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Old May 14, 2017 | 05:55 AM
  #11  
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Any Brand oil will be just fine. For the primary there is nothing better than HD F+. The right lube for a simple job.
 
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Old May 14, 2017 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackness03
Any issues with running Mobil 1 full synthetic vtwin 20-50 in all 3 holes? Doing my 1000 mile change today and I'd rather not use the expensive but cheap Harley oil.

Thanks
You'll get plenty of opinions. Mine is only one. IIWY, I'd let the Dealer do the very first change. They either look for certain early signs of developing problems during change #1 or might claim they do if you deny them this and later have a warranty claim.

Afterwards; Mobil 1 gets great reviews so you can try it in 3 holes and see. It will most certainly be fine in your engine and if you experience problems like clutch slippage, you could switch to say Formula +, perhaps, later and if you don't like how your ride is shifting, or the big clunk, you can switch to a gear oil in the tranny. I personally use hole specific products and have my own rationale for that. Others reason its best to do the opposite. Your ride will tell you soon enough what it likes to eat.
 
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Old May 14, 2017 | 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by mjwebb
yeah, 'Jerkins' lotion is the go to for Home Alone nights
 
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Old May 15, 2017 | 06:36 AM
  #14  
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Would be interesting to find out definitively who makes HD synthetic.
It's going to be one of the big oil companies with a markup
for the HD branding.
 
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Old May 15, 2017 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackness03
Any issues with running Mobil 1 full synthetic vtwin 20-50 in all 3 holes? Doing my 1000 mile change today and I'd rather not use the expensive but cheap Harley oil.

Thanks
Mobil 1 15W-50 full synthetic will work fine in the motor. What I use. For hard extended interstate driving, a true motorcycle synthetic like their V-twin or Harley's SYN 3 since it has some additives like a diesel oil may extend engine life if you think you will put 100K on it.
Do not use engine oil in transmission and primary. After a few years run, Harley has discovered the better and first choice is a straight weight 50W non-detergent gear oil. There is no filter and therefore the detergent is not needed or wanted. It is thin enough to get to and flush those small needle bearings on the input shaft. Do not use a number greater than 50. It has been updated in their service manual in the last couple years. Two quarts of Formula + is a no brainer. Change them at least ever other motor oil change if you do your own work.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 15, 2017 at 06:53 AM.
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Old May 15, 2017 | 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by riknbeth
Would be interesting to find out definitively who makes HD synthetic.
It's going to be one of the big oil companies with a markup
for the HD branding.
When they do start making one, that would be worth checking out.
 
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Old May 15, 2017 | 08:15 AM
  #17  
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90w gear oil is basically the same viscosity as 50w engine oil. The big difference is gear oil is formulated for high pressures & extreme temps (gears meshing) where as engine oil is formulated to interact with with gas and exhaust, detergents, and keep its lubrication and viscosity capabilities.
If using a gear oil in the transmission, my recommendation, use 75w90, and a 20w50 that has zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) in it for the engine and primary, hence the recommendation by the moco to use diesel engine oil if Syn3 is not available.
Mobil 1 V-twin 20w-50 has ZDDP (Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates) (1750 ppm) and is specifically designed for wet clutches.

Below is the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). HD SYN-3 is actually 60-70% (line 1) synthetic and 30-40% (line 4 & 5) dinosaur by-products.

HD SYN-3, as filed with the Federal Government. Manufactured by - Citgo Petroleum.

Composition section:

Component
CAS #
Concentration

(1) 1-Decene Homopolymer, hydrogenated
68037-01-4
50% - 70%

(2) Proprietary Ingredients
Proprietary Mixture
1% - 10%

(3) Polyisobutylene
9003-27-4
1% - 10%

(4) Distillates, Petroleum, Hydrotreated Heavy Paraffinic
64742-54-7
0% - 20%

(5) Distillates, Petroleum, Solvent-Refined Heavy Paraffinic
64741-88-4
0% - 20%

(6) Zinc Alkyldithiophosphate
68649-42-3
0% - 2%

Below is an independent oil lab analysis of SYN-3

(All values are ppm)
Iron 1
Moly 87
Silver 1
Boron 305
Silicon 4
Calcium 636
Magnesium 690
Phosphorus 881
Zinc 944

SUS Visc @ 210 F 97.4
cSt Visc @ 100 C 19.74
Flashpoint in F 510

Hope this helps to make an informed decision.
 

Last edited by 101ABN_17FLHTK; May 15, 2017 at 08:28 AM.
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Old May 15, 2017 | 12:19 PM
  #18  
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Except it's twice as thick. It needs to flow thru this needle bearing with the input shaft thru it in the 2nd attachment. 90 W is designed for the third attachment. But it will work. Some even use ATF.
 

Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 07:47 AM.
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Old May 15, 2017 | 12:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Except it's twice as thick. It needs to flow thru this needle bearing with the input shaft thru it in the 2nd attachment. 90 W is designed for the third attachment. But it will work. Some even use ATF.
Unfortunately not true. 20w-50 engine oil and 75w-90 Gear oil are nearly exactly the same. The Kinematic viscosity is the resistance of a fluid to flow under the influence of gravity (ie; how thick). SAE Engine oils are tested using Kinematic viscosity (Ability to flow/surface tension) tables under heat ranges (40C and 100C). Gear oil is tested using Absolute viscosity (Basically the resistance to stir) , using Kinematic viscosity scale across both oils they are the same.

Below is a good chart.



So whats the difference?

Lets take a glass of honey and a glass of mayonnaise and put them side by side. which has higher viscosity?

Using the absolute viscosity test, honey has higher viscosity. Honey seems thicker when stirring it.

Using the Kinematic viscosity test, Mayo has higher viscosity. Tipping the jars over the honey will flow out but the mayo stays put.

heat them up and the honey is more viscous in both test procedures.
 

Last edited by 101ABN_17FLHTK; May 15, 2017 at 01:34 PM.
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Old May 15, 2017 | 01:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Some even use ATF.
Would you put ATF in your car manual transmission? Heck no

ATF is actually a hydraulic fluid with lubrication and very good heat dissipation properties. Would I put it in the primary case? Absolutely!! In the primary and clutch pack heat is the number one enemy. ATF dispenses heat very effectively and has good lubrication qualities, but allows the friction plates and steels to grab via additives like friction adapters. ATF does not have very good shear properties though, hence the reason the friction plates can grab, so do not put it in your tranny or crankcase.
 

Last edited by 101ABN_17FLHTK; May 15, 2017 at 01:36 PM.
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