it happened once again, my kickstart slipped on me when i wasnt expecting it and messed up my knee. ill be walking with a limp for another week or so. this time i decided to pull it apart once and for all. got it off and examined the teeth and they were pretty bad. i just ordered a new kit with a ratchet plate, kick gear, and bushing.

my ques is, how do i go about riviting this plate to the back of the clutch housing? ive been told that there is a machine that does it, but you can do it urself if you know how? i know it hs to be really tight before you rivit it and your rivits have to be in there good (a little obvious).

should i attempt this myself? if not , who should i ask to do this? will the harley dealer do this?

any answers would be greatly appreciated. TY

 

terrapin98K.....
What year model XLH do you have? If it is a 1974 or earlier, I can send you the factory instructions on how to replace the starter gear. This will actually require having a press to do it correctly.
You may want a shop to do it instead, that's your call. If it's an old ironhead, a Harley shop may not do it. I bet they will not touch the project, especially if you show up holding your own parts purchased elsewhere.

Most independent shops will do ithe work. Just BE CERTAIN they are capable of doing ironhead work before you commit.
I would do it myself if if I were you. Keep in mind that even after you replace the gear(s), you are not safe. What causes this to fail to engage properly is the built in slop in the gear fitting on the shaft, and the ever present spring pressure that assures when the engine cranks that the gear is fully released back to it's normal place, free of the starter gear.. Especially in cold weather, the oil will cause the gear to hang up on the shaft before full engagement is made. (It is really not a case of worn gears, unless the teeth are really gone.)

Here is how the normal drill goes:
You go to start it and push down on the crank lever to get the engine on compression and to engage the gear. Next we jump up and take pressure off the start lever for a split second. That gear (that is not correctly engaged before anyway) now gets attention from the ever present spring pressure and the gear moves back towards the trans, disengageing fully. You come down hard expecting to feel resistance but there is none. Once the plunge has started, it is too late to stop things. You are well aware of the results of that action. The last bout I had with mine resulted in a torn ligament. I did not walk again for the next 6 weeks without a set of crutches. My first 'slip of the gears' was in 1957 or '58. Being much younger I healed quickly, and I had it happen a lot of times. But these days thats not the case.

I did not replace any gears. I just re-trained myself to be aware of this each time I crank my '71 up. I no longer jump up in the air to accomplish a strong kick thru. Instead I find the compression point and never release pressure off the start lever. This takes a certain amount of concentrated thought for me, but I have not had it slip once as long as I use this method and I am used to doing so now.
Email me at wb_perry@yahoo.com if you can use the service procedure. I will scan it and send it to you as a PFD file........pg

 

thank you for your insight
its a 74 xlch. so your saying that even if i replace the gears, it might still slip? as it is, i find compression, and even if i keep consistent pressure on it, it slips about half way through the stroke. the teeth are about gone.i will still replace the gears. i found an independent shop to do the work for a great price. thanks again for the info.
another ques, would it help if i found a stronger spring? or would this cause it to not return?

 

terrapin...
If it slips as you describe, then yes, the gears need replacing.
If you have found a shop and are happy with the cost of repair, that is the way to go. You will be riding before you know it.

When you push down the start lever, the start shaft gear moves to the left to engage with the clutch hub starter gear. This is done with a cam action and pushes against the spring pressure. A stronger spring (if one were available) would not help you. If anything it would cause the gear engagement to pop out even easier. The problem lies with the fact that the gears are not properly engaging, and in your case, are now worn out.

After the gear replacement is done it will still be possible to get the 'Sporty Knee' so develope a habit as I described and you will be set............pg

 

thank you pinion, youve been a great help. i will adapt a habit to kick it over more reliably. TY