Sporty died
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 100
Likes: 18
From: '71 XLCH / '74 XLH
you got a few things going on here that are not understood yet.....
So are you saying, after all the previous events, you then went for a 20 mile ride & your battery now reads 0v ? Or have I mis-understood you ?
Regardless, it sounds like you have something draining your battery.
Put your multimeter on it, set to 10 AMPs scale, (it does have a 10 AMPs scale doesn't it ?) & read the number of AMPs being pulled from the battery with the key off. It should read "0" zero..... but does it ?
Now turn the key on (no lights, run switch on, don't attempt to start it) it should read somewhere around 2-3 AMPs.... but does it ?
So are you saying, after all the previous events, you then went for a 20 mile ride & your battery now reads 0v ? Or have I mis-understood you ?
Regardless, it sounds like you have something draining your battery.
Put your multimeter on it, set to 10 AMPs scale, (it does have a 10 AMPs scale doesn't it ?) & read the number of AMPs being pulled from the battery with the key off. It should read "0" zero..... but does it ?
Now turn the key on (no lights, run switch on, don't attempt to start it) it should read somewhere around 2-3 AMPs.... but does it ?
Last edited by The Doctor71; Feb 5, 2012 at 01:52 PM.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Bellmawr NJ
Sorry for being unclear, the original battery drain happened on a 20 mile ride, which was thursday. I charged the battery yesterday and ran the bike today for 5 miles with no issues. Previous to the 20 mile ride the bike had been running and starting with no issues or slow degradation for a month, which is when I stopped using my grip heaters which did drain the battery if I used them 2-3 times. They are completely off the bike now. This is why I am surprised that it got me to work (20 miles) and started like a champ for the ride home (the 20 miles where it drained).
My multimeter has a non-contact ammeter and automatically switches so I will check that out next time I go outside. Would I put the ammeter around the ground wire or the positive?
My multimeter has a non-contact ammeter and automatically switches so I will check that out next time I go outside. Would I put the ammeter around the ground wire or the positive?
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 410
Likes: 127
From: Iowa
I turned it off and tried again. Lights are on but bike wouldn't start. I jiggled the kill switch and midway between off and run, the bike started up. Took it for a 5 mile ride, battery still at 12v but still need to rock the kill switch when starting.
Would a sticky or bad kill switch completely drain the battery?
Looking at the wiring diagram, I don't see how a bad kill switch could drain the battery, but I'm no expert. All it appears to do is provide +12 volts to the coil when in the "run" position, and remove the +12 volts from the coil when in the "stop" position.
Your bike turns over when trying to start with the battery charged, right? And you have to jiggle the kill switch to actually get it to start?
I don't know why your battery drained to 0 volts on your 20 mile ride home from work. I think something else is going on to drain the battery that fast.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 100
Likes: 18
From: '71 XLCH / '74 XLH
thx for clarifying that 20 mile ride & the sequence of events.
as far as your ammeter goes, either wire (+ or -) should work but I'm not there & can't see how your ammeter reacts.
My really old-school analog ammeter, which has to go in-line in the circuit, works on either + or -, the only caveat is you switch (reverse) the leads on mine when working the + side then going to the - side. I imagine your newer meter would switch automatically..... but I'm not there..... so try one side first (either + or -), then switch to the opposite side if your ammeter is not reacting the way you expect.
Personally, I usually start to troubleshoot electrical issues from the -ve side, but ONLY because the -ve battery post is easier to access.
If you're seeing a 0 (zero) AMP drain with the key off.... be sure to switch to a milli-amp scale (if your meter doesn't switch automatically) & re-take a reading. The whole idea, of this 1st step, is to confirm:
as far as your ammeter goes, either wire (+ or -) should work but I'm not there & can't see how your ammeter reacts.
My really old-school analog ammeter, which has to go in-line in the circuit, works on either + or -, the only caveat is you switch (reverse) the leads on mine when working the + side then going to the - side. I imagine your newer meter would switch automatically..... but I'm not there..... so try one side first (either + or -), then switch to the opposite side if your ammeter is not reacting the way you expect.
Personally, I usually start to troubleshoot electrical issues from the -ve side, but ONLY because the -ve battery post is easier to access.
If you're seeing a 0 (zero) AMP drain with the key off.... be sure to switch to a milli-amp scale (if your meter doesn't switch automatically) & re-take a reading. The whole idea, of this 1st step, is to confirm:
- the battery REALLY is being drained with the key off, and
- how large is that drain (aka is it draining at some small milli-amp rate or larger AMP rate)
Last edited by The Doctor71; Feb 9, 2012 at 11:13 AM.
I would open up the handlebar switches, spray all inside with electrical contracts cleaner [to clean out the bug bodies, spider webs, etc], examine to locate the bad connection.
The right handlebar switch housing is particularly tedious because of the brake light switch. I do not like to mess with it, and i do my best to ensure that it does not disconnect while i am working in there. Before i remove the bolts i wrap a length of stiff 14 gauge wire [stripped out of household electrical cable] around it and the h-bar so that it will not fall down when the last bolt comes out.
The right handlebar switch housing is particularly tedious because of the brake light switch. I do not like to mess with it, and i do my best to ensure that it does not disconnect while i am working in there. Before i remove the bolts i wrap a length of stiff 14 gauge wire [stripped out of household electrical cable] around it and the h-bar so that it will not fall down when the last bolt comes out.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
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From: Bellmawr NJ
Thats a good tip with the wire to hold the housing to the handlebar. I had to replace the stoplight switch and it was a bit of pain, I did clean the inside out with WD40 but did not clean the contacts.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,035
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From: Houston Texas
What is going on at the other location ?
It has been down all day Tuesday.
pg
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: rural ontario
ohhhh.
Is that how I was supposed to word it?
it makes for a long cold winter when there are online technical issues beyond our control.
I'll know for next time.
hahaha
Last edited by scottfisher; Feb 7, 2012 at 05:30 PM. Reason: spelling like a 2yr old