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The “you have to have synthetic oil” marketing machine is the reason that most people think they have to have synthetic oil. But in reality, in an internal combustion engine, whether it is made from a good quality conventionally refined base oil or synthetic base oil is going to have very little effect the oil's performance.
Not a bad statement, however in a "air cooled" internal combustion engine that get a lot hotter than an engine with a radiator, the dyno oils have a lot better chance of sheering at the higher temps than a group IV or V synthetic do, hence my choice to run Group V synthetic.
Is Syn3 a "Bad" oil? I doubt you could stretch the data enough to say that. It's not a bad product at all.
But I and many others believe there are better choices available for less money.
Like pococj said, it's made by Citgo. I won't use any of their products for exactly the reason he stated.
Stubby, just because it's under warrenty doesn't mean you have to use their oil, or have them change it. Mine's under warrenty, too. I did the 1,000 service in my garage. I used Mobile 1 car oil. I'm not in the least worried about the warrenty. Besides, when's the last time you heard of engine damage or failure from using the "wrong" kind of oil? I can't ever remember hearing that from anyone.
The “you have to have synthetic oil” marketing machine is the reason that most people think they have to have synthetic oil. But in reality, in an internal combustion engine, whether it is made from a good quality conventionally refined base oil or synthetic base oil is going to have very little effect the oil's performance.
Not a bad statement, however in a "air cooled" internal combustion engine that get a lot hotter than an engine with a radiator, the dyno oils have a lot better chance of sheering at the higher temps than a group IV or V synthetic do, hence my choice to run Group V synthetic.
Sheering is caused by mechanical stress on the oil. It is not caused by heat. How are you making the connection between heat and sheering?
The “you have to have synthetic oil” marketing machine is the reason that most people think they have to have synthetic oil. But in reality, in an internal combustion engine, whether it is made from a good quality conventionally refined base oil or synthetic base oil is going to have very little effect the oil's performance.
Not a bad statement, however in a "air cooled" internal combustion engine that get a lot hotter than an engine with a radiator, the dyno oils have a lot better chance of sheering at the higher temps than a group IV or V synthetic do, hence my choice to run Group V synthetic.
Sheering is caused by mechanical stress on the oil. It is not caused by heat. How are you making the connection between heat and sheering?
Doug
Doug, you are correct but for the newer TC88 and 95 motors they cool the pistons with oil jets and do beat up the oil faster than some of the other HD engine models. Plus in some instances you can exceed the temperature ranges of dino oil and the synthetics give you a higher temperature operating range and hence a little bit of insurance in that department. For the difference in cost I feel it's cheap insurance. I have run both and believe the sun oils run cooler and smoother. My $.02.
The syn3 bashing gets old. I run it. I have many friends who run it. We see 115 degrees and more here in Phoenix in the summer. No problems, as a matter of fact, I think the engine sounds pretty good when it's running god knows what kind of oil temperatures in the middle of summer.
I run syn3 for one simple reason. I have pre-paid maintenance. The dealer changes the oil for free every 2,500 miles. They want to use syn3. Why argue with the dealer who is gonna fix anything that fails in the engine for the next 3 years for free ?
If you're gonna bash syn3, post some facts rather than opinions.
Not gonna jump on the wagon, but I saw it with my own eyes. Couple of riding buds, both bikes about 25,000-30,000 miles. Bike with syn 3 needs a rebuild, cylinders worn slap out. Bike with Amsoil ( I do not think that Amsoil was the saving grace of the other bike, just the fact that it was not syn 3 ) Was broke open for a big bore kit. The syn 3 engine looked horrible. The oil looked like it had been cooked. The non-syn 3 engine still looked almost as good as new. Still had hone marks visible in the cylinders. I know, these bikes might have been used differently, or maintained differently......NOPE! They almost always rode together, and they were maintained by the same indy shop. Like I said, I will not jump on the wagon unless I have SEEN proof.
Syn 3 is not a true synthetic. It's just a group 3 base stock with an average additive package. It's a hydrocracked and de-waxed dino oil. True synthetics like Amsoil and Mobil 1 are made from a gas, making for more uniform molecules. Group 4 base stocks like Mobil 1 and Amsoil do conduct heat better because of the molecular uniformity. Some Synthetics, like Redline, use a group 5 basestock made from esters.
In short, a true synthetic will last longer and should conduct heat better, therefore run cooler.
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