Electrical
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Electrical
Hey fellas, riding home last night, I was about 10-15 miles into a 30mile ride when I realized my lights were dimming. By the time I got home I had basically no headlights, and no tail lights. Even the speedometer console was too dim to read. Bike has a new battery; what should I check next? Is generally the first area to check the regulator, or the generator?
JC-
JC-
Last edited by 65_glide; May 19, 2011 at 08:15 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Thanks....I tested the bike while running, and it's putting out between 11.5-11.8 volts regardless of the rpm's. I had the battery disconnected several times, so I re-polarized the bike and it didn't make a difference. So, is there a way to isolate the generator and test it? Same goes for testing the regulator.
JC-
JC-
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,481
Likes: 3,677
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
Testing Generator Output...
Remove wire from F terminal of generator and connect a short jumper wire from generator F terminal to ground on m/c.
Remove wire(s) from generator A terminal and connect a positive lead of0-30 amp ammeter.
Start engine and run at speed of 2000 rpm. Then momentarily connect negative lead of ammeter to m/c battery positive terminal.
If ammeter reads 15 amps or more for 6 volt/10 amps or more for 12 generator, generator is not at fault and problem is either wiring or regulator.
Testing regulator is a very long section in the manual. If you do not have one, it would be a worthwhile expense at this point in time.
Remove wire from F terminal of generator and connect a short jumper wire from generator F terminal to ground on m/c.
Remove wire(s) from generator A terminal and connect a positive lead of0-30 amp ammeter.
Start engine and run at speed of 2000 rpm. Then momentarily connect negative lead of ammeter to m/c battery positive terminal.
If ammeter reads 15 amps or more for 6 volt/10 amps or more for 12 generator, generator is not at fault and problem is either wiring or regulator.
Testing regulator is a very long section in the manual. If you do not have one, it would be a worthwhile expense at this point in time.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
Are we talking about a '65 Glide?
I'd say your stator is breaking down and not generating enough voltage to charge / recharge the battery.
BUT... Check all your connections, especially on the battery, then the battery to to either the circuit breaker (+), or the frame ground. Be certain they are rust / oxidation free, and tighten down very securely.
It seems more have issues with these connections than anything else.
There is a voltage test you do on the stator to check the A/C voltage it's generating, I believe it's 40 or 50 volts. This would be before the voltage regulator.
At a fast idle you should have have 13.5 volts D/C or higher.
Often the stator will create a burnt transformer smell in the primary. If you can smell it, even a few drops of the fluid will stink, then it's clear cut your stator needs replacing.
There are upgraded kits to convert a low output older bike to a higher output which is more like stock on 80's models. Mine was originally 22 amp. I went with a kit that gave me the new stator, rotor and regulator at 32 amps. About $250 complete (primary gasket needed).
Let's hope it's just connections!
I'd say your stator is breaking down and not generating enough voltage to charge / recharge the battery.
BUT... Check all your connections, especially on the battery, then the battery to to either the circuit breaker (+), or the frame ground. Be certain they are rust / oxidation free, and tighten down very securely.
It seems more have issues with these connections than anything else.
There is a voltage test you do on the stator to check the A/C voltage it's generating, I believe it's 40 or 50 volts. This would be before the voltage regulator.
At a fast idle you should have have 13.5 volts D/C or higher.
Often the stator will create a burnt transformer smell in the primary. If you can smell it, even a few drops of the fluid will stink, then it's clear cut your stator needs replacing.
There are upgraded kits to convert a low output older bike to a higher output which is more like stock on 80's models. Mine was originally 22 amp. I went with a kit that gave me the new stator, rotor and regulator at 32 amps. About $250 complete (primary gasket needed).
Let's hope it's just connections!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,481
Likes: 3,677
From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
Johnny C, no disrespect but I am assuming since he posted in the pan section it is probably about a pan...
That being said a 65 Glide is a generator driven system; MoCo didn't do the alternator stator/rotor thing until 1970 models.
That being said a 65 Glide is a generator driven system; MoCo didn't do the alternator stator/rotor thing until 1970 models.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 14
From: Near Frankenmuth, MI
My confusion. There is quite a bit of difference in older recharge systems.
I don't often check the category, and on this one it was my mistake on the type of system this year had. I wasn't even certain if he was talking about the bike his sig name states.
I don't often check the category, and on this one it was my mistake on the type of system this year had. I wasn't even certain if he was talking about the bike his sig name states.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kayakguy
Electrical/Lighting/Alarm
9
Jun 30, 2018 08:06 PM
