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Starter issues with my 68' sportster ironhead

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 10:11 AM
  #11  
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Hey Mick .... Been there and done that with my 79 FXEF ... it sure is one way to learn "everything" about your scooter .... Good Luck with your project!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:15 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 68_sporty_89
Well I took the primary cover off to get a better look at the starter assembly and when I hit the starter button I hear the solenoid click and I can see the be Bendix begin to move towards the ring gear but that's as far as it goes, it barely moves out and doesn't engage, and I hooked up a voltmeter to the battery and it had 12.13 volts with out ignition on, it had 11.79 volts with the ignition on and the voltage dropped down to 10.49 volts on average and got as low a 9.78 volts when I hit the starter button. I'm getting close so what do you guys think now that I have narrowed down the problem?
When you hit the starter button, and your battery is good and strong (12.13 Volts seems low to me for a battery at rest), the solenoid should jerk the plunger in smartly, kicking the pinion gear (bendix) out smartly to engage the clutch ring gear. It's a pretty simple arrangement: The coil of the solenoid energizes when you push the starter button and pulls the plunger in, which pulls one end of the "shifter lever" in. The shifter lever pivots on a screw, so the other end of the shifter lever pushes the bendix out toward the ring gear.

With your primary cover off, (and the battery cable disconnected from the long stud of the solenoid), can you push the plunger into the solenoid with your finger and cause the bendix to move out far enough to engage the ring gear, or does it bind on something? If nothing's binding, I'd try jumping a battery to the one in the bike to make sure it isn't just a weak battery causing all this.

The primary cover supports the outside end of the starter shaft, so I can see why you woudn't want to run the starter without the primary cover in place. You might break the starter shaft housing if the starter shaft tries to lift up when the starter motor starts turning. Or chew up some non-meshing gear teeth, maybe.

Ironmick, I'm sure you'll be successful in your project. Have fun.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:08 PM
  #13  
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Sounds like either A: Battery is weak. or B: Solenoid is on it's way out. You can buy the rebuild kits for the solenoid. I had the same problem on my 80 Ironhead (it has points also) and the contacts inside the solenoid were somewhat melted and the plunger was black. I would pull the solenoid and take it apart, check the contacts and plunger.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 08:10 PM
  #14  
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Also the starter relay can be found by following the small wire off the solenoid. It will be the next thing in line before the switch.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 09:29 PM
  #15  
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When you dismantle the solenoid - It is redious to get it back together. The parts are spring-loaded, and there are square or rectangular connections to line up with square or rectangular openings in the cap. And ensure that the wires are free inside.

Not impossible; difficult is the incorrect word. But tedious is correct. So be prepared. Take your time; Note carefully how things were as you dismantle.

Use spray can electrical contacts cleaner. If the terminals are burned you may be able to simply rotate them to use the good side. I have done this.

A large copper washer in there is a better part than the steel washer in the replacement kits and in the new after market solenoids.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 11:49 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by IronMick
When you dismantle the solenoid - It is redious to get it back together. The parts are spring-loaded, and there are square or rectangular connections to line up with square or rectangular openings in the cap. And ensure that the wires are free inside.

Not impossible; difficult is the incorrect word. But tedious is correct. So be prepared. Take your time; Note carefully how things were as you dismantle.

Use spray can electrical contacts cleaner. If the terminals are burned you may be able to simply rotate them to use the good side. I have done this.

A large copper washer in there is a better part than the steel washer in the replacement kits and in the new after market solenoids.
True, be patient. There is a wire iside that is easy to break off the stud also. Make sure you loosen the stud nuts before dismantling it. I actually wire wheeled my plunger and disc instead of replacing. Like you said IronM the replacement is steel. The OEM copper is better. And look where the pin is, some plunger shafts have 2 holes. Good luck.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 05:36 AM
  #17  
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Well I'm pretty sure the solenoid is not the problem I just bought it brand new from my local harley dealer last week I'm gonna get the battery tested today
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 05:36 AM
  #18  
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Oh and I can move the starter gear out to the ring gear by pushing on the spring it doesn't bind and moves pretty smoothly
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 07:35 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 68_sporty_89
... I'm gonna get the battery tested today
Use your own battery charger to bring the battery up to full charge before bringing it to a shop to be tested. The testing process drains the charge from the battery; if it is not fully charged at the beginning a good battery may test as not good.

Do not let them use a quick charge to charge up your battery. Too many amps in too short of times - OK for a big car battery.

Do you have a liquid filled battery or a maintenance free model? If liquid filled be sure it is topped up before you put it on the charger.

Better still go to Harbor Freight or Princess Auto and buy your own battery tester. On sale days they will be half price - about $40. Nice tool to have at hand.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #20  
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Got the battery tested, it was bad. I bought a new battery, put the new battery in the bike and put nit back together and the bike cra med over just fine.
 
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