M8 Intake manifold help needed.
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Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 51
Likes: 37
From: Florida
I switched to the s$s one. No re tune required.
Do get the service manual for installing it. The sequence is non intuitive.
Also, you will absolutely need a long 1/4" Allen ball driver.
Do get the service manual for installing it. The sequence is non intuitive.
Also, you will absolutely need a long 1/4" Allen ball driver.
Last edited by Peter Kelly; May 29, 2024 at 07:37 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 124
Likes: 168
From: Florida & Michigan
Don't know how I missed this thread. Yes replace the warped POS plastic intake with the aluminum one of the same size. The only time you may want to go with a bigger intake diameter is on a engine build. NO you do not need to retune the bike. The composite intake is crap and not only do they warp, the bolts loosen up also. Fix it yourself and be done with it. New Port Richie Harley had my bike for 6 mf'n hours while I waited (only because it was under warrantee), told me there was no codes and kicked it down the road. When I went to fix it myself the next day 3 of the 4 bolts were backed out almost 1/2 an inch.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2023
Posts: 320
Likes: 178
From: Socal
i replaced my air cleaner and pretty much lived with an intake leak for 7000 miles. i simply didnt spot the symptoms, but they were there. most noticeable was trying to cruise at an rpm anywhere near 2000 and the bike would feel like its lurching, almost like its struggling to breathe. but open the throttle up and it was much less noticeable.
after i did the cam job myself, i took it to a dyno tuner, a reputable guy in lake elsinore. he read me the results and said they were 'pretty good, but felt like there was more potential. I suspect an intake leak.' I should have taken his words to heart because he was dead on. Somehow the cam replacement was flawless, but I did a sloppy job installing the trask air cleaner.
I took it apart, greased every mating surface and O-ring with No-Toil filter grease, and retorqued everything to spec, and that was pretty much it. Bike runs flawlessly now and is a little scary at higher RPMs.
Now I'm also looking at potentially replacing the manifold, throttle body, or both, but so far it seems like mine were not the ones made with crap warping composites. Total user error.
after i did the cam job myself, i took it to a dyno tuner, a reputable guy in lake elsinore. he read me the results and said they were 'pretty good, but felt like there was more potential. I suspect an intake leak.' I should have taken his words to heart because he was dead on. Somehow the cam replacement was flawless, but I did a sloppy job installing the trask air cleaner.
I took it apart, greased every mating surface and O-ring with No-Toil filter grease, and retorqued everything to spec, and that was pretty much it. Bike runs flawlessly now and is a little scary at higher RPMs.
Now I'm also looking at potentially replacing the manifold, throttle body, or both, but so far it seems like mine were not the ones made with crap warping composites. Total user error.
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4th Gear
Joined: May 2024
Posts: 8
Likes: 1
From: AR
UPDATE:
First thanks for all the responses.
Ended up when I actually took everything apart the front cylinder flange seal had about melted to the air intake manifold. Probably overheated idling in my garage but wasn't going to take a chance on the intake.
I tried to order the SE intake but always on backorder so I bit the dust and got a original replacement from where I bought the bike and the flange seals. Well not actually the original parts they pulled up the original part number no longer available and the number changed 2 times to a 2024 number this tells me they have updated it 2 times from the first year of the M8.
I been a Fork Lift Tech for over 25 years it took me about 2 hours total for the repairs ( I'm sure I over torqued the flange bots since I couldn't find my inch pound wrench I'm probably more in the 20lb instead of the 90") I see that as no big deal since you have a flat surface flange mated to a flat surface head. I could of probably done it in like 1.5 hours if I didn't look at YouJunk videos they say to use a long ball end socket for the bolts 1/4 on my bike that is 100% wrong. The right side went straight in no ball end needed, the left side even the ball end could not get enough grip to brake the bolts loose ( had to use just a regular A wrench)
Fired it up and idle about 1200 then dropped to about 8/900 that is normal, rode it about 20 miles today a bit rough on idle but started getting much better after a few miles ( stopped to check for gas leaks a few times I really dislike just O ring seals on the injectors) I think the ECM needed to relearn a bit plus old gas going to run all that out tomorrow.
It's not like the old days air intake leak= runs like crap now it's the bike sees to much O2 so we will dump more fuel thus increasing the RPM.
Total cost after shipping about 150 bucks.
Again thanks for all the responses.
EDIT See U in Sturges this year if your their.
First thanks for all the responses.
Ended up when I actually took everything apart the front cylinder flange seal had about melted to the air intake manifold. Probably overheated idling in my garage but wasn't going to take a chance on the intake.
I tried to order the SE intake but always on backorder so I bit the dust and got a original replacement from where I bought the bike and the flange seals. Well not actually the original parts they pulled up the original part number no longer available and the number changed 2 times to a 2024 number this tells me they have updated it 2 times from the first year of the M8.
I been a Fork Lift Tech for over 25 years it took me about 2 hours total for the repairs ( I'm sure I over torqued the flange bots since I couldn't find my inch pound wrench I'm probably more in the 20lb instead of the 90") I see that as no big deal since you have a flat surface flange mated to a flat surface head. I could of probably done it in like 1.5 hours if I didn't look at YouJunk videos they say to use a long ball end socket for the bolts 1/4 on my bike that is 100% wrong. The right side went straight in no ball end needed, the left side even the ball end could not get enough grip to brake the bolts loose ( had to use just a regular A wrench)
Fired it up and idle about 1200 then dropped to about 8/900 that is normal, rode it about 20 miles today a bit rough on idle but started getting much better after a few miles ( stopped to check for gas leaks a few times I really dislike just O ring seals on the injectors) I think the ECM needed to relearn a bit plus old gas going to run all that out tomorrow.
It's not like the old days air intake leak= runs like crap now it's the bike sees to much O2 so we will dump more fuel thus increasing the RPM.
Total cost after shipping about 150 bucks.
Again thanks for all the responses.
EDIT See U in Sturges this year if your their.
Last edited by Zerk2012; Jul 5, 2024 at 08:01 PM.
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