I am adding blinkers and a horn on my early 84 iron. Now I traced out the 2 fuses on my bike one is for the gen the other is for the lights, ign and brake(led). Now can I add a horn and the new led blinkers on my bike the bobber did not hve any these before on one fuse.Now I know I would have to run this wire up to the load side of the key so the function would work when the key is on.Also I did realize that the gen has 12v allthe time and the coil is only energized when the key is on, is this okay?I do have manual but looking for easiest and safe way Thanks

 

Circuit breakers are better than fuses.

The ignition should be on a separate circuit from the lights etc - you do not want the ignition to shut down because of a short in a lights or accessory wire.

The gen does not have 12 volts. It puts out 10 amps to the regulator, which then uses what is needed to keep the battery charged and dumps the rest to ground. The other wire from the gen operates the gen light.

Run a wire from batt+ to a 30 amp breaker, from the breaker to the B ignition key terminal; then from the L ignition key terminal to the LIGHTS breaker and from the IG ignition key terminal to both the IGN breaker and the ACC breaker.

Now you have power from the batt to the ig key switch, and from the switch to both ACC and IGN breakers at the first key stop, plus from the switch to the LIGHTS breaker at the second key stop.

So now you can run stuff from the two breakers however you wish.

Note that the LIGHTS breaker circuit is not active at the first key stop, so for example hook up the headlite here so that it is not on while starting the bike.

 

See the wiring was redone and trying to trace out the wiring is tough I already traced out one wire and went to the gen from the fuse I do have 12v there this is a cycle elec with the reg on front now I will do a better job tracining but will run another wire off the battary

 

I traced out the wires again and did find that there is 2 wires alredy coming off the battary to 2 breakers. I disconnected one and there is no power going to the gen (reg)front of the gen. Now when I disconnect the other one on the other fuse there is no lights and no ign at all. Iguess I will have to trace out the headlight wire and change that or leave it alone and all other wiring I should do as you suggested. What do you suggest and what size wire should I use Thanks Iron

 

I drew out your diagram on a piece of paper and looks simple and is the easiest way to wire the bike. The bike wiring seems to have a custom wiring with black covering on the wires. Now I am going to have to change the lights wiring to get that off the ign . You are right the first click with the key can start the bike without the lights and the second click turns on the lights and can still start the bike . How ever who ever had the bike before me put a togglle switch center off on and on for lites and high beam. because there was no controls for blinkers horn and directionals so now I am adding the controls for horn and blinkers thanks again

 

The wiring for the CE gen/reg combo is different from a regular gen and reg, and i am not familiar with it. You can get more info here ...

http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/

There is a CE reg/gen combo, and also a CE reg that installs on the end of a normal gen. You will have to determine which you have. In either case these are amoung the best you can get.

The wires between the 30 amp breaker and the battery, ignition key switch, and starter relay should be red 12 gauge. The wire between the relay and the solenoid should be green 12 gauge. The lights need only 18 gauge although you coud use 16. The rest can be 16 gauge.

Here is my word description of the diagram for my 1978 ...

1[a] GREEN from generator F to voltage regulator
1[b] TAN from generator A to voltage regulator
1[c] TAN from generator A to BLACK at generator lamp

2[a] ORANGE from voltage regulator to connector, then ...
2[b] RED from connector thru MAIN cb to battery +ve
2[c] RED from MAIN cb to starter relay
2[d] RED from MAIN cb to ignition switch B terminal

Note: current passes thru MAIN cb in reverse direction along 2[b] to charge battery

3[a] RED from battery +ve to MAIN circuit breaker [same wire as 2[b]
3[b] BLACK from battery +ve to solenoid long stud
3[c] BLACK from solenoid short stud to starter motor

4[a] WHITE from ignition switch IG terminal [1st key stop] to IGN cb and ACC cb
4[b] GREEN from ignition switch L terminal [2nd key stop] to LIGHTS cb

Note: IG and L are connected by a small GREEN [sg]; at 2nd key stop both IG and L are 12 volts, even with sg removed. So, with sg removed anything connected to IGN, ACC or MAIN will come on at first key stop; anything connected to LIGHTS comes on only at second key stop - a simple, useful modification, especially so that the headlite is not on while using the starter motor.

Two BLUE from LIGHTS cb:
5[a] to rear wire harness connector then GREEN to tail light
5[b] to headlite dimmer switch and thru connector RED to speedo and tach lights

Two wires from headlite dimmer switch:
5[c] yellow to low beam
5[d] white to high beam and high beam indicator

Two ORANGE from ACC cb:
6[a] to rear stoplight switch
6[b] to ORANGE wire connector in headlite bucket

Five ORANGE from ORANGE wire connector:
6[c] to diode, thru connector to BLACK to oil lamp & gen lamp, and to a free spot in connector
6[d] to turn signal flasher
6[e] to front stop light switch
6[f] to the horn switch
6[g] loops back into connector itself to service four free spots in connector

6[h] GREEN from oil lamp to oil pressure switch
6[i] GREEN from flasher to a connector, then two GREEN from connector to left and right turn signal buttons, then VIOLET and BROWN to left and right turn signal lamps

RED from rear stop light switch to rear wire harness connector
RED from front stop light switch to rear wire harness connector
RED from rear wire harness connector to stop lamp

7[a] GRAY from IGN cb thru headlite bucket to RUN switch

Two WHITE from RUN switch:
7[b] to ignition coil [12 volts when key and RUN are both on]
7[c] to START button [12 volts when key and RUN are both on]

7[d] BLACK from START button to starter relay [12 volts while START button is pressed] which results in ...
7[e] GREEN from starter relay RED 2[c] to solenoid small terminal
7[f] Solenoid activates, passing 12 volts along two BLACKs [i]from battery to solenoid 3[b] and [ii] from solenoid to starter motor 3[c]

 

I have a ce gen and reg combo. Iron for now I am going to leave the 2 breakers for now but add 2 more for the blinkers , horn and brake lite. Now can I just take it off the ign of the switch for now untill I pull the motor out and repaint the frame during the winter and redo the wiring then. Tracing out the wire is tough for now cause I will have to pull wires out and redirect them to different areas Thanks

 

For the blinkers and the horn, yes, you could use the IG terminal of the key switch.

I would ue the L terminal of the key switch so there would be less chance of interference with the ignition if there were a short. Occasionally signal wires get caught between the fender and the rail, or get rubbed by a tire.

 

Thanks again also is there markings on these breakers if so where? and also do these reset on there own when they cool down. On the posts there is a copper stud and a silver stud I guess that the line comming goes to the copper post?

I still don't understand the other breaker on my bike, the one wire from the bat goes to the breaker then goes to the gen / reg. I used a 12v tester and there is voltage there when the key is off and the coil has no voltage when the key is off as it should

 

Somewhere there will be an engraved/embossed 15 or 30 on the breakers for the amps. You may have to clean off some oxidation/grease/whatever.

Yes, the copper terminal in the input side, the silver is the output side.

the one wire from the bat goes to the breaker then goes to the gen / reg

The flow is from the gen to the reg, then in reverse direction thru the main 30 amp breaker to the battery. Some guys run this directly to the bat bypassing the breaker [gen to reg to bat]. I do not know why HD ran it thru the breaker like this.

The generator is producing 10 amps; the reg passes only enough to keep the batt charged and dumps the rest to ground; the bike runs off the batt.

Note that if the reg is not well grounded it will cook itself to death from being unable to dump the excess to ground. This is why many of us run and extra ground wire from the reg.