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Oct 28, 2008 | 05:34 PM

#11

rbabos

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From: Woodstock, Ont , Can

I just use an aluminum flat bar stock cut to the right length so it engages the teeth and provides anti rotation. You could use mild steel 1/4"x2" flatbar cut to 7 3/8" long as well. Just round off the sharp edges from cutting with a grinder before using it.
Ron

Oct 28, 2008 | 05:46 PM

#12

rbabos

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From: Woodstock, Ont , Can

Quote:

Originally Posted by twilliams

One more thing Ron, thanks so much for taking the time to help me through this.....I have been basically blown off by three dealers and the MOCO over this. I knew about the SE comp sprocket and even mentioned to the last dealer I though it may be a comp problem, if they had suggested the SE sprocket I probably would have just had them do it........now I'm not giving any of these fools my hard earned money. I will get the d@mn thing from chicago hd and do it myself!

If you don't have the service manual, this would be a good time to get one. Best money you will ever spend. While the comp comes with instructions, book is handy for the other areas you will dive into with the install.
Ron

Oct 28, 2008 | 05:49 PM

#13

twilliams

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From: Franklin, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by rbabos

Yes the service manual was one of the first "accessories" I bought for the bike......been studying the whole Drive chapter the last few days.

Thanks again for all your input

Nov 14, 2008 | 11:33 AM

#14

twilliams

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From: Franklin, TN

well I got my SE comp and was able to go for a test ride yesterday, sad to report that it did not fix my issue. oh well back too square one.

Nov 14, 2008 | 03:03 PM

#15

rbabos

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From: Woodstock, Ont , Can

Well, that sucks. I know it's too late now but did you check the chain and sprockets carefully when it was apart. With the new comp, you could have left the spring pack off and spun the unit with the clutch hub. Short of the chain causing some kind of problem with stretch or something and being rpm/load related, I can't come up with a better answer. The only other thing would be some kind of bearing lock up. Again rpm related, could be a bad cage in one of the bearings in the trans, primary bearing, and maybe even the ids if you have one.
I know I've read about this before but can't remember where and what caused it, or for that matter if it was ever solved, but try and locate the article again.
Ron

Nov 14, 2008 | 03:19 PM

#16

twilliams

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From: Franklin, TN

Ron,
I did look over the chain and sprockets briefly and did not see anything obviously wrong. I did not spin it without the spring pack like you suggest. I do have the IDS installed and if I remember when I first put it on I though it amplified this problem. I may take it back off at the next rear tire change and see what happens.
Thanks

Nov 14, 2008 | 04:04 PM

#17

pittguy

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From:

Being that you had bike looked at several times and seem to have an on going issue was alignment ever checked?Engine and final drive?You mentioned the old 10 speed effect.is it the sound that is made or the feeling that the bike isnt quite in whatever gear? How tight is your final drive with your weight on bike and carrying whatever you normally do?Does removing belt guard do anything?

Nov 14, 2008 | 04:47 PM

#18

twilliams

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From: Franklin, TN

Quote:

Originally Posted by pittguy

I never been able to get any of the dealers to go that far, they all say they either don't feel anything or the problem is caused by my rinehart pipes. I have mentioned this too ALL of them. As far as the 10 speed analogy, its a feel not a sound. Last time I checked my final drive tension I set it by the service manual procedure. I have played with it going tighter and looser than spec with no real difference.