Mobil 1, 0w40 fs oil
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,092
Likes: 12,638
From: South Carolina
The simple explanation, without getting all wrapped up in technical mumbo jumbo, is what I posted.
20w50 when tested at the low temp will have the same viscosity as SAE 20 at the same low temp (5.6 on the scale).
(The spec is SAE J300).
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jan 16, 2018 at 05:12 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 798
Likes: 168
From: Tryon, NC Cape Vincent NY
There is no such oil sold that is designated 20w.
The simple explanation, without getting all wrapped up in technical mumbo jumbo, is what I posted.
20w50 when tested at the low temp will have the same viscosity as SAE 20 at the same low temp (5.6 on the scale).
(The spec is SAE J300).
The simple explanation, without getting all wrapped up in technical mumbo jumbo, is what I posted.
20w50 when tested at the low temp will have the same viscosity as SAE 20 at the same low temp (5.6 on the scale).
(The spec is SAE J300).
A 20w oil and a SAE 20 oil are two different oils.
Call the chart wrong if you want.
It also includes the new SAE 16 for cars that are going to ask for thinner oils.
Ken
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,092
Likes: 12,638
From: South Carolina
I clearly said there is no such oil sold that is designated 20w.
20w is a part of a multi grade oil designation, not a stand alone oil.
The oils you are showing are SAE 20.
Please show us a container of oil labeled 20w.
This is a far as I care to go with you on the subject, I`m sure this has bored every poster and viewer to tears. Whatever you say is fine with me.
Feel free to sit at the front of the class next to HDSlimJim...
20w is a part of a multi grade oil designation, not a stand alone oil.
The oils you are showing are SAE 20.
Please show us a container of oil labeled 20w.
This is a far as I care to go with you on the subject, I`m sure this has bored every poster and viewer to tears. Whatever you say is fine with me.
Feel free to sit at the front of the class next to HDSlimJim...
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 7,591
From: Poolville
Thanks Dan, and seriously to you y22c whatever the f*** you are get the f*** off of my f****** thread you dick so I made one mistake and you jumped on it your douchebag stop f****** arguing with every goddamn f****** comment get the f*** off my post
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,062
Likes: 7,591
From: Poolville
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 798
Likes: 168
From: Tryon, NC Cape Vincent NY
98,I am sorry I have pissed you off by trying to correct misinformation.
I guess you would rather not know.
Dan, you are correct, you did say 20w, my mistake.
Ken
I guess you would rather not know.
Dan, you are correct, you did say 20w, my mistake.
Ken
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Stage I
Joined: Sep 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Ashville, Alabama
Ultra_Rider85
The best oil weight to use is the one recommended by the people that built the engine.
Generally, the higher the ambient air temp, the heavier the Wxx number will be (5W20 = cold weather and 20W50 = hot)...go with what the engineers recommend; the owners manual will spell it out.
The bigger the gap between the first number (0W) and the last number (W40) the more non lubricating additives you have in the oil...."Viscosity improvers" are chemicals that turn a 40 weight oil into a 0 weight oil at 100 degrees and then back to 40 weight at 200 degrees...quite a feet...the most ideal, but not real world, oil weight is a straight weight oil...but for that, you'd need an environment with very little ambient air tempt change.
It's best to keep the gap between the W numbers as small as possible..the number to the right should be what the engineers recommend based upon the expected air temp...the number to the left of the W should be whatever is recommend based upon the coldest ambient air temp expected.
0W is good to 30 below zero!! Who rides in that weather?
I use Mobile1 15W50...$4/qt with a rebate...works great, cheap enough to change often...no brainer...that is for the engine only though...do NOT put it in the clutch...use Mobile1 Racing 4T 10W40 for the clutch....great rule of thumb with clutch oil; make sure it carries a JASO MA/MA2 rating...if not,..it's not going in my clutch.
Generally, the higher the ambient air temp, the heavier the Wxx number will be (5W20 = cold weather and 20W50 = hot)...go with what the engineers recommend; the owners manual will spell it out.
The bigger the gap between the first number (0W) and the last number (W40) the more non lubricating additives you have in the oil...."Viscosity improvers" are chemicals that turn a 40 weight oil into a 0 weight oil at 100 degrees and then back to 40 weight at 200 degrees...quite a feet...the most ideal, but not real world, oil weight is a straight weight oil...but for that, you'd need an environment with very little ambient air tempt change.
It's best to keep the gap between the W numbers as small as possible..the number to the right should be what the engineers recommend based upon the expected air temp...the number to the left of the W should be whatever is recommend based upon the coldest ambient air temp expected.
0W is good to 30 below zero!! Who rides in that weather?
I use Mobile1 15W50...$4/qt with a rebate...works great, cheap enough to change often...no brainer...that is for the engine only though...do NOT put it in the clutch...use Mobile1 Racing 4T 10W40 for the clutch....great rule of thumb with clutch oil; make sure it carries a JASO MA/MA2 rating...if not,..it's not going in my clutch.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,091
Likes: 304
From: mid Michigan
OP u need to read all of 540 rats blog. If you did you would know that he doesn't recommend thinner oils in air cooled engine. Because they can't control the temperature like coolant based engine
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