Do you buy your parts/acc?
With my tax refund on its way (yay!) I'm lookin' to get my new seat (leaning towards a Corbin solo), carb, and handlebars/riser.

J&P has all of this stuff, but, when I talk to thier people I always get the feeling I know more about the equipment than they do, and that's not a whole lot which kinda scares me. Not to mention I've heard their prices are higher than others. My question I guess is this: Who are these others and where are they hiding?

Also, which carb is more preferred? S&S or Bendix and for what reasons. I know theoretically I could rebuild the carb I've got now, but, I've never been good at small parts like needles etc so I'd ruther just spend the $$ and get something I *know* is gonna work the first try.

I'm looking at having my wheels relaced, and suggestions on price range and who does it? I talked to my local stealership and they wanted more to relace my rims than it would cost if I bought new laced rims at J&P, so I'm guessing that Kutter HD's not the place to go<g>. The rims themselves have some pitting as well, mebbe I should just break down and buy a new set?

Another stoopid ?, for all around travel (I try to avoid rain) which tire do you like on your bike? Kinda leaning towards the Metzler, but, if someone has a different suggestion I'm willing to listen. The tires I have on now have *got* to go, that much cracking along the bead and tread can't be a good thing<G>

I'm sure I'll have more stupid chit pop into my head as I get further into this rebuild, but, this should be enough for now.

Thanks,

Wolf

 

Hey Sam,
With regards to your question about new wheels.....it sounds like you have priced new ones from J&P.
Why don't you price out what the bare rims would cost? Do you need new spokes also, or the ones you have good enough?
What I am getting at is you can build your own wheels if you care to try it. All you would need in the way of tools is:
spoke wrench
feeler gage set
wheel stand (this could be made at home)
Since you need 2 wheels it may be a lot cheaper to build your own rather than buy. Price the parts and let that guide you as to what you decide to do.
If you want to have someone build them, try going to a dirt bike shop and get a price on it. I think (not sure) that they would be cheaper than an HD dealer.

I just finished building myself a 21 inch front wheel. I bought an Ankront aluminum rim, which was over $200. I also bought a set of polished stainless steel spokes from Buchanan which set me back another $156. So, here I was with $356(+) bucks in parts, and that's all I had.......... parts.

Having someone build this wheel was out of the question for me so I quickly made a homemade wheel stand and got it done in pretty short order. The one hold up was because I first bought the spokes from J&P and when they got here they were the wrong size. Had to return them and then reorder fron Buchanan.

Now I could have bought this wheel new from HD for about $450 dollars but it would not have an aluminum rim nor SS spokes with it..........pg


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Heya Blake,
Yeah, the spokes are pretty god awful. The bike was neglected before I got it and there's a few spokes I just don't trust, I'm sure they're actually fine, but, I see a lot ofcrud on 'em that just won't come off. (stainless spokes)

As far as relacing them myself, how hard was it to true 'em up? I used to work at a bicycle shop and lacing/truing those rims was a PITA.

Also, I'm thinkin' the rims on the bike as it sits aren't factory as J&P lists the sizes as 19 front and 16 rear...I'm pretty sure my front is 18 and rear is 16.
The more I get into this thing the more I confuse myself, but, I refuse to take it somewhere and get charged thru the nose for work I know I can do<g>

I'm 'bout ready to say the heck w/it and just paint the rims and spokes black and blend 'em in with the paint scheme I'm going to put on the bike.

Thanks again,

Wolf

 

OK Sam......
Since you have laced wheels before and found it a pain, it has not gotten any easier. It still could be a pain for you.
I learned to build wheels while employed at a bicycle shop a few years back. I really liked the drill, but a lot of guys do not. Building a sickle wheel is the same thing as building a bicycle wheel, it's just got heavier spokes and nipples.

The wheel stuff really runs into money in a hurry. The spokes are the worst expense if you choose to use stainless. I suspect your present spokes are cad plated rather than SS because SS would clean up beautiful with just a little touch of solvent. The cad spokes are ruined the first time they get corroded and you cannot bring them back.
A coat of paint will be the cheapest way to improve the wheels. Even if your spokes are corroded they are still servicable and should serve you well. I'd only replace those that are broken, if any are..................pg

 

Hey Blake, Thanks for the reply. Heh, if I still had the machine we used at Trek to spoke wheels I'd probably do it myself, but, by hand it stinks<g>.

None of the spokes have broke or corroded that bad (knock on wood!) so I'll probably opt for the "Paint 'em and forget 'em" theory.

So now that I have my wheel issue figured out, which carb and tires do you prefer?<g>

Wolf, what can I say...yer just too knowledgable for me not to ask<eg>

 

Hey Sam...
I have experience with Bendix and that is what I run on mine. I have no experience with S&S, but these are good carbs if you want to spend the money to get an S&S. If you do, pay attention to what the cable and throttle hook up is on an S&S compared to what you now have on the bike.
There could be a difference that requires you to purchase another type of throttle to use with that. Pay attention to how the throttle cable approaches the throttle on the S&S because where the butterfly is located is important. You want it to actuate in the same direction as your current Bendix. There are two different throttle cams available that fit inside the handlebars if you still have the enclosed cable. One is a pull to open and the other is a push to open. These cams were used as was required by whatever carb was put on the bike. A Bendix uses a pull to open and a Tillotson used a push to open. An S&S....I am not sure.

For tires, I have no experience with Metzlers either but they are good tires. I have always run Dunlops on my Sportster and they too, are good tires. Either brand will be a fine tire and you will be happy with it. If yours are showing cracks then it is time to get some new ones soon.
Oh, Trek bikes huh? That is a fine Wisconsin product! My wife and I have two of them. Later..................pg

 

Get a newer stock CV carb with an adapter, I did a simple rejet and I've never had a problem with mine. and I have dual throttle cables too.

 

I personally would to rebuilt to old carb or buy used CV they work.
AFFE has pics
About tyres I have used Michelin Madcam tyres in front and back Dunlops are very slippery at rain and cold weather ( yes I do ride also in bad weather)

 

You might want to take a look at Custom Chrome, but shop carefully. Some of their stuff is really good and priced right, some is absolute crap.

S&S carbs work very well and they don't leak like a Bendix sometimes does. Since riding to the Yuma Prison run a couple of years ago, I have a special liking for the S&S air filter too. The OL was riding a blockhead Sportster with dual ignition and the right rear sparkplug blew out the ceramic. If she still had the round filter the bike came with, it would have shot through her leg, but the S&S I had installed the year before blocked it.

As for tires, you might want to look into Avons. At least for me, they have the right combination of sticky and long lasting.