Oil flow loss
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 44
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From: Newberg, Oregon
Still not flowing
Ok I removed the pump again changed the check valve, and checked the O-rings they are new and in good shape. I drained the tank and checked for blockages in the new lines, they are fine. Started it and I had pressure... It was returning oil to the tank via the hose in the filler neck. After several seconds the pressure light came on and the oil flow to the tank becomes intermittent. as in it squirts oil then air... When it works properly it squirts a pretty steady streem with a pulse, probably a half cup in 20 secs. I removed the sending unit and let it pump about an ounce then replaced it and it worked for just a few seconds. Help
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
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From: la la land jerzey
what is the condition of the in side of the pump its self / that pump is a gearator style pump they work very well up and untill they have been scored from debris -
2 sets of gears are in the pump the larger gears are the pressure ones, a plate and a seal ( SEAL KEEPS THE 2 PUMPS GEAR SETS SEPERATE ) if the seal has gone bad and or the body is scored up than the pump cant do its job / the seal if its bad it can let the pressure side of the pump loose its prime and just stop working -- jz
2 sets of gears are in the pump the larger gears are the pressure ones, a plate and a seal ( SEAL KEEPS THE 2 PUMPS GEAR SETS SEPERATE ) if the seal has gone bad and or the body is scored up than the pump cant do its job / the seal if its bad it can let the pressure side of the pump loose its prime and just stop working -- jz
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Newberg, Oregon
Well I am officially frustrated. I took apart the pump, found a piece of gasket in the top removed it cleaned inspected changed the seal in the top plate installed it, primed it and started the motor, worked for a few seconds, then back to pumping air. removed the exhaust and removed the sending unit. removed the spark plugs and ran 2-3 oz of oil out. Reassembled started it and it pumped for 1 min then light came on and it pumped air.
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,666
Likes: 3
From: Styxville
In Oregon at this time of year I would run 20/50.
My 77 had a dicky oil pump right from new. The light used to come on whenever the engine got hot in slow traffic. Seemed like the pump vapor locks or cavitates real easy. Later models had a slightly different oil pump, so I think 77 as the first year of the gerotor pump had some shortcomings.
Mine still will not run on 60 weight, even in tropical summer heat. It simply will not suck the heavy oil into the pump on cold (80 degrees ambient temp here) start up. Oil light stays on and no oil goes nowhere.
It runs fine on 50W in ambient temps of 80-110 degrees F but when I rode south last and temps were more like 60F, the 50 weight oil was definitely too thick for it.
So if you are not already, try some 20/50 oil in the tank and bleed the old thick stuff out of the pump and lines before start up.
My 77 had a dicky oil pump right from new. The light used to come on whenever the engine got hot in slow traffic. Seemed like the pump vapor locks or cavitates real easy. Later models had a slightly different oil pump, so I think 77 as the first year of the gerotor pump had some shortcomings.
Mine still will not run on 60 weight, even in tropical summer heat. It simply will not suck the heavy oil into the pump on cold (80 degrees ambient temp here) start up. Oil light stays on and no oil goes nowhere.
It runs fine on 50W in ambient temps of 80-110 degrees F but when I rode south last and temps were more like 60F, the 50 weight oil was definitely too thick for it.
So if you are not already, try some 20/50 oil in the tank and bleed the old thick stuff out of the pump and lines before start up.
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
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From: la la land jerzey
first ---- you never said if the pump gearing and or the pump body was scored
second --- i had a sporty that some one when removing the base gaskets, must have not paid any mind to what the debris was doing and lots of it ended up in the bottom of the engine block, at that point is was sucked into the oil return of the pump ----
we had to split the cases to fix it - I AM NOT saying its whats up with yours but gasket paper should not be in the pump
second --- i had a sporty that some one when removing the base gaskets, must have not paid any mind to what the debris was doing and lots of it ended up in the bottom of the engine block, at that point is was sucked into the oil return of the pump ----
we had to split the cases to fix it - I AM NOT saying its whats up with yours but gasket paper should not be in the pump
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Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 44
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From: Newberg, Oregon
oil flow problem fixed
Well I finally got to the bottom of my issue. I removed the cam cover o see if the pump was turning properly... it was. removed the pump, again and disassembled it, again, reassembled it. I got Micks pics of the proper way to run the hoses. I was close but I crossed the vent hose and the supply hose, and it was pinching the supply hose and, I think, cutting off the supply from the tank. Thank you Mick for the pic's your expertise is soooo valuable. Now if I can only find the sprocket cover...
The stock run of the oil lines under the starter motor is quite difficult to re-do without kinking one of the lines. I have seen where some guys run the feed to the pump from the bottom of the oil tank, straight down behind the chain, then along the frame and straight into the pump. I may very well do mine that way next time it is necessary to dismantle that area.
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