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I have a 84 ironhead and previous owner installed points for the bike. The bike runs good but I want to put grease on the weights and my question is can I just mark the point mounting plate and take out then put grease on the mounting and then reinstall the mounting plate with out readjusting the points Thanks
That's typically what I do and always fires right up again and runs well. But I'm sure it could possibly cause the timing to change just a smige, so I guess it would be advisable to throw the timing light on and recheck.
If I mark the plate and the inside the cone how would the timing go off Just wondering. Also what type of grease do you use on the pivot of the magnets ? thanks
If I mark the plate and the inside the cone how would the timing go off Just wondering. Also what type of grease do you use on the pivot of the magnets ? thanks
Mark it as you say and then put it back together.
Make sure you have the points gap to spec (or that will change the timing) and you should be good to go.
If the timing changes at all it will not be enough to affect anything.
For grease go to your auto parts house and buy a small tube of ignition grease. That will not be slung off.
pg
pg I was wondering that if I dont touch the points at all and the they are tight they shouldnot move at all correct? What I am trying to do is do one thing at a time because every bke likesthings different I was going to check the points later on during the winter months Like I said the bke runs fine Thanks again
pg I was wondering that if I dont touch the points at all and the they are tight they shouldnot move at all correct? What I am trying to do is do one thing at a time because every bke likesthings different I was going to check the points later on during the winter months Like I said the bke runs fine Thanks again
Theoretically speaking, the points should not change.
Actual practice may be a different result.
You are removing the points base plate and while the points are not moved on the base plate, you will be reinstalling the base plate which involves putting two screws into the threaded holes, the pivot pin in it's hole, and dealing with that slot you marked before dis-assembly.
End result? Most likely the point gap will change to some extent, but easily checked with a feeler gage.
The ideal points gap is .018 on both cam lobes.
This is probably not going to happen, so adjust the gap equally on both lobes. The maximum difference allow between gaps is .004.
As an example....... Suppose you measure one gap at.018. Perfect!
Now measure the other cam lobe points gap and you find it to be .014. Not so good!
So what you will do in this case is change the first gap from .018 to .020.
Doing that will result in the other gap moving from .014 to .016.
This is a much better balance as now both cylinders are within .002 of each side of that ideal gap of .018.
That is how it works.
If you have a greater difference in gaps than .004 you either have a worn out ignition cam (needs replacing in that case) or you have not seated the advance properly on the shaft (remove and re-seat in this case).
So what I recommend is measuring the point gaps now.
Then dis-assemble (remove the backing plate).
Replace the points and backing plate after lubing the weights, and then check the gaps again.
As long as you line up the mark you made the timing will not change (enough to affect the timing at any rate) and things should work well.
Good luck with it.
pg
No, it makes no difference which cam lobe you check first.
The sharp lobe is the front cylinder and the fat lobe is the rear cylinder.
Just get the points foot on the highest part of each lobe when you check the gap.
pg
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