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Doing the rear wheels and brakes on the 65FLH.. The rear sprocket needs changing even tho the chain is new. Don't want a chrome brake drum / sprocket so I'm replacing the sprocket on the current drum. Drum measures 8.005" so it's salvageable. One problem is that the sprocket is welded to the drum in 4 places.. I was able to get the old sprocket off.. After riveting should I weld the sprocket in place? If so what welding rod? The old stuff was likely stick welded and supper hard. 7018, 8018? I can mig it or tig it.. I'm thinking ER308L or ER312L and tig..
I dont think the factory did anything more than rivet them on. I dont enjoy replacing sprockets, haven't encountered a welded one so far thankfully.
That may be the way to go. Have an old Snap-On air hammer and a rivet die for it.. I can set the rivet pretty well.. It interesting that I find tools in my tool box that I'd hadn't used for almost 40 - 50 years and they are getting used.
That is what happens when you work on 50 60 year old machines
we heat the rivet red then set it - yea but it works for me and shorten them as well
and if the drum is worn well but till usable we weld it on its no good 10 years from now anyway - have also cut an old sprocket off a good drum and did it again
Can't say which one that is or if all the bits are there. But you clamp that into your vice, good luck.
Interesting. I doubt it will fit. It has an indexing pin that likely fits a 48 tooth sprocket so that the rivets line up with buck part.. From the look of it I'd suspect it's for a mechanical drum.
At that price I almost buy a new drum/ sprocket.. Drums that fit my bike are only from 63-66. Tedd's does have black drums..
That is what happens when you work on 50 60 year old machines
we heat the rivet red then set it - yea but it works for me and shorten them as well
and if the drum is worn well but till usable we weld it on its no good 10 years from now anyway - have also cut an old sprocket off a good drum and did it again
Do you heat the rivet end and drop it in or drop it in and heat the end?
In aircraft work I sometimes use 3/32, 1/8 and sometimes 5/32", however they are aluminum.
The pneumatic squeezer and 3X pneumatic rivet gun I have would never work on steel this size.
Looks like that expensive tool is only a jig with a hand set die punch.
I would figure a way to hold the drum and find a good die punch as that would save a ton.
Heating the whole rivet almost red before dropping it in the hole will make it much softer.
Assuming that is a 1/4" rivet, this one with a hammer and a hot rivet should work. It is made for a pneumatic gun but for the price you could beat it up with a hammer and throw it away. https://www.zoro.com/ajax-tool-works...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Rear sprocket replace
