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Ok, just put this in but haven't had a chance to test ride the bike yet. Hope it helps eliminate the clung when shifting up or down. Question: In light of how thick this stuff is how does everyone change it? The drain hole is small and the bike leans the wrong way for draining. Do I have to by one of those thingies that lets the bike lean to the right and drain this stuff overnight? Or...if this stuff works I'm not going to screw with it for a couple of years. At $10 a quart you should be able to leave it in there for a while. Whadda ya think guys?
You check trans oil AND drain with the bike upright (lift).
The clunking is more a function of the clutch adjustment (use the half turn out at the basket to decrease drag, as long as it doesn't slip) and adjust the cable at the lever to the tight side. It tends to add to its slack as the bike heats up.
The shockproof will help a bit but its big advantage is quieting down gear whine, if present.
Thanks EZ,
You hit the nail on the head. The clunking is more pronounced when the bike is well heated up. So I turn the nut counter clockwise correct? I keep little on no slack in the clutch cable adjustment.Can't help it, been racing dirt bikes all my life...
If you remove the derby cover,loosen the clutch cable adjustment to allow lots of slack, loosen the lock nut at the clutch basket and tighten the inner (allen key) adjuster untill it just seats lightly against the basket. Back it out 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut being careful not to change the adjuster position. Lots make a tool for this that lets them hold the adjuster through a socket and make (grind) flats on the socket to fit a wrench.
Anyway, the std. is 1/2 to a full turn out from "lightly seated". IMO, the less you can turn the adjuster out (counter clockwise) without the clutch slipping, the better the adjustment to make shifting smooth.
After , when you re tighten the lever cable, give just enough slack so it doesn'tstart engaging the clutch and tighten under the boot. It will gain slack as the bike heats up. Done right so it doesn't slip it makes for very smooth shifting.Most peopledefinitely adjust toward the dragging side, IMHO,by splitting the difference between a half turn and a full turn OR don't seat the adjuster firmly enough when they make the initial turn in.
There is another method for acheiving this under the do it yourself section , using lever contact with the bars to judge the adjustment. Probably a good method but the above works fine for me.
Ok, just put this in but haven't had a chance to test ride the bike yet. Hope it helps eliminate the clung when shifting up or down. Question: In light of how thick this stuff is how does everyone change it? The drain hole is small and the bike leans the wrong way for draining. Do I have to by one of those thingies that lets the bike lean to the right and drain this stuff overnight? Or...if this stuff works I'm not going to screw with it for a couple of years. At $10 a quart you should be able to leave it in there for a while. Whadda ya think guys?
You have to drain it hot......I put a 1x6" board under my jiffy....then sit on the bike and lean it left & right until all the oil is out. If you drain it cold........get a nice thick book to read while you are waiting.....
Definitely drain it hot and a small piece of 2 x 4 works just fine! under the side stand.
I just drained out amsoil 140 severe gear and also put in Redline Heavy Shockproof 250.
We'll see tomorrow how quiet the 5th gear chatter is now,on my 07 6th speed Street Glide.
Myonly concern is in a warranty issue with the HD dealership; What the heck are they going to do when they see this very red in colorGear lube?I wished I'd knownbefore I bought the stuff.I might havefirst tried50% Lucus and 50%Amsoil 140.
If and when the trans does go out I wonder how we'll getall the Red Color out so we won't raise warranty questions or denial !
If this redline does work then 1 problem solved and then on toaworseproblem. Compensator sprocket Clatter!!
Plenty of Harley dealers SOLD Redline HD SP for many years. Unless they can attribute a failure to the lubricant (really difficult to do, especially without a forensic lab, LOL) they can't void your warranty for using it.
It(or any lube) must meet manufacturers specifications for lubrication.(e.g. SF, etc.) It satisfies requirements for APL 5 and 6. Think you are covered here, very well. The red color helps find leaks and identify the source.
EZ
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I use Redline fluids in all three holes. For the tranny....get it good and hot, 2X4 under the jiffy stand, grab a beer and let it drain. That Redline HD SP is some thick stuff!
Yep ^^^ Same here! Use it in all 3 holes, the best stuff used to date for me, and like others have said, if you have time, drain it cold, grab a 6 pack, and watch some ****, otherwise, drop it warm and be done in a few minutes!.... LOL
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