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CVO ultra excessive right side heat

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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 06:57 PM
  #1  
Ultra Rider 07's Avatar
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Default CVO ultra excessive right side heat

My first CVO, went from an 07 ultra with a 110 upgrade and Rinehart TD exhaust to this. Talked with the service tech at the dealer where I purchased it from about the heat and what are they doing about it. Well they can do all kind of chit the cheapest being about 1k for a tune. Then if that does not help we could change out the exhaust. A little disappointed that this is a problem on a 37k bike but I guess it's all about upgrade regardless of what you start with. Aside from this one uncomfortable condition it is a great ride.
So what have you done that solved the heat issue.
 
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Old Aug 16, 2012 | 10:06 PM
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LA VIC
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Originally Posted by Ultra Rider 07
My first CVO, went from an 07 ultra with a 110 upgrade and Rinehart TD exhaust to this. Talked with the service tech at the dealer where I purchased it from about the heat and what are they doing about it. Well they can do all kind of chit the cheapest being about 1k for a tune. Then if that does not help we could change out the exhaust. A little disappointed that this is a problem on a 37k bike but I guess it's all about upgrade regardless of what you start with. Aside from this one uncomfortable condition it is a great ride.
So what have you done that solved the heat issue.
The main cause of the heat is the exhaust design change from your 07 to your new CVO. You now have 100% of the rear cylinder exhaust flowing to the right side of the bike. Added to that is the fact that the pipe now loops forward and connects into the collector forward of the transmission. Then throw in the catalyst inside the collector just aft of the O2 sensors and it's the perfect storm for heat. If you have the funds and like the true duals style exhaust that will probably net the best results. The ones I've seen for the new bikes has the rear cylinder exhaust head pipe exiting to the right and angling to the rear just like on your 07. It crosses under the frame and hooks up to the left muffler. So you lose the catalyst and reroute the rear head pipe away from your leg. Most folks, myself included, either gutted the catalyst from the stock head pipe or bought a cat-less after market head pipe. They both give the same result. Obviously gutting the pipe yourself will save you several hundred dollars even if you need to pay someone to do a little welding for you. Because the bike is running a AFR of about 14.6 in closed loop that adds to the heat issue. Adding fuel will cool it down. Lots of options there for sure. Power Commander being the most widely used. Gutting or changing the head pipe will also give your stock CVO mufflers a nice deeper sound. On my current CVO I gutted the head pipe and added Nightrider inline adjustable enrichment devices. Because I have no plan to do any future performance mods I didn't want or need a tuner.I beleive they were the FL-ViED-1O. I set them to a 14.1 AFR. The bike runs cooler, still gets over 40 MPG running on the interstate and sounds much better as well. Including paying someone to do a little welding I spent around $200 all in.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by LA VIC
The main cause of the heat is the exhaust design change from your 07 to your new CVO. You now have 100% of the rear cylinder exhaust flowing to the right side of the bike. Added to that is the fact that the pipe now loops forward and connects into the collector forward of the transmission. Then throw in the catalyst inside the collector just aft of the O2 sensors and it's the perfect storm for heat. If you have the funds and like the true duals style exhaust that will probably net the best results. The ones I've seen for the new bikes has the rear cylinder exhaust head pipe exiting to the right and angling to the rear just like on your 07. It crosses under the frame and hooks up to the left muffler. So you lose the catalyst and reroute the rear head pipe away from your leg. Most folks, myself included, either gutted the catalyst from the stock head pipe or bought a cat-less after market head pipe. They both give the same result. Obviously gutting the pipe yourself will save you several hundred dollars even if you need to pay someone to do a little welding for you. Because the bike is running a AFR of about 14.6 in closed loop that adds to the heat issue. Adding fuel will cool it down. Lots of options there for sure. Power Commander being the most widely used. Gutting or changing the head pipe will also give your stock CVO mufflers a nice deeper sound. On my current CVO I gutted the head pipe and added Nightrider inline adjustable enrichment devices. Because I have no plan to do any future performance mods I didn't want or need a tuner.I beleive they were the FL-ViED-1O. I set them to a 14.1 AFR. The bike runs cooler, still gets over 40 MPG running on the interstate and sounds much better as well. Including paying someone to do a little welding I spent around $200 all in.
Thanks I have heard that gutting the pipe will work also, wondering how that will affect me if I end up with any warranty work needing to be done and they discover the cat is gone. Then if I go ahead and gut the pipe is it necessary to have the bike tuned?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Ultra Rider 07
Thanks I have heard that gutting the pipe will work also, wondering how that will affect me if I end up with any warranty work needing to be done and they discover the cat is gone. Then if I go ahead and gut the pipe is it necessary to have the bike tuned?
Unless removing the cat had caused the failure you were trying to get fixed under warranty it would not be an issue. Hard to imagine any scenario in which removing the cat could cause a related failure. Now add a tuner and that can cause some dealers to balk at troubleshooting engine related performance problems. Leave the intake stock and cut the cat and you should need nothing else. Many people have done it. Unfortunately unless you richen up the AFR it won't make the difference you after. That's why I added the Night rider enrichment devices. Not a tuner just a simple set of adjustable in-line devices that can go as rich as 13.8 AFR. They are super simple to install. I've never set mine any richer than 14.1 because I didn't want to take a hit on fuel economy. It did make a noticeable difference on my bike. Just keep in mine if you keep the stock head pipe even with the cat removed it will always have more heat in the right side compared to your 07. Just the nature of the design and routing.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2012 | 10:29 PM
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I run the Cobra FI2000R-O2 on mine with a 12.1 to 1 ratio which is the best ratio for ignition of the charge and the coolest running.

I get 50 mpg on the 12 RGC CVO with non alcohol gas. Get 52 mpg on the 12 RGC 103 and 50 mpg on the 10 Ultra TC96.

This is with a stage I breather and stock exhaust which helps up low to mid range torque. I run on local roads with a 55 mph in 6th with cruise control on.

Many many tanks at those mpg readings.

Cooler engines run stronger and last longer.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2012 | 11:22 AM
  #6  
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the 110's run hotter than the 103's do period.

I have a 12 model CVO street glide, my buddy has a 103 Ultra limited. There is a huge difference in heat on the two.
I changed the Header to eliminate the cat... Added a PCV with auto tune. The bike runs great. It made a big difference. My wife is good but I still get more than I care about. I had a 07 Ultra with cam upgrades. It ran cooler than my Goldwing did, Fair mpg, around 42 average.
The only way I found is to remove the lower fairings. Lost the speakers but it is really cooler.

dd
 
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Old Aug 20, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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open up exhaust, get a tuner so its not so lean snd will make big differance, i put just slip ons on my dads bike and it helps enough that my mom will ride again, she quit because of the heat
 
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Old Aug 22, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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I ordered a Fullsac x-pipe c today for the 2013 I might get. I does not have the cat.
 
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