Hello, does anyone have any input about a P2300 engine code? P2300 - Ignition coil driver low/open (front). I had an issue that sounds similar to sumping but i have an P2300 code. The dealership has already changed the ecm and tried a new ignition coil. I have done some reading about sumping but i dont see any engine codes associated with it. The bike is a 2017 Street Glide CVO with a Stage IV Kit. I bought the bike used with 11k miles that now has 15k miles on it. Thanks in advance.

 

I don't have an answer for your question, but I always wonder about the strategy where if a sensor throws a code, the proposed remedy is to replace the sensor. Most often the sensor is telling you something.

I'd ask them what *diagnosis* was done before they just started guessing and replacing things.

 

Well it's not a Sensor. If they replaced the Coil and the ECM, (why they would replace the ECM??) it most likely is an open circuit or short. If you have the Electrical Diagnostic Manual available to you it walks you through the troubleshooting process but it requires HD tools as well.

 

P2300 Ignition coil driver low/open (front)

Check the grounds and all connections, you would think the dealer did that.

You could try and clear it and see if it comes back. See #8 below

The following procedure will instruct in retrieving and clearing ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes and TSM/TSSM codes through the Harley guage cluster as well as a list of codes.

1- Turn Ignition switchto OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer resetbutton in & hold.

3- Turnignition switchto Ignition and release the odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 – Push the odometer resetbutton once and you will seethe selection menu “PSSPt” with the first P flashing.

5 – Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer resetbutton one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM(Electronic Control Module)[EFI] /Ignition Control Module[Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 – To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer resetbutton in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer resetbutton again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 – Record the codes.

8 – If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer resetbutton. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until ‘clear’ comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

On models not equipped with a tachometer “No Rsp” will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.

“No Rsp” (no response) will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.

 

I know when I get these types of DTC’s at work it is usually the coil, but that has been ruled out.
ECM wasn’t a bad guess because that is where the Driver grounds more than likely

But since both those have been ruled out, most likely an open wire or really high resistance in wire like corrosion

 

I am having an issue with P2300 right now on my '18 RGU HD Stage 3, 12, 500 miles. The fix is coil or ECM replacement on wording used. Took it to my selling dealer and they swapped out the coil with not result. It has the SE street tune on it and it also has a Powervision bump on it with a little masking done to obscure it on casual hookup. Now that the ECM would be suspect after a pretty worthy tech did all the standard checks and troubleshooting, I'm going to probably end up losing my warranty. As the check engine light comes on, it can occur at any speed or RPM, is sounds like the bike has dropped a cylinder and starts chugging, only just momentarily, then starts working fine again. It may be it again before the I can stop and clear the code, but it might reset, might not. I rode over 1300 issue free miles, once exceeding 100MPH, but the only conclusion I can draw from it is that appears to be heat related. I just don't know how to prove it. The last time it occurred was in 90+ degree weather of the twisties of Big Bend, but once it cooled off heading back north, another 1000 miles, not a hiccup. Ran great. So not sure the avenue to take and the dealer is shaking their head too on how to swap an ECM without me losing my warranty. All the "Tuning" and stage 3 was done at the dealer I am working with and I've had a good relationship with them for several years.

 

Tell them to drop the ecm in a bucket of saltwater and soak it for a few days then wish the moco good luck reading it... or burn it.

 

Did they try replacing the Crank Sensor? Was CS checked for debris?

 

P2300 is a code thrown when Ignition coil Driver Low/Low Front comes up . It is thrown when something like a reverse gear is not property put in or out of gear. Shut engine down. P2303 is the front.
It can be triggered at the same time by a B22236 BAS input open also.
Swapping ECM and losing warranty plain old BS there.

 

No other codes have occurred. Only the 2300. Started it today for the first time in several days after washing it. Code came on nearly immediately. 2300. No other. HD has told the dealer for another bike having the same issue to jumper around a specific wire and see if code sets. If so, ECM replace. Hoping the wire reroute does the trick.