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Sumping and transfer are two different events. My 18 has never sumped, nor my trans transfer into the primary. The fat clutch rod was a precautionary measure, and I recently replaced the oil pump with a 2020 pump, since I was in there going cam work.
when it happened to mine, oil lite came on, engine started to clatter and I was just about 3/4 qt low. Had oil with me, refilled. Arived at the hotel, bike cooled down and spit all the extra oil out. Not sure what to call it. Second time, did add as much oil, still came out and my tranny was overfilled.
There are hundreds of threads on HDF on the topic of Sumping and Transfer but to summarize....
Sumping: When engine oil gets trapped in the engine crankcase (which is a dry sump). The oil is not being returned to the remote oil bag correctly.
The engine will become extremely hot/overheated and the engine performance will become sluggish with little throttle response.
Fix this with the new 8 Lobe Oil Pump.
62400247 - Oil
62400248 - Water (Twin-cooled) https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...64800-9999.pdf
Transfer: When transmission oil is consistently being moved from the transmission to the primary through the transmission main shaft.
Fix this with Harley Kit: 26500027 https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....46960640898220
Venting the crankcase: Does nothing for sumping nor transfer - may aid engine performance in big bore applications.
If you install one without having the new Oil pump's rear seal, the results will likely be that the vent will shoot engine oil/mist everywhere causing a mess
A couple oz per 1k miles doesn’t sound like alot but caring around a quart of oil on a road trip means one day I won’t have any oil and might screw my engine.
o)
I've never, not carried a quart of oil.
just in case i have a leak. Plus sometimes they use it when running hard out west.
But again, 10 ounces over 5k miles. At 5k miles you are ready for an oil change. You already have more oil in your bike at 5k, then I do after an oil change. You may find running half quart low, you don't go through as much oil. I don't know about M8s. But you may spend all this money, and find out you accomplished nothing.
1-2 ounces per 1k miles. How will you ever be out of oil for your engine? Change oil at 5k, and still not even down half quart. You could longer if thats what you want.
Last edited by Rounders; Aug 29, 2023 at 07:05 AM.
The latest oil pump has been available for 4 years now, and you have had sumping issues, now is a good time to finally cure the issue, ya think?
You don`t need any fancy anodized cam plates or pumps etc.
Install the vent on the inner primary cover if it has not already been done.
You will need a Factory Service Manual.
An ounce or two per 1,000 miles?
That is 10 ounces over 5, 000 miles, not even enough to add any oil between oil changes, you don`t need expensive vented transmission covers etc, that stuff is designed to cure a problem that a simple overboard hose will cure.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Aug 29, 2023 at 08:12 AM.
. A couple oz per 1k miles doesnt sound like alot but caring around a quart of oil on a road trip means one day I wont have any oil and might screw my engine.
Your math is flawed, or you are not aware of how many ounces are in a quart. Why would you not have any oil if you are carrying a quart?
Anyhow...
2 ounces per 1000 miles is normal consumption, and if you hadn't even checked it, would not have even been harmful to the engine during a 5000 mile change interval. It would have been at the lower end of the full range on the stick.
2017 107 Street Glide Special
Engine has sumped 3 times in 50k. Three times where I got an oil lite, put more oil in, and then watched it puck out through the filter, and add a bunch oil to the primary.
Thanks in advance
LP gave a pretty good breakdown of sumping vs transfer.
I had an early stage 2 17 that suddenly lost power while running uphill into a headwind at 80 mph. It was like someone threw out an anchor. Had to downshift to third just to maintain enough speed to take the next offramp. Bike was holy hell hot and smelled all wrong. There was nothing on the stick when I checked the oil. Let it sit for about a half hour while I made a few calls trying to figure out what to do, then checked the oil again. Sure enough, it was back to halfway between add and full.
Tests at dealer confirmed the problem with excessive amounts of oil coming out of the case - been a while so I don't remember exactly how much. However,, I never had an issues with oil migrating to the primary, which is an unrelated issue, and never had an oil light. Still the damage was done . When the dealer tore my bike down there was pretty severe scoring on cylinder walls and my oil pump was badly scored. All this is just information to hopefully help you make some tough choices.
LIke others said, a new oil pump is in order along with a primary vent for transfer. Good luck.
If you are adding 1-2 OZ of oil stop doing that. There is no reason in the world to be adding oil in OZ's
You are likely over filling the oil. Check oil with Bike HOT. it should be at full make for side stand or slight below.
Safe start check cold oil should be at half way mark no higher.
If you are adding 1-2 OZ of oil stop doing that. There is no reason in the world to be adding oil in OZ's
You are likely over filling the oil. Check oil with Bike HOT. it should be at full make for side stand or slight below.
Safe start check cold oil should be at half way mark no higher.
Check hot means hot .
either way, important to let it idle for a minute or two at full operating temp to scavenge as much as possible back to the oil reservoir so your readings are as accurate as possible (and of course on perfectly level ground) .. I think some folks add oil thinking the level is lower than they realize it actually would or should be if they followed these simple important instructions
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