81 XLH points or electronic???
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: new Jerssy
Mick
That makes sense. I'll have to chase down the wiring again and find a power source for the coil. The bike came with a new wiring harness and a shop manual which was a huge plus. Right now the coil has one two white wires on one side and a blue wire on the other. I'm guessing that they can be eliminated but I'll check to be sure.
Once the wiring and points are figured out, i'll install and adjust the push rods, reconnect the exhaust fill all the fluids and see if this thing will fire up.
Any advice for the initial fire up? It has new rings and the heads were supposedly done by the previous owner.
That makes sense. I'll have to chase down the wiring again and find a power source for the coil. The bike came with a new wiring harness and a shop manual which was a huge plus. Right now the coil has one two white wires on one side and a blue wire on the other. I'm guessing that they can be eliminated but I'll check to be sure.
Once the wiring and points are figured out, i'll install and adjust the push rods, reconnect the exhaust fill all the fluids and see if this thing will fire up.
Any advice for the initial fire up? It has new rings and the heads were supposedly done by the previous owner.
My procedure to start up a fresh build is:
1. turn the key on and check all the lights, including the indicator lights, and the horn
2. crank the engine using the starter motor [or kickstarter] with no plugs in; if it has electronic ignition there must be plugs in the leads and grounded on the cylinder heads
3. crank the engine with plugs in but not connected to the wires; if it has electronic ignition there must be plugs in the leads and grounded on the cylinder heads; i use an old spare set for this
4. crank the engine with the plugs in, connected, hoping it will start
1 is a basic test; during 2 and 3 i am listening for sounds that i do not want to hear; during 2 it should spin freely; during 3 it should spin more slowly.
The documentation that comes with the Crane Hi-4 electronic ignition recommends never cranking the engine without grounded spark plugs in the leads. I assume this to be true for all EIs even tho it may not be.
1. turn the key on and check all the lights, including the indicator lights, and the horn
2. crank the engine using the starter motor [or kickstarter] with no plugs in; if it has electronic ignition there must be plugs in the leads and grounded on the cylinder heads
3. crank the engine with plugs in but not connected to the wires; if it has electronic ignition there must be plugs in the leads and grounded on the cylinder heads; i use an old spare set for this
4. crank the engine with the plugs in, connected, hoping it will start
1 is a basic test; during 2 and 3 i am listening for sounds that i do not want to hear; during 2 it should spin freely; during 3 it should spin more slowly.
The documentation that comes with the Crane Hi-4 electronic ignition recommends never cranking the engine without grounded spark plugs in the leads. I assume this to be true for all EIs even tho it may not be.
The other white wire runs from the coil to the module bringing 12 volts to the module. It can be eliminated.
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: new Jerssy
This afternoon I'll wire it for the points and eliminate that blue wire and one of the white wires. I'm so glad this thing came with the book and the wiring diagram.
One more thing on the initial start up. We put in new rings and had the cylinders honed. What sort of break in should we use? It is running a brand new S&S Super E that we set up for inital start up and I'll work out tuning it once the motor is broken in.
What do you recommend for breaking in the motor? It isn't road worthy yet so I wont be able to take it down the road.
One more thing on the initial start up. We put in new rings and had the cylinders honed. What sort of break in should we use? It is running a brand new S&S Super E that we set up for inital start up and I'll work out tuning it once the motor is broken in.
What do you recommend for breaking in the motor? It isn't road worthy yet so I wont be able to take it down the road.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
