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Rear sprocket replace

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Old Oct 4, 2023 | 11:12 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by MarkSG
In aircraft work I sometimes use 3/32, 1/8 and sometimes 5/32", however they are aluminum.
The pneumatic squeezer and 3X pneumatic rivet gun I have would never work on steel this size.
Looks like that expensive tool is only a jig with a hand set die punch.
I would figure a way to hold the drum and find a good die punch as that would save a ton.
Heating the whole rivet almost red before dropping it in the hole will make it much softer.
Assuming that is a 1/4" rivet, this one with a hammer and a hot rivet should work. It is made for a pneumatic gun but for the price you could beat it up with a hammer and throw it away.
https://www.zoro.com/ajax-tool-works...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
Rivets are 3/16. I have an air hammer and the die punch to fit..

Add; I need to make a buck..
 

Last edited by Max Headflow; Oct 4, 2023 at 11:17 AM. Reason: add:
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Old Oct 4, 2023 | 11:16 AM
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From: poway
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Originally Posted by hellonewman
Were the welds big that required a lot of grinding or did Stevie Wonder grind them down?
I'll ask Stevie.......


I used a 1/16 cutoff wheel in a 4 1/2 inch grinder. They look deep but really aren't. Had go deep enough to get through the weld. Went mostling into the sprocket since it is getting replaced..
 
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 10:15 AM
  #13  
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The rivet holes were tight so I didn't bother to weld.. Did turn the drum to about 0.020 over..







 
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 03:01 PM
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Nice job on the drum. At .20" over do the shoes make contact all the way around?
When I was a kid we had a machine that would arc the shoes to fit the drum.
Back when we riveted new lining on the old shoes.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkSG
Nice job on the drum. At .20" over do the shoes make contact all the way around?
When I was a kid we had a machine that would arc the shoes to fit the drum.
Back when we riveted new lining on the old shoes.
Well at 0.2" over there wouldn't be much drum left.. At 0.020 the shoes seem to fit reasonably well.

I still have the rivet tool.. Made by Industro in the USA. By today's standards, it makes the cheap chinese stuff look like snap-on..
 

Last edited by Max Headflow; Oct 10, 2023 at 05:52 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 06:20 PM
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There is a question for you guys.. This bike has what I believe are later rear crashbars. The problem is that the way they are mounted, the wheel won't slide in because the tire hits the crashbar unless I deflate the tire.. Does the crashbar go on the outside of the frame mount? It looks like it can got between the muffler mount and the frame with a proper spacer? The way shown was how I received the bike.


 
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 06:45 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Do you heat the rivet end and drop it in or drop it in and heat the end?
I spot heat the ends and peen them. If in doubt you can add a few spot welds with 7018 or 308. Crash bar outside of the frame, replaces that spacer I see if they are straight.
 

Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Oct 10, 2023 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 08:10 PM
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This is my 62 I restored. Best pic I have readily available which shows the bar inside the forging like yours.


 
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 08:11 PM
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Im assuming your bars thread onto the upper shock studs, mine dont because its earlier than yours.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2023 | 08:26 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by hellonewman
Im assuming your bars thread onto the upper shock studs, mine dont because its earlier than yours.
The bars are different.
 
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