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Thanks, I ordered one. I want to re-work the headlight dimmer switch on my FXS without using a big toggle.
You bet. With the popularity of air-cooled VWs, these relays will be around for a long time, too.
Here are a few shots of threading the wires through the bar and hollow riser bolts for the aluminum momentary buttons I chose. They're quite small but work fine--especially with unlined leather gloves. A bit trickier with winter gloves (though I don't often ride under 50 F)... I temporarily used (clear) shrink wrap to pull the leads through the bar.
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Feb 28, 2024 at 09:41 AM.
Yes, I used similar buttons for my horn and starter, with regular Bosch relays to handle the loads.
While looking for lighted pushbuttons for the high beam, I found there are latching buttons, so a normal relay would work too. But I like the idea of using a momentary button and a latching relay.
Yes, I used similar buttons for my horn and starter, with regular Bosch relays to handle the loads.
While looking for lighted pushbuttons for the high beam, I found there are latching buttons, so a normal relay would work too. But I like the idea of using a momentary button and a latching relay.
Yeah, it's pretty neat. I like your location for the relay(s) much better, and will probably move mine there whenever I get around to repainting the tank and fenders. They're a little buggered up and faded after all these years.
So, I ran down the road to the post office, and... sure enough, the professional rebuilder was right: even though made in '67, it's a 1:1 unit, as the needle was reading roughly twice as fast as it should've, judging from seat-of-the-pants impression putting down a route I've ridden a bazillion times. However, the needle floats smoothly, and the odometer barrels advance as they should. Pretty cool--and I really like the way this vintage unit completes the bike's aesthetic.
That said, I looked again at the Colorado (auto) speedo expert's website, and I didn't realize he can provide a ratio reducer that will easily accommodate this error (I had thought it was only up to [x] percentage).
Based on the distance, it's looking like I need a reduction of just under 50% (weirdly, as I have a 25-tooth tranny sprocket), but I don't trust the navigation system's guesstimate in the car of 2.3 miles--and the electronic odometer doesn't read tenths of a mile (for crying out loud). So, I've asked my machinist (whose shop is next door) to run down to the post office on the way home to compare to this round-trip readout (1st pic).
Then, I'll have to figure out where to put the cigarette lighter-sized ratio adapter box. I would like to hide it between the tanks, but with the ferrules and threaded collars, I'm afraid it'd create to long of a straight and inflexible section in the cable. So, may have to put it just below the tank as indicated...
Okay, so my machinist's digital speedo says 2.1 miles from the end of my easement to the post office, so since it's a long easement let's call it 2.15 miles each way from the garage apron.
The Harley speedo reads 8.3 miles round trip in the previous post, sitting in the garage after the roundtrip, divided by two is 4.15 miles each way--indicated, by a 1:1 speedo hooked up to a 2:1 drive.
However, I believe the 25-tooth sprocket (and Michelin Commander II 16" rear tire) reduced the V-Twin unit's readout by just over 12% when it was working right--judging from the radar speed warning setup that used to be out on the highway and later pacing a friend in a car. So, I've gotta do some math to figure out what percentage of a decrease I've got to request for the adapter box...
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Feb 28, 2024 at 07:23 PM.
FWIW, the longer your test run is the less the error. I would use a GPS on an approximately 10-mile out and back, then compare to what your bike says.
That's a good idea. I think I can get a GPS app for my phone that will be accurate enough.
I was looking at what I wrote above, and it occurs to me that I may not need to worry about the tranny sprocket, since I'll never change that back to OEM spec--and it's already factored into the above figures. I think that all I need to do is compare the GPS (actual) mileage to the speedo (indicated) mileage, and figure out the percentage of reduction for the ratio adapter.
Then, I can take that same percentage and subtract it from the speedo's MPH readout, and see how close that will bring me to the GPS's MPH readout. Does that make sense, or do I need more coffee...?
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