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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 05:53 PM
  #11  
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Can’t speak on HD’s calculations but I know my stock cvo 117 put out 111 ft lbs at the wheel so probably just a few less for the 114.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Renoir1
I think I got it...

Originally Posted by mjwebb
it's simple really, just multiply EPA AFR 14.7:1 by PI 3.1415926535

I get 7.56% - do you 2 agree?
 
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 702
I get 7.56% - do you 2 agree?
I think that is the APR rate right?..their ultra low special financing rate only available for qualified customers!!!!!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2021 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 702
I get 7.56% - do you 2 agree?
Originally Posted by mjwebb
I think that is the APR rate right?..their ultra low special financing rate only available for qualified customers!!!!!
Yup, I agree.

That APR is subject to change though - you have to add 1% per ft lb of torque difference from crank to wheel.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 702
Harley measures engine torque at the crank, right?

If a stock 114 measures 119 lbs-ft @ 3000 RPM at the crank, how is parasitic loss determined to get an approximation of rear wheel torque?
Right

Measure the HP @ 3000 rpm at the rear wheel then use the formula,

Crank tq(rear wheel) = hp(rear wheel) x 5252 / RPM.

Loss % = (1 - ( Tq (RW) / Tq (CR))) / 100
 
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 07:40 AM
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If I can go over Dean Hill in 5th gear with mama on the back, I have enough torque. It's somewhat unscientific.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 09:45 AM
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This is what I found. Harley claims 111 ft/lbs tq for the 107 in a touring model stock. When they are advertising their stage 1 kit they are showing right at 101 ft/lb. at the rear wheel, which is about a 9% loss, which what I've always heard is 10 - 15 % to be around the correct drop from crank to rear wheel. If you go on down, there are two dyno charts I trust more than Harley, Steve Cole at TTS and Fuelmoto, that show right at 98 ft/lb of rear wheel tq on a stock 107. So that's a 13 ft/lb drop, which figures out to an 11.7% drop from crankshaft to rear wheel. The TTS run was in 5th gear, so that usually will be slightly less than a 6th gear run. Fuelmoto doen't say on this chart, but on a different chart where they are comparing to a Rushmore 103 they do note that they are 5th gear runs. The bottom chart is a 114 stock that is making just over 107 in 5th gear. So the advertised 119 tq for a 114 would work out to just over 108 tq with a 9% drop. The chart on the bottom that I extracted from a 2019 SE catalog shows about that much stock torque. Don't know if I answered the question, but I hope this helps.








 
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 10:11 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
This is what I found. Harley claims 111 ft/lbs tq for the 107 in a touring model stock. When they are advertising their stage 1 kit they are showing right at 101 ft/lb. at the rear wheel, which is about a 9% loss, which what I've always heard is 10 - 15 % to be around the correct drop from crank to rear wheel. If you go on down, there are two dyno charts I trust more than Harley, Steve Cole at TTS and Fuelmoto, that show right at 98 ft/lb of rear wheel tq on a stock 107. So that's a 13 ft/lb drop, which figures out to an 11.7% drop from crankshaft to rear wheel. The TTS run was in 5th gear, so that usually will be slightly less than a 6th gear run. Fuelmoto doen't say on this chart, but on a different chart where they are comparing to a Rushmore 103 they do note that they are 5th gear runs. The bottom chart is a 114 stock that is making just over 107 in 5th gear. So the advertised 119 tq for a 114 would work out to just over 108 tq with a 9% drop. The chart on the bottom that I extracted from a 2019 SE catalog shows about that much stock torque. Don't know if I answered the question, but I hope this helps.
It does help, thank you.

I'll try and explain why I'm curious. I saw an HD chart in another thread that discusses different clutch springs for various lb ft of torque, and I'm assuming it's measured at the crank. I have 124 lb ft of torque at 3k RPM at the rear wheel, and the chart stated that the stock clutch springs are good up to about 139 pounds (at the crank). If I do the math backwards and eliminate parasitic loss, using 10% loss as a "general rule" I'm in the neighborhood of 136 lb ft at the crank. Right near the edge of the HD chart for clamping force on the clutch plates with stock springs.

I'm not having any issues with my clutch slipping, but this chart did make me curious.

 
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 11:30 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 702
It does help, thank you.

I'll try and explain why I'm curious. I saw an HD chart in another thread that discusses different clutch springs for various lb ft of torque, and I'm assuming it's measured at the crank. I have 124 lb ft of torque at 3k RPM at the rear wheel, and the chart stated that the stock clutch springs are good up to about 139 pounds (at the crank). If I do the math backwards and eliminate parasitic loss, using 10% loss as a "general rule" I'm in the neighborhood of 136 lb ft at the crank. Right near the edge of the HD chart for clamping force on the clutch plates with stock springs.

I'm not having any issues with my clutch slipping, but this chart did make me curious.
I'd bet that the chart shown is for crank torque taken from HP at the rear wheel. All off their dyno graphs that show HP/TQ are from rear wheel measurements.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2021 | 11:46 AM
  #20  
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When the M8's first came out, there were quite a few owners that were experiencing clutch slippage with the 9 plate clutch. The eventual fix was to go to the 10 plate clutch. I'm currently running the 10 plate with the 1275N springs on my 2017 RGS. When we did the cam testing I had the 9 plate with AIM's strongest springs, I think they are 1375N. They made the clutch somewhat hard to pull, the 1275's are much better. I always said if I had it all to do again I would install the Rekluse TorqDrive plates. Well, I bought a 2021 Sport Glide, so I have it all to do again and I am installing the TorqDrive plates. By the time you do heavier springs and install the AIM SDR, then their or someone else's clutch actuator, it's about a wash. I'd rather have more clutch with less pull at the lever.
 
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