months) when I returned home I asked him how he fixed it. He then tells me it was nothing a little liquid steel didnt fix. So I looked over his handy work and if he would have been standing next to me when I saw what he had done, lets just say I would have been going away a lot longer than 10 months. So this is how he (fixed it) it looks to me like he took liquid steel and put into the bolt holes and then slathered it over the holes, leaving the broken bolt (threaded end) still in the case. I pulled the engine out of the bike yesterday and have it sitting on the bench, how do I get the liquid steel off and out, and what is the best way to remove the broken bolts, I have about 2 1/2 inches of the bolt that broke off, it snapped just where the thread starts the rest of the bolt is still in the case. how long is it? and can I get them out with out pulling the whole case apart? Thanks in advance...
Daryl
Daryl
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so by your reply I can assume only the left side of the case is threaded? if I remove the right side of the case it should slide off the snapped bolts, exposing them? is this correct? and as far as the smeared liquid steel I should be able to just chip or grind that off?
Last edited by StrutinIronhead; Jan 20, 2011 at 12:45 PM.
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A similar event happened to my bike when in the hands of the PO. He had attempted to use an easy out, which in turn broke off. Then he just threaded the hole for an oversize bolt and, well, it did not leak so he must have decided that it was OK.
Anyway, yes, drill a small hole in the center of the bolt. Use the strongest bit you can get, probably a cobolt bit but check around. Drill very carefully as you do not want the bit to break off, and you want it dead center.
Then try to extract using an easy out. Note that you do not use a drill with an easy out. You use a ratching T-handle, same as is used for a tap. You want the type of easy out that looks like a reverse-thread drill bit.
In my limited experience i would say that unless you are experienced at this process, which i would guess you are not, you should not attempt it yourself. You should bring it to a shop with an experienced machinist. This will be cheaper than if the process messes up, and you need to split the cases.
If you split the caces, then if you get lucky, there will be enough bolt that you can grab with a locking plier or whatever. If not then the technique is to place a glob of weld onto the end of the stud, than use the locking plier or whatever.
In my case the first two welds broke; the stud came out on the third try. The man doing the work knew very well what he was doing. It was a very difficult task. I was fortunate to have him available to do this work. I ended up re-building the top end since the whole thing was apart.
$1500 to fix an oil leak.
Anyway, yes, drill a small hole in the center of the bolt. Use the strongest bit you can get, probably a cobolt bit but check around. Drill very carefully as you do not want the bit to break off, and you want it dead center.
Then try to extract using an easy out. Note that you do not use a drill with an easy out. You use a ratching T-handle, same as is used for a tap. You want the type of easy out that looks like a reverse-thread drill bit.
In my limited experience i would say that unless you are experienced at this process, which i would guess you are not, you should not attempt it yourself. You should bring it to a shop with an experienced machinist. This will be cheaper than if the process messes up, and you need to split the cases.
If you split the caces, then if you get lucky, there will be enough bolt that you can grab with a locking plier or whatever. If not then the technique is to place a glob of weld onto the end of the stud, than use the locking plier or whatever.
In my case the first two welds broke; the stud came out on the third try. The man doing the work knew very well what he was doing. It was a very difficult task. I was fortunate to have him available to do this work. I ended up re-building the top end since the whole thing was apart.
$1500 to fix an oil leak.
Last edited by IronMick; Jan 20, 2011 at 01:38 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: rural ontario
I agree with easy-out.
I would still take the case apart and redo the seal between the cases It is already compromised and will just get worse. Might as well do it while you have it out and be done. I rebuilt the motor on mine this past year just because it started to leak at the seal between the cases...once something fails the rest is just as old.
I would still take the case apart and redo the seal between the cases It is already compromised and will just get worse. Might as well do it while you have it out and be done. I rebuilt the motor on mine this past year just because it started to leak at the seal between the cases...once something fails the rest is just as old.