Anybody have a weird whistle after big bore?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 1,488
From: SW Washington State
My 2017 made very little balancer gear whine, My 2018 makes more than my 17 did but has quieted down with miles added. Yours is a lot more. In all your videos you posted I could hear the gear whine and Intake noise, but your descriptions were throwing me off. What I dont like about your gear whine is it has a bit of chatter to it. Not much you can do about it unless it develops into something more, and it may also get quieter as the gears get to know each other and become better friends.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 532
Likes: 85
From: NC
My 2017 made very little balancer gear whine, My 2018 makes more than my 17 did but has quieted down with miles added. Yours is a lot more. In all your videos you posted I could hear the gear whine and Intake noise, but your descriptions were throwing me off. What I dont like about your gear whine is it has a bit of chatter to it. Not much you can do about it unless it develops into something more, and it may also get quieter as the gears get to know each other and become better friends.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 1,488
From: SW Washington State
Yea, sorry about the descriptions. It's hard to find the words. I rode this am and the intake and gear whine were pretty loud. Got to work and it was somewhat quieter, but still very present. Frustrating. It has had a little since day one, but seems really loud after big bore. I may just open the cam chest this weekend to see if there is anything not right. Someone had mentioned cam chain? Any thoughts on that? Another was oil pump...idk. Thanks.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 532
Likes: 85
From: NC
Oil pump alignment must be an issue cause the MoCo has revised installation procedures. Your big bore kit should not have affected the Balancer gears. If you open the cam chest you will get about 12oz of oil, catch it and see if there are any debris, you might also pull the Crank Position sensor and look at that oil as well. that may be telling if you have a problem or not.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 11,757
From: Omaha,NE
Did you replace the inner cam bearing? I ask because you said the noise was there prior to the install. It seems to be the only possible common component in the cam train before and after the install. Not sure why the disdain for the pushrods; I like the Bender units. They're beefy and easy to adjust. There are different lengths for exhaust and intake pushrods; was this taken into account? At this point I would do as mentioned above: pull the cam cover off and look for fine metal in the oil, like silver paint. Pull the cam plate off and check the cam gear alignment per the manual, and adjust if necessary with a different shim.
It sounds mechanical.
Last edited by strych9; Dec 3, 2018 at 09:11 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 532
Likes: 85
From: NC
I wouldn't worry about the new torque sequence for the cam plate. I used the manual's torque specs on my build and have no issues whatsoever. Neither do thousands of other bikes that have the original torque specs. Keep in mind HD was fishing for a sumping solution. The revised torque spec solved nothing. Using the new spec wouldn't hurt anything nonetheless.
Did you replace the inner cam bearing? I ask because you said the noise was there prior to the install. It seems to be the only possible common component in the cam train before and after the install. Not sure why the disdain for the pushrods; I like the Bender units. They're beefy and easy to adjust. There are different lengths for exhaust and intake pushrods; was this taken into account? At this point I would do as mentioned above: pull the cam cover off and look for fine metal in the oil, like silver paint. Pull the cam plate off and check the cam gear alignment per the manual, and adjust if necessary with a different shim.
It sounds mechanical.
Did you replace the inner cam bearing? I ask because you said the noise was there prior to the install. It seems to be the only possible common component in the cam train before and after the install. Not sure why the disdain for the pushrods; I like the Bender units. They're beefy and easy to adjust. There are different lengths for exhaust and intake pushrods; was this taken into account? At this point I would do as mentioned above: pull the cam cover off and look for fine metal in the oil, like silver paint. Pull the cam plate off and check the cam gear alignment per the manual, and adjust if necessary with a different shim.
It sounds mechanical.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 532
Likes: 85
From: NC
I wouldn't worry about the new torque sequence for the cam plate. I used the manual's torque specs on my build and have no issues whatsoever. Neither do thousands of other bikes that have the original torque specs. Keep in mind HD was fishing for a sumping solution. The revised torque spec solved nothing. Using the new spec wouldn't hurt anything nonetheless.
Did you replace the inner cam bearing? I ask because you said the noise was there prior to the install. It seems to be the only possible common component in the cam train before and after the install. Not sure why the disdain for the pushrods; I like the Bender units. They're beefy and easy to adjust. There are different lengths for exhaust and intake pushrods; was this taken into account? At this point I would do as mentioned above: pull the cam cover off and look for fine metal in the oil, like silver paint. Pull the cam plate off and check the cam gear alignment per the manual, and adjust if necessary with a different shim.
It sounds mechanical.
Did you replace the inner cam bearing? I ask because you said the noise was there prior to the install. It seems to be the only possible common component in the cam train before and after the install. Not sure why the disdain for the pushrods; I like the Bender units. They're beefy and easy to adjust. There are different lengths for exhaust and intake pushrods; was this taken into account? At this point I would do as mentioned above: pull the cam cover off and look for fine metal in the oil, like silver paint. Pull the cam plate off and check the cam gear alignment per the manual, and adjust if necessary with a different shim.
It sounds mechanical.
This is driving me insane tho...worried about the thing grenading. Def gonna pull apart this weekend. Thanks for the reply.
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 310
Likes: 58
From: UAE
Did you perform a compression test, or better a cylinder leak down test. Could be one of the valves is not seating a 100%
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 532
Likes: 85
From: NC
That I did not do...2100 miles on the new kit so far. Would that present a problem before now? Just curious.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,807
Likes: 1,488
From: SW Washington State
I wouldn't worry about the new torque sequence for the cam plate. I used the manual's torque specs on my build and have no issues whatsoever. Neither do thousands of other bikes that have the original torque specs. Keep in mind HD was fishing for a sumping solution. The revised torque spec solved nothing. Using the new spec wouldn't hurt anything nonetheless.
Did you replace the inner cam bearing? I ask because you said the noise was there prior to the install. It seems to be the only possible common component in the cam train before and after the install. Not sure why the disdain for the pushrods; I like the Bender units. They're beefy and easy to adjust. There are different lengths for exhaust and intake pushrods; was this taken into account? At this point I would do as mentioned above: pull the cam cover off and look for fine metal in the oil, like silver paint. Pull the cam plate off and check the cam gear alignment per the manual, and adjust if necessary with a different shim.
It sounds mechanical.
Did you replace the inner cam bearing? I ask because you said the noise was there prior to the install. It seems to be the only possible common component in the cam train before and after the install. Not sure why the disdain for the pushrods; I like the Bender units. They're beefy and easy to adjust. There are different lengths for exhaust and intake pushrods; was this taken into account? At this point I would do as mentioned above: pull the cam cover off and look for fine metal in the oil, like silver paint. Pull the cam plate off and check the cam gear alignment per the manual, and adjust if necessary with a different shim.
It sounds mechanical.